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Taylor Love

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Hello,
Here's a few of the old blog posts. I'll re-post them here so they can be moved to the resources section by their original posters. Note: A lot of these look more like forum posts than blog entries to me.
 
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Taylor Love

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arturofitz;245117 said:
I have a steam boiler I want to put another zone in my basement .I put a ciculating pump on The pex that I bought has an oxygen barrier and is for base board heat HOWEVER I just noticed that it is rated for 180F and I am sure that my steam boiler puts the water hotter than that IS there a PEX rated for steam???
I HAVE LEAKS POPPING UP IN THE PEX, HAVE THERE BEEN ANY CALLBACKS ON PEX?
korkiley;248732 said:
My Moen shower faucet was leaking and I followed the instructions here and easily repaired it. At first, I was confused by the black plastic removal tool that came with my genuine replacement cylinder. Since the instructions didn't describe the part, I thought it was part of the cylinder and, until I realized it's purpose and used it to turn the old cylinder a bit (I guess it just loosens things up a bit because there are no threaded parts.) I was unable to remove the old cylinder. But once I turned the cylinder a bit, I screwed the faucet handle back on and easily pulled the cylinder out.

OK. That is all common, but here comes the interesting part. I live in a condo and have been plagued by a vibration in the cold water supply line (I feel/hear the vibration in the pipe that supplies the water heater) for two or three years. It can happen when you turn on a faucet (about any faucet in the place) or it can happen in the middle of the night when we aren't using the water at all. I have been very suspicious of a relationship with the use of water in the neighboring condo.

My Moen faucet began leaking two days ago when I was replacing a washer in the outside sill cock. I had opened all of the faucets to drain the pipes. When I had finished my washer replacement I first turned the main shutoff back on and then proceeded to turn off all the faucets beginning in the upstairs bathroom. But when I tried to turn off the Moen shower faucet in the upstairs bathroom, the faucet would not shut off. I kept turning it back and forth and pushing in and out and eventually I was able to push it in again. This was interesting because I suddenly remembered that the same thing had happened a few years ago and I now wondered if this could be related to the vibrating pipe, and maybe it had all started a few years ago after this incident.

But back to the present--I have no idea what happened this time, but for a peaceful day after this, the vibration seemed to be gone. However, yesterday morning I discovered that the Moen faucet that had stuck was leaking, and that is what brought me to find this excellent thread and easily repair the problem. The sad news is that the pipe vibration is back--but there is more!

I was showing my wife the old cylinder and how it worked. While doing so, I noticed some white material in the water inlet area and after prying and tugging a bit, I extracted a piece of plastic. I knew immediately what it was!

About two years ago and after the vibration had plagued us for about a year, we replaced our water heater. When the plumber disassembled the hot water outlet pipe, he discovered several pieces of white plastic jambed in the copper pipe. He determined that the white plastic cold water inlet tube (or hot water outlet tube--I forget which) had disintegrated and gotten forced out into the hot water line. I can now see that pieces of this tube must been forced much further from the source and perhaps that was causing the vibration somehow.

Perhaps I shouldn't have gone into all this detail with this problem in this thread but I couldn't resist because of the chain of events and the possible cause and effect. Hopefully there might be an enthusiastic plumbing sleuth that will read this and shed some light on what is threatening to become a cold case!

Kor Kiley


You can purchase a moen removal tool for under $20...they work fine


I didn't know the story continued..sorry...
Very interesting.
Try to isolate which faucet is being used when the noise is noticed? Since you turned the water off and worked on the outside faucet, it's possible that a small piece of rubber from the moen cartridge became dislodged when you opened the faucets with the water off, and then found someplace to go when the water was turned back on. If it's on the cold line to a faucet, turn the shut off to that faucet off and take the supply tube lose from the valve and check there...or see if all the shut off valves are turning all the way off when you close them...if not I'd turn water off at (meter) and check 'that' shut off valve that wouldn't shut off...it's a starting point...


The reason I think the rubber came from the moen cartridge is because you were able to turn the cartridge with the 'black' pc that came with the new cartridge but didn't actually remove and replace the cartridge, right? by turning the 'old' cartridge, you may have cut a small chunk off of it..this would also explain why the shower now 'leaks' drips?...hope this helps...


ok...I must be getting old...
You worked on your outside faucet first, then the problem began !!!
Sorry...
Sounds like maybe a chunk of rubber came free from the sillcock stem???
Geeze...good luck


If you can isolate where the noise is coming from, you will have to bleed that line somehow...if the noise is heard during the night when knowone is using any water then it may be wise to check the toilets first? if a flapper is not sealing, letting water in the tank run out, making the ballcock operate calling for water..this may explain that portion of the problem...but the moen shower faucet was difficult to turn off heh?...A piece of the washer could be hung up in the valve?..ok, i'm dodne...good luck...
Are well pumps sold with warranties? Mine has been in use less than 3 years, seems like an awfully short lifetime for something so expensive.
I replaced my pump last year and now have to replace my pressure tank.My pump has a pressure switch on it do I need to install a pressure on my tank or will the closed system shot my pump off?
Thanks
Becka;249197 said:
Curently have a 18-20 year old furnace . Replace heatpump with new Carrier 3-1/2 ton (bigger than what was there), 15 Seer last year. I "thank God" got the maintenance contract on both the furnance and Heatpump. The service people have been to my house 7 plus times for NO HEAT calls since Christmas Day! Everything from door swtich, control panel, ignitor, etc. etc.

I have Propane GAS backup (when temperature drops below 40 degreees).

My house is a little over 2,500 sq. feet, 275 yards from the Chesapeake Bay (on sand of course) no basement, crawl space with all pipe underneath the house.

The current furnace is 100,000 BTU and I am replacing it with the Carrier Infinity Gas furnace. Which should I get 100,000 or 80,000 BTU? The salesman told me either one would work.

I have has for a load survey.

What do you think!

Thanks so much
Becka;)
Hi,I hope someone can help me with this unusual problem. I had a water softener that that was not working and it was only 3 years old. We (my husband and I) decided to replace it and when our friend who is a plumber took out the discharge drain hose, he found it was shoved down the drain so far it was backwashing sewer water. The smell was horrible, My fear is my 2 kids age 18 and 19 have not been feeling well and have had unexplained weight loss. Could the sewer water have backed all the way up to the water softener and contaminated our water that we drink and bathe and wash our clothes in. If so could my kids and my husband and I have parasite infections or bacterial infections and not know. How do you test for this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Plumbermurrieta;249609 said:
Each tool we use has a specific purpose for which it is best suited. Leak detection is no longer an art but a process of elimination.
Our handpicked, experienced, and well respected plumbers all go through one-on-one personal training, sometimes with the manufacturers of our equipment. Who better to rely on than a company full of the top craftsmen of the trade.

Our leak detection process typically involves the following steps:

Visual Inspection - With our specialized training and years of experience, a simple walk through inspection of the property allows us to identify most or all of the plumbing problems. The visual inspection often tells us how best to proceed.

Pressure Testing - Is the water pressure too high or too low? This tells us if there is a leak within the pressurized system and if it is the hot or cold side of the system.

Moisture Probing and Sensors - Informs us if moisture is present in places it shouldn't be and how much moisture is present. This often helps us to determine its source.

Fibre Optic Bore Scope - Provides a visual inspection within the walls and between floors without opening them.

Thermal Laser - Measures heat through concrete slabs or other surfaces.

Thermal Camera - Gives a good visual inspection without having to open walls.

Pinpoint Audio Location

Electronic Pipe Location

While other plumbing companies are still cutting holes in the walls or tearing up the floor to figure out what the problem might be, Master Plumbing and Leak Detection will have accurately located any plumbing failure imagineable without ever cutting or drilling a hole.
 

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Plumbermurrieta;249609 said:
Each tool we use has a specific purpose for which it is best suited. Leak detection is no longer an art but a process of elimination.
Our handpicked, experienced, and well respected plumbers all go through one-on-one personal training, sometimes with the manufacturers of our equipment. Who better to rely on than a company full of the top craftsmen of the trade.

Our leak detection process typically involves the following steps:

Visual Inspection - With our specialized training and years of experience, a simple walk through inspection of the property allows us to identify most or all of the plumbing problems. The visual inspection often tells us how best to proceed.

Pressure Testing - Is the water pressure too high or too low? This tells us if there is a leak within the pressurized system and if it is the hot or cold side of the system.

Moisture Probing and Sensors - Informs us if moisture is present in places it shouldn't be and how much moisture is present. This often helps us to determine its source.

Fibre Optic Bore Scope - Provides a visual inspection within the walls and between floors without opening them.

Thermal Laser - Measures heat through concrete slabs or other surfaces.

Thermal Camera - Gives a good visual inspection without having to open walls.

Pinpoint Audio Location

Electronic Pipe Location

While other plumbing companies are still cutting holes in the walls or tearing up the floor to figure out what the problem might be, Master Plumbing and Leak Detection will have accurately located any plumbing failure imagineable without ever cutting or drilling a hole.
Plumbermurrieta;249625 said:
SOLAR HEATING Solar heating is feasible today. The average American household consumes between 1000 and 2000 gallons of number two fuel oil per year. Efficient use of the sun’s energy could easily cut this consumption in half or eliminate it entirely. The heating of water is perhaps the easiest, most cost effective solar project a person can get involved with.
Plumbermurrieta;249631 said:
Possible Repairs

* Place bucket under overflow pipe. Open and flush T&P valve clear of debris. If leak remains from valve, replace valve.
* Reduce thermostat setting to prevent tank overheating and opening T&P relief valve.
* Inspect bottom of tank by looking through combustion chamber. If water marks or heavy rusting is noticed or if water is noticed setting in combustion chamber bottom, then the water heater needs to be replaced.
Plumbermurrieta;249632 said:
-Rigid pipe, usually installed in new homes, makes a neater installation, but it is much more difficult to install than soft, flexible copper pipe.
-Flexible copper pipe is best for repair work since it can be run around obstacles without connections or cuts.
-Copper pipe is available in three basic types: Type M is thin-walled, Type L is medium-walled and Type K is thick-walled. In most cases, Type L is good for home use.
Plumbermurrieta;249633 said:
Storage tank water heaters: Hot tips for a better buy

You probably don’t think much about your water heater until a cold shower or a telltale puddle suggests that you need a new one--now. How to choose? Most look alike on the outside. But a look inside tells a very different story.

Sawing open 18 gas and electric models confirmed that paying a little more for a longer warranty typically buys you a better water heater. Several smart steps can also help you save money, avoid installation hassles, and get enough hot water, even on busy mornings.
Plumbermurrieta;249635 said:
Acid can be pumped through the coil to flush out mineral deposits. If the flow has not been significantly this usually works well. This requires a specialized pump and is not a DIY project.
Plumbermurrieta;249638 said:
Boilers in general, have a long, reliable, and highly efficient service life. When combined with an Indirect Water Heater, are an EXCELLENT source of hot water for household use.
 

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Plumbermurrieta;249641 said:
The biggest challenge in installing a new bathtub is getting the tub in and out of the bathroom where it will be installed. This may require opening up a wall, which adds a fair bit of complexity to this task.
Before you install a new bathtub the first thing you will need to do is remove the old one. Your old bathtub is probably located between two walls with the plumbing work located on one of these walls. In most cases you will be able to simply disconnect the plumping and pull the tub straight out once you break the caulking seal. In a few cases you will need to remove the tub directly through the wall itself because of lack of room to maneuver the tub in the bathroom.
Plumbermurrieta;249646 said:
Removing three -shower fixtures is relatively simple. The tools that you will need are basic hand tools. Once you have removed the first handle, the other two handles will come off exactly the same way as the first one did. You should be able to remove all three handles in less than 15 minutes.

-Remove the indicator caps. There is a plastic cap in the center of each fixture or handle. The indicators will be C for cold, H for hot and an arrow that indicates direction for either tub or shower function. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry under the edge of the cap. The caps will pop out. They are only held in place by metal retainer clips.
-Use your Philips head screwdriver to remove the screws from the center of the handles. The screws hold the handles to the valves. Pull out on the handles, and they will slide off. Behind each handle is a metal escutcheon ring. Twist the rings counterclockwise to remove them.
-Remove the metal cover plates. Behind the escutcheon ring is a cover plate. These are usually held on by screws. Use your Philips head screwdriver to remove the screws from the cover plates. Take the cover plates off.
-Use a very small screwdriver or an Allen wrench to remove the handles if your fixtures have set screws on the underneath side of the handle much like a towel bar. Some newer fixtures will not have indicator caps on them and, therefore, will not have a screw securing the handle to the valve. The escutcheon rings and the cover plates will come off the same as indicated in Step Three.
Plumbermurrieta;249652 said:
Pipes required include the hot and cold supply lines and a pipe leading to a shower head. A mixing valve and shower head are also needed. Air chambers may be required.

Bath/shower fixtures also rate low in fixture units and are often positioned on branch drains and wet or back vented as are the sinks. Both shower stalls and tubs enter the stack at floor level or below because of the position of the floor drain trap. The faucet and shower head assembly require an open wall for installation. Remember bathtubs and shower stalls may require support framing. A bathtub filled with water is extremely heavy, so check building codes and framing support before installing the tub. The minimum floor area required for a shower stall is 1,024 square inches, and you should allow 24 inches from the stall itself to any other fixture or wall.

1. Install all piping before installing the tub itself.
2. Lower the tub into place so that the continuous flange fits against the wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. Anchor the tub to the enclosure with nails or screws inserted through the flanges into the studs.
3. Assemble the drain connections by connecting the tub overflow with the tub drain ABOVE the trap, not beyond it. The trap will have a compression fitting that screws over the arm of the overflow assembly.
4. Hot and cold water lines are run to the tub/shower mixing valve where they are attached, usually by, sweating these directly into the hot and cold ports of the mixing valve.
5. Run a pipe up the wall for the shower head. On the top of this pipe, sweat on a brass female threaded winged fitting that is nailed or screwed into a framing support.
6. Extend a piece of 1/2" pipe, according to the manufacturer's instructions, for the tub spout. Sweat on a male threaded fitting at the end of the pipe or use a brass nipple of the proper length and a 1/2" cap.
7. At this time you will need to have your rough plumbing inspected.
8. Restore water pressure and check the drain connection and the supply pipes for any leaks.
9. Replace the wall with moisture resistant drywall as a base for your wall covering. Seal joints between the wall and your new tub with silicone caulk as protection against water seepage.
10. Install the Spout, handles and shower head. The shower head screws onto the shower arm stub out. Whether installing a new shower head or replacing an old one, always clean the pipe threads and apply new pipe joint compound, PTFE tape or both to prevent leaks.
Plumbermurrieta;249654 said:
Before you even start ripping apart countertops or ordering a new vanity you must consider your options when it comes to vessel sinks. First and likely the most important is what material, style, color and shape. These items are important because it will allow you to determine the necessary height of the countertop, mounting method and countertop material. Something I am often asked is, "What is the ideal height of a bathroom vanity for a vessel sink?". My answer is usually, "personal preference", but to come to a decision on height you have to consider the height of most of the people who will be using the sink. Small children and short adults will find it uncomfortable if not impossible to use if the sink is to high, and tall people will have to bend over if the sink is to low.

Most bathroom cabinetry for regular under mount sinks are between 30 and 32 inches, plus the countertop. So if you have to decide if it is ok to bring the total height to over 36 inches (since most vessels are between 5 and 6" tall) or if you want to have a more realistic 30-32" total height. You may be in a situation where you do not have a choice, either you want to use the existing cabinetry you have or the cabinet you want only comes in a standard height. In this case you may want to consider recessing your vessel sink to reduce the overall height, which brings us to the two main ways vessel sinks are mounted.

There are essentially two main ways to mount a vessel sink, but to be more specific, there are two main ways to mount a bowl shaped or cone shaped vessel sink with a smooth outer surface that is NOT MADE OF GLASS. If you have a glass sink or square / rectangular / zen / oval sink then you are basically "stuck" with the above counter mounting method. The other method, which is effectively known as "recessing" allows you to lower the sink partially into the cabinet so only a fraction of the sink is above countertop level. This method requires that your sink be a non-translucent material and that the exterior of the sink be very smooth and even the whole way around in order to prevent gapping. The recessed method of mounting also allows for greater stability since the bowl shaped vessel sink is supported all the way around by the countertop, vs. being supported by a mounting ring, the weight of the sink, adhesive and the drain itself (or a combination of these) in the "above counter" method.
 

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Plumbermurrieta;249655 said:
The pipes are sweated into the base of the unit. What you need to do is get all the plastic off of it, and heat the base up with a torch. You should be able to pull them out with a pair of pliers. Once you have them out just clean up the remaining ends, and flux them good. Reinsert them under heat, and then apply more solder.

They will be a little shorter, but that only requires longer flex hoses, and not a new unit. If they are too short to put back in as is then you will need to remove the threaded ends also and solder in a new piece of copper tubing. This is available at most hardware stores, and hobby shops that sell R/C airplanes.
Plumbermurrieta;249656 said:
Shower fixtures are one of those things that we see every day and tell ourselves that we really need to replace sometime soon. Then as soon as we are out of the shower and on to other things we forget about them.
-Take the old fixtures off. Hot and cold water handles can be removed by unscrewing a set screw on the bottom of the handle and gently wiggling them off. The trim for the handles will just come off when pulled. If there is any old caulk holding the trim on, you may want to go around the outside with a utility knife and separate the caulk from the wall. The shower head can be removed by unscrewing it from the pipe coming in from the wall.
-Clean the stems and shower head pipe threads with a good household cleaner. Allow them to dry and place some Teflon tape around the threads from the shower head pipe.
-Install the new shower head by screwing it onto the pipe and adjusting for proper positioning. Install the new hot and cold water handles by placing on the new trim pieces and then pushing the knobs on gently and screwing in the set screw at the bottom.
Plumbermurrieta;249658 said:
•First choose your sink, thenhire a plumber to rough in a new waste pipe. "More often than not, the exisiting waste pipe is too low to install the trap, which fits inside the pedestal," Richard says.
•While the wall is open, install blocking, a horizontal 2x that's screwed between the studs at basin height, beneath the palster or drywall. Blocking provides a solid anchor for the lag screws holding the sink against the wall.
•Sinks do not come with fasteners. Have lag screws and washers on hand before undertaking this project.
•Some steps require four hands. If you try to do everything by yourself, you may see hundreds of dollars' worth of porcelain topple and smash to the floor.


pedestal 'bathtub' ? hmmm... ???
Can recirculation pumps go bad? If so how long do they generally last? I ask because there is hot water coming out of cold water faucet (there are seperate faucets for hot and cold) and I am trying to see what the solution would be. Could the check valve go bad?


Circulation pumps go bad all the time BUT, you are getting hot water circulating into your cold water, right? This tells me that there is a good chance the pump is working ? Maybe you answered your own question though, if you think about it ???
The check valve could be bad? Hey, I'd have to see how this was plumbed but if you think the problem is related to the recirc line or pump, do this for a quick answer...grab the water heater recirc line then have someone else turn the cold water on in a bath tub or lav faucet..something that draws cold water...even if the just flush a toilet while your holding the line...if the line gets hotter, it's your check valve more than likely...hey its a starting point...hope this helps...
Agron;249986 said:
I am getting a quote together to install a Rinnia 6.3 natural gas outdoor unit I can get it for about 700 I have installed about 10 of these for my former company. I am now running a small company. i need to get my price together to potentially get a few jobs doing these. I know i can complete the job in a day in most situations. My former company would charge $2500 dollars for everything. Im thinking that is a little high and want to go lower since i get a pretty good deal on the heaters. I would appreciate any ball park figures in you area im in raleigh/durham nc
 

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Will the TOTO Drake flush better than a higher flow 1988 toilet (cheap American Stantard, I think)?
Also my upstairs toilet has never flushed as good as the identical down stairs unit. Would reducing the 3" drain
to 2 & 1/2" just below the toilet make it flush better by giving it more siphoning power?
Thanks


Good rule of thumb, never reduce in the direction of flow, lol. Seriously, when the first low consumption toilets hit the market they were a 'work in progress'...the government put a mandate, the mfg's did their best but the first few years of mfg these things caused a lot of headaches. In the last couple years they have begun making a 'class 5' flush, a bigger trap on the toilet, these things work great, variety of mfgs but generally any class 5 flush toilet is gonna solve your problem...don't decrease in direction of flow !!!
Anyone know where I can order a 2 inch bathtub drain? A 1 1/2 inch will barely, fit but doesn't cover up the rust from the old 2 inch drain. Been having trouble finding one online.


Tubs are always made to accomadate an 1 1/2 drain, showers 2"...when it leaves the waste and overflow (1 1/2"), you can increase to 2" and follow up with a 2"trap, etc...but coming from the tub itself, I've never seen a 2" tub drain ??? 1 1/2" pipe measures around 2" ya know ...good luck


go to a plumbing supply house that sells to the plumbing trade. Usually the counter guys will have a ready answer. The older tubs (20 years ago or so) used these type drains.


The drain trim piece that your talking about has to 'mate' with the (threaded) shoe that is already in place under the tub (assuming your not changing the whole waste and overflow?) You need to take it with you to a supply house to make sure that you are getting a new one with the correct thread size, 1 5/8 or 1 1/4 I believe are available, some other odd ball thread was used in older style tub drains but all are 1 1/2 tubular, with the exception of some older ones which had a 1 1/2 MIP thread that threaded into a FIP ftg...
If your buying the whole new drain it will of course be mated. You can check to see if you can find a bigger flanged type but Probably Your best bet is to get a brush and a good cleaner and clean the old rust off. Most tub drain flange pieces are real close to the same O.D....Good luck.
Hi guys
im a carpenter and yesterday i was pining down bottom plates in a bathroom, i drilled trough the 2x6 with a hammer drill into the newer concrete which was softer than the 2x6 and realized i made a rookie mistake. the new plumbing was run right under the 2x6, now im stressing out because i dont know for sure if i would of even felt the pipe when i was drilling. what im thinking is that i would of felt the resistance seeing as the plumbing pipe is denser than the 2x6 and the concrete was softer than the 2x6. when i drilled through the 2x6 and into the concrete the drill bit went trough the concrete like butter because of how fresh it was. i just need to hear some thoughts on this before i go into work tomorrow and for me to decide if i should tell my boss now and risk my raise or wait and see what happens.

Thanks
:confused:


Accidents happen. That being said, are your sure you hit it? Was the water line live? If it's in a basement I am thinking maybe they are just now finishing the basement, meaning that it's possible, probable that the line is valved off somewhere? determine whether the water line is active then you can determine real quickly whether or not you damaged it. Make sure that the line, or valve that feeds this line is open and active. If you don't see anything getting wet, this is a good sign but your not completely out of the woods yet. If you know that water is going into that line, tell everyone in the house to NOT use any water, NO flushing of toilets, no water usage for 15 mins to a half hour, then after you have determined no water is going anywhere, turn the meter off...wait for the 15 mins or so, then turn the water on...if you hear a gush of water going through the meter (provided no body flushed a toilet or opened a valve), you've got problems...
I am planning on installing a Zoeller sump pump. However, bedrock is only 4.5 inches below slab. What model pump & what switch would be best. p.s. am retired electrician, not plumber so any additional info would be appreciated.


I have installed zoeller and hydromatic, as well as a dozen other brands of sump pumps in the past 30 years. I was always of the opinion that the 2 mentioned were the most reliable with a tethered mercury switch preferred, some prefer the diaphram type, consumer division at either mfg can give you figures on reliabilty. If the merc switch isn't tethered or doesn't ride on a rod, be sure to tether it correctly and thoroughly so that it's free to move without tangling...
Glentronics has a newer pump that is now my number 1 choice for reliabilty and overall satisfaction. It's quieter, has more power and comes equiped with a fantastic duel switch . If for any reason the first switch fails, the second one operates the pump, provided that the power is on of course. At this time an alarm (9v battery) will sound telling you that the first switch failed. Check it out...Price may even be less than zoeller or hydromatic?Glentronics is the company that has been making the 'watchdog' back-up system, which is the top back-up system around, for years. Good luck.
The seller of my house failed to complete the range venting and completely forgot to install a dryer vent. Due to the construction of the house and location, the best place for both is through the roof. The seller has agreed to fix and has suggested joining both into same pipe to result in only one hole/roof termination. My gut tells me bad idea...lint and grease not a good combination. Is my gut right or is combining OK?


Your gut instinct is correct. The 2 vents need to be independant.
 

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I HAVE A TOTO AQUIA FLUSH{DUAL} CST414M I NEED TO MOVE IT FORWARD SO I CAN TILE BEHIND IT.NEED TO KNOW THE OFFSET FLANGE TO BUY AND THE CORRECT SIZE
We have greasy black stuff that makes the hot water have a black tent to it and the stuff sticks to the tub... it's in both tubs but not the showers... I couldn't take a bath if I wanted to... It does not happen in the showers... it is very hard to clean and we thought it was the hot water heater... we replace the hot water heater that cost $300 .and still have the same problem... we replace the anode rod and didn't help a bit... this is so frustrating! Does anyone know what this is? OH and this only happens to the hot water... cold water is fine... very strange! I need help!
I have an areation type septic system. My grey water tank is smelling badly and I have enough chlorine tabs in the despening tube. Is there anything on the market that I can dump like algecide to clear up the water and remove the smell. Would a couple of gallons of bleach do it?
I installed an AS Champion 4 about 6 months ago and has worked just fine until a day ago. The toilet bowl will fill, but it will no longer power flush. I have to wait an hour for the water level to lower. It will not respond to plunging. Anyone have an idear?:confused:


Sounds like a plugged bowl.
Try a plunger or a closet auger.

Or it could even be a main line backup.
Wondering with setting up a new MOEN shower kit, why water comes out of the shower head when the tap is turned on. This is a 1 handle valve system. It is rather annoying. Does this mean the stem is faulty?
Does anyone have any info or input on the toto eco drake toilet? Any info on replacing a toilet when the roughin is not 12", but only 11" 1/8? Help!:confused:


Are you getting the rough in measurement off off the actual wall or the trim board?
The 12" rough toilet should mount just fine with the 11" rough in...the tank may end up tight to the wall but you should be fine mounting it. To be on the safe side mount the bowl first, but don't set the bolts (tighten down) until the tanks is mounted just in case you move the bowl 1 1/4" or so...good luck.


oops meant 1/4"...not 1 1/4...thats asking a lot...but 1/4" is pretty safe, as far as adjusting on the flange...hope this is clear...
 

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can anyone help, my fleck 5600 water softener gets stuck between cycles and will stay there for hours and not move until i turn it.i have checked the timer when it is out or not engaged in the gears and it keeps good time,but when it is back in place and in regen mode the dial tries to move but cant and then it freezes the timer.i cleaned up all the seals ,o rings... etc in the valve and the dial turns nice and smooth with not much effort ...could it be the timer or what!please help.


The problem may be a 'stiff' brine valve causing the motor clutch to slip.


thanks gary i will take a look at the valve
friends:

Im looking for a supplier of antifreeze valve, can you help me?
best regars
Leon
Terry;255383 said:
Jim is right, in the effort to save a few bucks, the homeowner gets a dash of rusty water everytime he runs the tub.
Pull the spout and replace the galvanized nipple with a brass one.

We always carry brass in our trucks.
That kind of thing has always bugged the heck out of me.
For a few bucks, in a job that was sold for thousands.
Dooh!


MY prob TOO, but my fixtures were just replaced, & i still have the prob HELP
I recently bought a house that was built in 1961. The house has "PINK" Case 3000 wall hung toilets. What product will be the best to replace them without too much hassle or money? I don't mind replacing with wall hung....what is compatable???
Bruce Broderick;259167 said:
Recently I converted all (14) of the toilets in a local Bed and Breakfast to the One2flush dual flush converter. The results were as I knew they would be. Every toilet that I converted operated well in both the half flush and the full flush. The types of toilets that were converted were American Standard 1.6, Kohler 1.6, Eljer 1.6, Eljer 3.5 and Mansfield 3.5. In all cases the half (or short flush) had a decent swirl and bowl evacuation with less than 1 gallon in the 1.6 models and 1 to 1.2 gallons in the 3.5 models.
There were two toilets that I chose not to convert. First was a Hilo HMAS wall mount from the early 20th century (8' tall) and the second was a 1950's Standard modified to work as a Hi Lo type toilet. The tank was elevated to about 7'. At first I thought this would be a good example of how even old units like this would work well with a dual flush conversion. I proceeded to draw up plans for a modified twin chain handle that would compliment the aesthetics of the two different bath rooms. Next I went to look inside the tanks to see if I would have to do any special internal modifications to get the One2flush to work. I found that the only modification I would have to make was to adapt the 1 1/2" outlet on the Hi Lo to a 2" to work with the One2flush. Easy enough to do. Then I looked at the reality of the situation. There was only a little over 1.5 gallons of water in the tank. I test flushed both of them and saw that they both operated perfectly and probably better than most new dual flush toilets. I was in a quandary as to whether or not to try and improve on some 100 year old technology that worked so good. I opted to not convert the Hi Lo toilets, because it would be a waste of time and energy and would probably not improve the function of such a good design.
My point here is gravity. And the notion that a six gallon American Standard won't work well with a One2flush. If the tank level on the American Standard is kept high, there will be enough water force to start the siphon action with a reduced amount of water. The best we have gotten on this type of toilet is 1.2 gallons on the half flush and the full flush at about 2.5 The only toilet that I have encountered where an over sized bowl is an issue was an old Universal Rundle where the tank was also very low. It didn't flush very good no matter what you did to it. I think the only solution for that toilet is a sledge hammer.

The One2flush works, and works well.
Ray Ball;259417 said:
My plummer installed BrassCraft 1/4 turn water stops, G2 series, in our ensuite bathroom.
Five months later, the hot water stop blew apart and flowed about a day causing about $70,000
damages. If there were threads in the water stop, they were all stripped off.
I understand there has been a problem with these G2 series, and wonder if there is any legal recourse.
I want to remove my bathtub and replace it with a shower base that I can tile. The shower walls and the base itself. My bathtub measures 57 3/8" X 31". The closest I can find is 60" X 32" inch bases. Does anyone make custom size bases or do I need to increase the size of my wall opening?

Walt
 

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I have several Kohler Model K3402PB low boy toilets that I want to exchange for another standar or regular height brand such as American Standard etc. Can someone recommend something that has the same base configuration as my K3402PB.

I do not want to have to recarpet or retile and a one for one exchange would be great.

Thanks
I need a little understanding why my ceiling fan is running SO slow, PLEASE! I have a ceiling fan with lights attached to it. The lights are are on a seperate switch and that switch is a slide dimmer switch. The fan is on a regular 120 switch. When the fan starts up it starts slow and steadily gets to its max speed. It does have 3 different speeds. Each speed is different, but still extremely slow (50, 100, 150 RPM respectively) estimate of course, but not far of. I'm just trying to understand what it could be. It has done this ever since we got it. I'm pretty sure its wired correctly. I don't know how it couldn't be. Wouldn't it not work at all if it was miswired? Meaning the lights wouldn't work, the speeds wouldn't change? Thanks
I have a 20 year old American Standard shower diverter. Last time it leaked I removed it and replaced an O ring and the problem was solved. This time no such luck. I removed the diverter from my other bathroom and it works fine in the leaky bathroom. I even tried the O ring from the other diverter and the leaky diverter still leaks. Is there something else that I can do to this diverter besides changing the O ring? Can anyone tell me the model from the picture?? I was able to order a new one a couple of years ago that also works fine but they said they could no longer get chrome. I am using it right now but it does not match. I would like to repair this one or try to find one in chrome.
I have a problem with my toilet and tub yet I do not have issues with my sinks in the bathroom or in the kitchen.
I have only one bathroom which was working for 4 months after a handyman replaced the cast iron pipes with ABS.
I went down the crawl space and saw that he forgot to put a vent for the toilet. There is one for the tub and a seperate for the double sinks.
I snake the toilet pipes after taking the toilet out and I still could see the water inches below the floor. If the main problem was the vent, then I would expect for the water to run down after the removal of the toilet which it did not. I am confused because eventhough the tub and toilet are out of order, the sinks (down stream) are working fine while the toilet pipe upstream is filled with water. Can anybody help me understand the problem.
I know that I should have a vent for the toilet and I will add a 2" vent this weekend but i am affraid that the problem of the toilet and tub not working will not go away.
thanks,
victor
babifav;260966 said:
Hi Folks,

I have a huge problem know and I'd like some advice and suggestions. I remodeled the bathroom and since they install a new Delta system shower ( shower head and handler) I have problem with my water temperature.

Out of the blue the water that is on cold turns hot. My contractor took a look and told me that the installation is correct, but its not all the time that the water turns hot and that happens a few times but not all the time. So, its very difficult to diagnostic, every time that he came over the water was normal.

After the bathroom was done I had another problem, the shower water will not turn off, I replace the shower cartridge a few times and didn't fixed. I am waiting Delta send me a new original cartridge to check if we fix the problem. But the now I am worry about the water temperature if that could mess up something.

So, please give me a light and I appreciated every answer
babifav;260920 said:
I recently remodeled the bathroom. After 02 days using the new shower, I got my first problem. The water keeps running even when its off, but don't leaking... running like its on.

So, I called a plumber and he came over and bought a replacement cartridge, the blue and white from Delta and no fix. I called my contractor and he came over and he did the same process and nothing. So, I call Delta and they are sending me a new cartridge.

My contractor thinks that we may have to change all the unit that means take the tile off and replace with a new shower system. The only problem is that may cost a big buck for me, because he says that is manufacture problem and I may try to get the money from Delta's warrant.

So, I would like to have some advice from you guys. I main problem is turning on the water runs if I turn off the water keeps running from the shower head.
STRANGE ODOR FROM DRAINS - NEED HELP!!

Hi - I need some help figuring out a strange odor from all of our drains in our house. We moved into the house 2 months ago and have noticed the smell ever since moving in. The smell is like a rubber/onion/body odor smell....... All 4 toilets have this smell and when I turn on any sink, shower or bathtub, the drains smell. It's not the water, but each drain - I think, and each toilet...... It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold water when I'm running the water. The washing machine has the same smell.

We did some remodeling and had all 4 toilets changed.

I have been reading quite a bit on this topic. I found a similar problem with someone else on your blog - "heidi" but her problem was a sewer smell - mine is not that, but a onion, rubbery, plastic smell. Do you think the plumbers could have done something incorrectly when installing the toilets, and thus the smell is going to each drain? I have no idea what to do....... thanks so much!
 

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Is it possible to water your lawn with a regular sprikler head from your sump pump discharge?
Do they make an overflow plate wider than 3 1/4 "?
Tyler Cook;262326 said:
Hello All,
I just took on a shallow well project and got it running. But Im having a problem with maintaining pressure when I run morea than one sprinkler head. The nuts and bolts:

I have a 3/4 HP pump (pressure set to 30/50)
A 8 Gallon Bladder tank (psi at 27-28)
Static water is a 12ft
1 1/4 Well tip with 4ft screen is at 26ft reduced to a 1 draw line going up to pump
This pump will run all day at 43 psi on one sprnikler head but when I turn a second one on it slowly starts to lose pressure and it eventually drops down to 0.
When i turn my valve off it will build back up to cut off (50psi)
I cheked my GPM and its at 6.
Can I increase production and maintain good pressure buy jetting a second well and tie them in togather?

Any suggestins would be appreciated.. THANKS
kramsey42;264199 said:
how do I clean the screen in my shallow well?
I have a 340 foot deep well with a 1 hp red jacket submersible pump newly installed in 300 foot down. Originally, there was 5 hp myers submersible pump placed 320 foot down, however, this was supplying several homes- this pump no longer works. This well is on my property and all that was using this pump have dug their own well. I had a well guy come out to tell me what size pump I would need to supply only my home. He said a 1 hp pump should be sufficient so I bought a red jacket 1 hp pump. This pump was set 300 foot down into the 340 foot well and new electric was run to service just my home (it was originally on a separate electric pole just for the pump). All new lines were ran through the well to the holding tank and all new electrically wire were placed.

Once electric was connected, we tested the pump to check the pressure in the house. The pressure was good. After one evening of use- the next morning we had good pressure and it gradually sloped off to almost nothing!!!! It seems to have a lot of air in lines and spit and sputters til it is to a drizzle....

I've checked the lines under the house for a leak and found nothing. The holding tank is registering 100 psi but yet I have no pressure in the house.

What can be the issue???

Thanks for in advance for any answers or solutions to my problem....

Garry in TN
Mid Michigan girl;264719 said:
I have six zone sprinkling system that is fed through our small lake that we live on. The sprinkler system was installed with the previous owner. In the summer our lake has a large machine that cuts the weeds down in our lake.

One day when we replaced a head on one of the sprinklers, we tested that zone and three zones came on at one time. I called Toro and they advised me to unplug the system for a half hour and it should reset itself. I did that, the same thing happened. They advised me to purchase a new control box. The box was probably 20 years old. So I replaced that and to no avail, the same thing happened.

Then I noticed my filter in the lake was turned over. In the midst of cutting the weeds, the cutter came to close, hit my filter and damaged it. So the problem with my zones came into play after the damage was done to my filter.

I have no knowledge of the sprinkler system and how it works. What effects could this water do to my system without the filtering? Could it have messed up my zones from coming on one at a time? Before this it worked fine.

Can someone help me with my problem? The city is coming out today to look at the damage.


I would look at your irrigation valves, and diaphragm(s). If the filter was damaged, foreign material could have bypassed the filter and get caught up in your valves. When the diaphragm tries to close at the end of the zone cycle, foreign materiel could have been trapped and not allow the diaphragm to close properly, or seal tight. When one valve tries to open, the others still might be unsealed and allow water to flow.

Material could also have damaged the diaphragm(s)

If this is the case the valves should be able to be cleaned or repaired.

Normally, with an irrigation system without a pump, water would be seeping from the heads (with a damaged or dirty diaphragm). When you have an irrigation system with a pump, the pump shuts off at the end of the irrigation cycle, and there is not a continued flow of water behind the valve to flow and seep to the heads.

Mick
I have a shallow well that fills up with very fine silty sand . I need to have this sand vacuumed out each year . This summer , the sand has re-entered my well very quickly ( one week ) . How can I prevent this sand from seeping in ?

My well is about 18 feet deep , with concrete tiles about 3 feet in diameter . It fills up about 3 feet of water ...right now the sand is about 1 foot from the top of the water level .

I noticed that the walls of the tiles have shifted and there are gaps between various tiles ...I think the entire well has sunk into this sand and shifted . If I rebuild the entire well , how can I prevent this sand from invading ?
 

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64;
jthomsenrn@gmail.comI live in the Adirondacks of NY known for confusing water problems. I have a 600 ft well with an old 2hp pump at 380 feet down a 6 in casing runing into the house. Were not in a drought and i dont think the water tabel dropped but the pressuer switch keeps tripping. It will reset manualy without difficulty and water will be available, only once and a while will I get a spit or sputter of air. I will go days of regular usage without any difficulty then the next day with mild usage it it will trip several times. Ive had a well company test all the switches, and pressure tank and they said the well is dry I need a completly new system. How do I test the pressure switch or tank? If my well is dry why is some days good others not? Any other suggestions?
65;
I have been pumping water from a river to run my lawn sprinklers for about ten years, but never seem to have enough pressure to run more than one sprinkler at a time. I had a one half horse craftrsman shallow well pump drawing the water for about 90 ft. and pushing it for another 50 ft.. A pump guy suggested that I use a one horse pump set up as a deep well, with the jet in the river. The results are pretty much the same as the shallow well pump. I need the 90ft. draw in order to reach deep enough water, about 5 feet deep when it is shallow. I have a pressure tank which is in good order. The pressure switch is set at 30psi/50psi, would it help to increase to 40psi60psi.
 

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Welcome to BathroomArea.com
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We just installed a Glacier Bay pressure assist toilet that we ordered from Home Depot. We are having the same problem as reported by others with pressure assist toilets. Shredded toilet paper backs up into the toilet after a flush. Any ideas????

Thanks,
dmhyde1
so in my basement i have a pump and exp. tank running the well for my sprinklers. This year in the NE it has been very dry... Wellone day i came home to find the pump still running at 6 pm...and not a drop of water comin out...my impeller got damaged but the tank was fine... i replaced the pump and it works fine....BUT NO water still....
I then took a pitcher pump ,cut the pvc coming into my foundation and tried to draw water out manually. This also unsuccessful due to the fact that it was getting air through a crack or dried up pipe dope....So i dug.I dug i dug idug..And the elbow was found quickly 3.75' below grade.Thats the elbow that connects the pvc coming into foundation horizonattly,and the larger pvc going straight down..??????How far down vertically will this pvc go before hitting galvanized...im now at 7.5 ft below grade and scared that ill never get outta this hole. wheres the metal at dude?????
shadyones;269700 said:
The new vanity ended up with sink drain being 7 inches to right and top of p-trap aligned to bottom of sink drain,

I move the p-trap to sink drain then added flexible length to join exit pipe (in wall) after rotating exit pipe so the curved end of exit pipe is now facing right.

The new design just doesn't look right and I want to avoid the suggestion by neighbor to put three p-traps in series to form a flowing pipe assembly.
Check out Caroma's new Sydney Smart rear outlet toilet!!!! Large trap!!!!! Easy Installation!!! Low maintenance!!!

Map Tested!!!! 900 GRAMS!!!!!!! Best Gravity Rear Outlet toilet in the US!!
am new to this site. I have received signed contract for bank owned house. There are two sump pump. One in the pit in the basement ....the other one in the sand pit and is hanging over the sewer cap. This area is somewhat wet and the inspection guy smelled sewer. He flushed the bathroom couple of times to check the leak. But he cound not find any thing...he has some doubt and feels there may be a leak in the sewer pipe, but he is not sure of that. This doubt is due to:

Sump pump in the sand pit. Is this abnormal to have sump pump in sand pit?
wetness in the sand pit area

any help would be appreciated.
my mom's house is about 300 yds from my pool. the house was old and taken down, but i still used it to keep my leaking pool full
anyway the pump was stolen and i was stupid enough to think i could ill it with county water. wrong, can't afford 300mt water bills. the pump was a myers pump, and it didn't have much preasure by the time it got to my pool, but it worked. i think the well is 90 ft and it's a jet . any ideas on a newer cheaper pump?
robert8;272407 said:
Hi,
I am planing to finish my basement bathroom in a single house built 2 years ago in Maryland. I have some question about these pipe rough ins. The are 2 biger ones. one is black 5" and in 2 ft away is a 4 " white one. I guess the black one is for toilet. but what is the white one for? if for the shower drain, it is too close to the toilet and is just 2 food in front of the sink drain pipe. There are another two 2"pipes behighd the 2 bigger ones.. one with tee connection and connect to the first floor for vent, I guess this is for sink drain, and another one without Tee connection, I guess this is for tube drain. Also, How do I know there is or is not a P trap under the cement fo r the tube? Do I need connect any more vent for the tube or toilet?
Many thanks
Robert
My plumber says to decscale my Noritz (model N-0751M-OD) every year (It's been two years and it's making a noise). Machine to descale costs $245, plus $25 for chemical. Really?
Terry, Please give me your assessment of the Toto ECO Drake II 1.28 GPF toilet. (TOCST454CEFG-01) I am trying to decide which product to buy; the Toto or the Eljer Titan 1.6 GPF. Either one will be a marked improvement over the existing fixture. I already have an Eljer, comfort ht. and would want the new toilet to be C.H. or ADA compliant, as well. Both the Toto & Eljer are about the same price. Thanks for your imput.
 

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Terry, Please give me your assessment of the Toto ECO Drake II 1.28 GPF toilet. (TOCST454CEFG-01) I am trying to decide which product to buy; the Toto or the Eljer Titan 1.6 GPF. Either one will be a marked improvement over the existing fixture. I already have an Eljer, comfort ht. and would want the new toilet to be C.H. or ADA compliant, as well. Both the Toto & Eljer are about the same price. Thanks for your imput.


I like the Toto Drake II far better then the Eljer Titan.
I've used both, and when you put them side by side, most people want the Toto.
I bought five Titans, and it took months to unload them, I mean sell them.
In that same period of time, I sold hundreds of the Drake and Ultramax by Toto. They just look better.
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The dishwasher nearly always starts at 2 hours and takes forever to run. It also stays on "1 minute" for a long time. I'm thinking the heat element is bad and its having trouble keeping the water temp hot enough. But I hate to spend the $245 for the heater and not be sure that's the problem.
Thanks,
jagman


Help! Hey guys - what am I the red headed stepchild?? No replies to my Bosch dishwasher problem and my wife is beating the tar out of me on this. Help me out here before I have to spend the $245 on a new heater.
Thanks,
jagman


Hi Friend,
I also used this dishwasher but, I liked this one a lot, It saves time and efforts, i want to suggest everypne this will be a profitable deal to have it.
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Probably a burnt-out connection on the main circuit board. I had exactly the same problem. I looked on the web and found a couple of photos that showed exactly the same as what the circuit board in my dishwasher showed. I re-soldered the connection using lots of solder, so that it acts like a heat sink. Could this be design flaw on Bosch's part - they'll never acknowledge that!
\N
Guest;147970 said:
I am interested in finding out more information regarding the ADA Comfort Height Vorten Toilets. Would you be able to point me in a direction; i.e. a website where I can find all the information I can on this particular produce.

Thank you,

Pat B
I have a Vorten Model 3113-3436 confort height toilet and it is the best thing I ever bought. Very easy to sit on and get back up since old age has stiffend the joints.


I had a Vortens pressure assist in my master bathroom.
Compared to a gravity toilet, it was nosier and didn't clean the bowl as well.

The model you list, is the dual flush from WDI in China.
I quit selling those tanks, as 40% of the tanks came back in the first six months and I no longer sell them.

Here is a link about the WDI Ecoflush dual flush tank.


WDI Technology EcoFlush made in China

When the dual flush unit fails, you can replace it with a Flushmate 1.1 GPF pressure tank.

Whereas the WDI EcoFlush is very new, the Flushmate brand has been around for about twenty years and is made in Detroit Michigan.
old ex plumber;277556 said:
had the same problem getting a new seat for my Aquadis Tytane elongated toilet. Nobody at Home Depot had even heard of it. Bought it at Home Depot[different store,3 years ago].Aquadis is a Canadian company,headquarters in Quebec. I finally spoke to a sales rep there and ordered a seat.It should arrive in a couple of days.Never had any problems until now and that is just with the seat.It is an oddball, having a measurement of 17 3-4 inches [centre of bolts to outside lip of seat] as opposed to most seats 18 1-2 .inches. Hope this info helps. Old ex plumber.
detroit;277564 said:
I had my tub, walls, and ceiling done by Bathfitter in Livonia, Michigan about 8 years ago and it still looks brand new. I just love the seamless walls and never had a problem with anything. Salesman wasn't pushy at all and the installers were in and out in one day. They did a great job and I would highly recommend them to anyone. Keep up the great work BATHFITTER.
We are doing a reroute through our ceiling (no attic) to replace 3/4 copper hot and cold water pipes due to a slab leak on our 6 year old custom home (sigh!). What kind of pipe is best suited -- copper or polyethylene?
Many thanks for your thoughts.
I dont deal with victaulic fittings and systems ever, but i tried to take on the task of repairing a leak on a 4" victaulic coupling for a water chiller, if kinda of lost and dont know where to start, from shutting of the water to powering down the pump system, my uncle said usual you could find the water shut off near the sprinkler room, is that true ? also how do those systems work do i have bleed all the air out and if so where. I have pictures if that would help out and video.


Victaulic are just rubber o-rings inside a two bolt clamp. When the system is under pressure, the rubber seal spreads out and makes a tight connection. Removing a clamp allows access to the rubber seal, which can be replace or move out of the way while working.
My kitchen Franke gooseneck faucet is only allowing a thin stream of water to flow. I unscrewed the head and the stream of water was still the same... very constricted. The the coil was removed from under the counter and I can see no way of flushing water through that. Now I have no use of my kitchen faucet. Is my faucet shot or can it be fixed?


Normally a restriction would be at the aerator. Cleaning that normally does it.

The next step would be to remove the water supplies and see if you are getting water from the shutoffs at the wall.
songstj;279218 said:
A 3rd floor condo with 6 units above and 2 below. There have been 5 kitchen sink backups in the past 44 months. 3 out and over the top with gray water. No one is home and the dishwasher is not on. The Lead Plumbing Inspector after looking at a video of the inside said the 3" vertical drain pipe bends slightly on it's way to the 2nd floor and and the cast iron is pitted. Building built in 1989 and converted to condos in 2005.

Any ideas.
nanny123;279457 said:
About same time last winter and now again, we have found our back faucet on full blast. ???
We have water in house so I don't think anything burst nor is it too cold here, really low at night-0 to 10 degrees, but we live in SE Utah, desert area. Our home is only 2 yrs old but is a modular home. NOT sure what else you need but suffice it to say, it causes us great concern and I cannot seem to find anything about this except for insulating pipes, etc... CAN SOMEONE HELP B4 WE HAVE TO CALL PLUMBER????????:confused::confused::confused::confused:


If you can post a picture of this hose bibb it would help explain alot. Some models are frost proof hydrants and they will at times do this. Do you have cruel neighbors, playing games? Really, though, a pic could help quickly determine this phenomenon!
My company is monitoring some Solar water heating systems to determine how much energy they produce and some of the systems are showing flow in both directions. These Velux systems. We are showing flow in both directions between the cold water coming from the street before it even reaches the SWH system.

Does anyone know why a customer on city water would have water moving in two directions?
 

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We only get a hot shower if we turn on a cold water faucet, or flush the toilet. I had a plummer over for the day replacing the hot water heater. to his surprise we had cold water running running from the supply line and return line both. we had a mess when cold water sprayed out of the hot pipe. He said he never saw this before. We have individual hot and cold handles in all showers and sinks with no mixers. The hot water supply to the washer is off. This amazed him. Any ideas??
I have to replace a leaking water heater and I'd like to replace it with the same kind that has been there. It is a Bradford White Lowboy , 40 gal. capacity. Can I purchase one at a retail store ? Thanks for any help!!
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tex72;280290 said:
Hi All, I am new and have found a lot of your posts helpful. I am at the tailend of a bathroom remodel. I purchased a drop in bathtub (acrylic) and the GC installed the tub, and assured me this is proper installation. It is sitting on about 5" of cement. When I stand in it, it crunches and crunches. Something tells me that is not good. Previously I had a jacuzzi tub that was in this tub's place, and it had the apron front. It was cemented to the floor as well, but only about 1-2" and never made noises. Here's a pic of how the GC has my tub installed. Thanks in advance!
12693390_NFkKR

12693390_NFkKR
Can anyone assist me on where I can purchase a broach and length guide template to verify faucet valve stem makes on the job. I know you can take them to Lowes or the home depot etc. to match up. It would be great to have this template with me on service calls to streamline the call. I have called my suppliers, used the search engines with every way of phrasing I can think of. I have been a plumber now over 24 years in the commercial construction arena with only approx 3 years in the service area. This would be a great jewel for me to have.
Any help?
Also, is there a valve stem catalog / seat "bible" that covers all. This would accompany well.
Thanks for any advice, link, supplier, etc.
I have a new Amana central air conditioner. Not sure of the lingo but its a two part deal with the compressor outside and the air handler in the garage. the air handler has a multi speed blower with circulate only type of functions, etc. Its supposed to be pretty advanced. 18.3 SEER. 4 ton unit. the compressor is asxc18.... and the air handler is mbv something or other. My problem is when the system is set on Heat, the blower comes on at a low speed like its set to do, I think its 600 cfm....but the heat strip doesn't seem to start until the difference between the temp and thermostat setting is 2 or 3 degrees then the system goes to Auxiliary, the blower speed goes up and it starts to heat. Seems to me like the heat strip is hooked up as auxiliary like it would be with a heat pump or something like that. But mine isn't.

2nd part of my problem is this. The system has only been in since July this year. I called the guy that installed it(approved, certified dealer) and can't get him to return the call.

I had a little customer service deal with them back when it was installed that was never really satisfied. It didn't cost him anything and the job was completed but he performed all of the work very differently (less thorough) than what he promised and we clashed a little over it.

I gotta get someone out her to fix it but how without having to just hire a 2nd guy.
 

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Maybe I should just write a program to automatically import these into resources. Then again, many of these are basically threads.
 

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rroyall;281055 said:
Same thing. House built in 2005. Pipe has split 4 times this year. Insurance paid for clean up not replacing pipe. Builder is bankrupt. Plumber is out of business. Called Nibco and they will not take ownership for CPI pipe. Any lawsuits yet against Nibco??


Split number five happened today 12-16-10.


Really nice.
====
Motorhome Rental
Good afternoon:

I am currently remodeling a restroom in our house. I am doing the work myself. It was recommended to me that if I was going to tear out the tile in the shower I should go ahead and replace the drum trap. I went ahead and broke the cement and was able to get to the drum trap and wye to which p-trap is connected. I noticed some moisture around one of the caps so I called a plumber. The plumber recommended replacing the entire section. You can see the picture at the link given below. After they completed the work, I stuck a hose into the pipe and turned on the water. Within 5 minutes of running the water I noticed the pipe where the bottom coupling is connected becoming moist. Would you please give me recommendations on how the plumbers needs to fix this correctly. Some other notes: The coupling connects close to the lead pipe where there is a 90 degree angle. The diameter of the lead pipe is not uniform. It seem like the coupling is too short.

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/5753/img1184ob.jpg

Merry Christmas and God Bless you,
JC
\N
I have an electronic Fleck meter (9100) that is not counting gallons. I would like to test it before I have to take it apart.
1st time visit. I need an answer, when my boiler runs for a while steam shots out of the valve pipe are there any suggestions on how to prepare this?
Kohler Memoirs Seafoam Green Toilet Needed
I am trying to get a Kohler Memoirs seafoam green toilet. It was dicontinued & I have the bidet so I do not want to change color...can anyone help me?
I called Kohler & asked if they did special orders to recreate the toilet & was told they do not do that anymore. I have been on line everywhere I can think of & can't find it. Would really appreciate the similar color & style in another company...thanks for the help
tonertee;283576 said:
My wife and I have been considering replacing the kitchen sink. I have about 4 years plumbing experience in repairs and new construction.

We are looking at a double sink/black 33X22X 8 or 9. Acrylic or composite granite or granite.

About 6 months ago I was surfing the internet for install instructions to refresh my memory. I came across a site that I have not been able to find lately. The site showed an unconventional way to plumb the drain. The result was maximum space under the sink. Have you got any ideas about this "other" way to plumb the drain?


The 2" drain stub up comes up in the back of the cabinet space. A double wye fitting is used standing straight up. The center branch of the wye is the vent and continues on up and out. Each side branch (going off at an 45 degree angle from the vertical center) turns a 90 degree ell to horizontal and toward the center drain on each side of the sink. Then a p-trap is piped under each basket strainer. This eliminates the two diagonal drain lines to the sink and instead there is a drain line going straight back. I have also seen it where the p-traps were installed flat against the back wall and the drain lines from the basket strainers ran straight back to the p-traps and turned a 90 degree ell down.
\N
The water pump in my comode was replaced about 3 years ago. Recently it hesitates a few seconds after flushing before it will activate and fill the tank. I replaced the flapper just in case it had something to do with the problem. It seemed to help a little. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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when I use water in the house and the aerator tank refills sometimes it will not shut off and overflows
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dirtygold;285422 said:
I have a mop sink with a 3" drain do I make a peetrap out of 3'' abs or do I need a grease trap.
and how tall do I put the faucet up of floor I live in alaska if that maters.
Here are the facts.
Our upstairs bathroom is the only plumbing we have in the upper level. Kitchen and half bath on lower floor and laundry tub and washer taps in basement. So, one hot copper 1/2 pipe goes upstairs through the exterior wall and the hot line goes through an interior wall, near the exterior wall.
We have gone away for the last two years for a week or two during the winter, and turned the heat down to around 60 F while we were gone with no freezing problems.

In late November/early December (when it really wasn't all that cold) I turned on the cold water tap in upstairs bathroom sink, and no water. Turned it off. Tried hot tap, all is fine. Then tried the tub - hot and cold - all is fine. A minute later the cold water sink tap was flowing again. Like it had never stopped. Thought that the tap might be going bad, even though I never saw it happen like that before.
No problems since then.

Yesterday, the cold stopped flowing and I started looking for a replacement faucet set. This morning, the cold still doesn't flow but the hot doesn't either. And now the toilet supply has stopped as well. But the tub still works fine. It was -2F last night and I thought that maybe a partial freeze could be the issue. I have had the heat jacked up all morning but still no change. Tried turning off the main - draining all lines by opening all taps and turning main back on. No change.

Could there be any another explanation for this kind of problem other than freezing?

Someone with years and years of experience may be able to supply some wisdom from something he or she has seen in the past. Please tell me what you think.
Thank you.
My washer is 6 years old and it suddenly started overflowing with suds at the end of the drain/spin cycle. The roof is covered in snow- deeper than usual. Could this be the problem?
I posted this in Forums as well, but it's frustrating me so much that it's worthwhile putting it in writing here too!

We've lived in this house for 3 years without any discoloured well water. Suddenly this winter we've had brown water appear twice. The first time seemed to flush through easily enough (several repeat flushes of both toilets seemed to clear it all up). This time (tonight) it's not flushing through and appears to be getting worse.

The water has a silty look to it which I suspect means that the dug well is either close to running dry or has had some kind of dislodgement of ice/silt which has stirred up the sediment.

Now the wretched pump is cycling on/off constantly for the past hour....nothing's running, everyone's in bed and the thing is going on for 14 sec then off for 4 sec again and again.

Before I call someone in (yes, I know this is a DIY website and all the more power to those folks who are capable of doing this) and spend tons of $$$ on assessing the issue, I'd like to understand what the potential problems might be and the $$$ to fix.

Help!:(


Ok, have turned the pump off overnight and when I turned it back on this morning it ran continuously for 10 min before I gave up and turned it off again. Although while it was on I got in 2 good flushes (still brown water) and then no water pressure at all before turning it off. Thankfully I got a response to the forum posting so I will now reconsider my option of just having it filled by the local water tanker guy and look into getting a professional out to have a look at the well pump and lines. Interestingly, we have recently started parking our 3500 lb trailor on the lawn between the house and the well .... am now wondering if this could be compressing the line somehow.....


if your pump is cycling on and off repeadely and you have a bladder tank then your bladder has no air in it. you can check this by turning off the electricity to the pump and then drawing down the pressure in the tank to zero. simply open a cold water spicket until the gauge reads zero. check the air in the tank with a pressure gauge. if you do not have any air in the tank then put some in--two lbs below the lowest pressure setting. if your relay is set for between 40 to 60 then 38 lbs of air is preferred. run the pump for a couple of days and if it still kicks on and off repeadely then your bladder probably has a hole in it and the bladder tank needs replacing. good luck
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\N
:confused::confused:
Marisela;285754 said:
Hello I was wondering if i could install a backwash system without cutting the concrete. Is it possible to hook it up against the wall to existing pipeing? Is this costly?
 

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Wendy D 373;285002 [COLOR="red" said:
Regarding the Firenze Tub & Wall Surround [/COLOR]purchased at Home Depot. I had the tub professional installed with the tub surround. Even though it is beautiful (tub is deep, shelves on the surround etc); I am ready to replace it. I had it installed June 2009 and it is getting mold around the base of the tub where the surround meets it and water is following the edge of the tub/surround and actually ruining my wall on both ends of the tub. The tub is flimsy and has movement when you are in it. The contractor stated it was because of the styrofoam base & while he was still working in the bathroom; I contacted ASB directly. They told me that the tub has some movement or give but I should have stopped at that point & returned it. If anything else was done to firm this up; we could have voided the warranty and now; I don't know if I have any recourse. Even when my grandkids are in the tub; there is movement if they sit on the side til they get it. If you caulk; it won't hold because the tub moves while the surround doesn't. I'm totally disgusted plus the contractor kept all the paperwork. Luckily, I have my receipts from Home Depot to help me with ABS/Firenze. The person in Home Depot actually told me that he had a few complaints for the same reason & wouldn't recommend the tub to anyone. But it is alittle too late. If anyone has any advice; please do so. Money is very tight as with everything else right now but I can't afford to have the walls ruined and mold growing. FYI.... Just had a contractor at my home yesterday (01/28/2011) and he never will install a styrofoam base tub because it won't hold up & after time, if the styfoam doesn't conform back to shape; he stated what will hold the tub to prevent cracking and tilting". Good thought! Thanks~
My well is 33 years old. The first 17 years of use was about once a month for the weekend and we ran the water for aproximately 4 hours to get "clean" water. We have been permanent residents for the past 16 years and now have two five micron filters on the system that I change every week as fine particles still get through the filters and of course my water pressure drops as the filters get dirtier and dirtier. I have been thinking about raisins the pump approximately 10 to 15 feet thinking this would alleviate my problem. I get different opinions on the results depending on who I ask about raising the pump. Is my only recourse to raise the pump and just see what happends? I also have two neighbors that have deep wells that are only about 100 feet from mine and neither has a silt problem and has no filters at all on their systems. I think my well is 240 feet deep and would not only check on its depth but would also check on the depth of the water above the pump before raising. Would apprediate any suggestions.

Thanks dave
My water supply line from the meter is 3/4" PVC, and I would like to plumb the house with PEX. The best idea I have is to transition to CPVC for the run through the wall, so I can use sharkbite fittings for the transition to PEX, and to add a sharkbite ball valve for a shut-off. The added consequence is another transition from PVC to CPVC, which I think I will use brass threaded adapters. It's not really clean or pretty, and uses a lot of different materials, I think it will work, any suggestions?


I'm assuming you are on a conventional foundation? The best way to change type of pipe is with male and female adapters. Why would you want to go from pvc to cpvc then to brass nipples then to pex. Too many transitions with too many opprotunities to have a leak later. Pvc male to a pex female is all you need or vise versa. And put your ball valve where ever is easiest to access.
Hello, I hope someone can help us. We have a pounded well that is 197ft , it was drilled in 12/2002. We finalized our house in 7/2004, we have always had some black sand that a small filter has worked at the well house and at the point of entry to the house. We have occasionally gotten brown water and it usually clears up after a day or so. This time it started out cloudy (white in color) then went to a dark brown. We called our driller and they said you need to just run it out. After 6 hours and a lot of sand it cleared only to return the next day. We have called several drillers and they all have no clue as to what could be causing this problem. We have pulled the pump and had a pump guy come to video the well, he said that we have iron in the well the drop tube is PVC and there is black residue on the out side and orange color on the inside. He suggested we get the water tested and get a filtration system on it. However, this makes no sense, our neighbors well is close to ours and her water is fine. Why would this all of a sudden happen? The video showed no signs of a crack and the pressure was 175lbs before we pulled the pump. Also the torque arrester was broken could that be the problem. When they scoped the well the water was muddy down in the well. All of the remedies are very costly including suggestion that we drill a new well, we would feel better if all the suggestion came back the same but how do you know who's right? We have been with out water for going on three weeks now and this Momma is NOT happy!!!!
jmemory;286683 said:
i have a 3wood4 installed for 2 years i added a electric 12v magnet in line with the chain so if the power go out the draft door closes giving me timt ot start my generatoe, i installed it in a hurry and did not install a dump zone(mistake will redo it this summer ,have 2000 sq ft and this will overheat my house

Wendy D 373;285002 said:
I know this post is from last year but I would not recommend it. I had it professional installed with the tub surround. Even though it is beautiful (tub is deep, shelves on the surround etc); I am ready to replace it. I had it installed June 2009 and it is getting mold around the base of the tub where the surround meets and water is following the edge of the tub/surround and actually ruining my wall on both ends of the tub. The tub is flimsy and has movement when you are in it. The contractor stated it was because of the styrofoam base & while he was still working in the bathroom; I contacted ASB directly. They told me that the tub has some movement or give but I should have stopped at that point & returned it. If anything else was done to firm this up; we could have voided the warranty and now; I don't know if I have any recourse. Even when my grandkids are in the tub; there is movement if they sit on the side til they get it. If you caulk; it won't hold because the tub moves while the surround doesn't. I'm totally disgusted plus the contractor kept all the paperwork. Luckily, I have my receipts from Home Depot to help me with ABS/Firenze. The person in Home Depot actually told me that he had a few complaints for the same reason & wouldn't recommend the tub to anyone. But it is alittle too late. If anyone has any advice; please do so. Money is very tight as with everything else right now but I can't afford to have the walls ruined and mold growing. Thanks~
 

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I am installing an Americast tub and have set the tub on a level stringer, but the back of the tub directly over the stringer is not level. It says the back right is 1/4 inch too high. Is it possible that the tub itself that sets on the stringer is not level?


In addition....... the back left to front left is level and the front left to front right is level after putting a 1/4" shim under the front right. But the back left to back right is still not level. The level shows that the rear right needs to go down 1/8-1/4"(even though the stringer itself is level). Just to see if it would help, I moved the right of the stringer down 1/8-1/4" so it is no longer level (hoping the top back of the tub would be level) and the back right of the tub will now not set down on the stringer. No matter what, I can't seem to get it level. Even if all three edges are level, the back right corner is off. I am beginning to wonder if the tub is warped.


I think you are right the tub must be slightly uneven, maybe so it drains properly? Sounds like you may need to shave the stringer.
I have a reverse osmosis that drain excess all the time. I understand the cost of clean water with a ratio of 1 gallon of filtered water to 2 to 3 gallons going to the drain, once the system is full (charger without using any water) does the drain shut off automatically or does it continue to drain all the time?
I appreciate your comment, because if it continues to drain all the time, I will work on a way to shut it off once the system is charged.

thank you
excusemaker;288774 said:
What can I do to repair such an old system???

Any answers or questions to help me learn will be replied to.

Thanks!:confused:septic


My advice would be to do what you need to repair any collapsed structures but I wouldn't automatically assume that this is the problem. It is probably years of sewage clogging the field and lines with biomat. Use this companys product and follow all of their advice would be my best advice. They offer free tech support with seasoned professionals free of charge. I would try shocking it first with their products. Their website is www.biosafeone.com contractors do not work cheap and it always smells the property when you dig neighbors hate that. Not good for the health if you know what I mean. I hope this helps.
qt314b;289879 said:
Hi, :) I just found this forum while searching for information for my new bathroom. I think ceiling tub fillers look very cool but my husband prefers to go the traditional route and only sees flaws with a ceiling tub filler - I saw it in a magazine. I hope someone can shed some positive light on this so I can win a few points, however I am open to the truth even if it is not what I want to hear.

A little detail about the bathroom, it is a small bathroom remodel that will have a standard size tub/shower combination (hopefully a deeper tub) and it will be used primarily by my 4 children 2-11yrs old.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Rachel
My Badger 5 garbage disposal quit working. The blades don't turn when the switch is turned on. It simply buzzes loudly. I have checked the blades they are not stuck. They rotate freely when turned manually. The disposal was installed in October of 2005. Any thougths?


Take an allen wrench to the bottom of the unit and see if you can spin it.
It doesn't take much to jam them. The blades will spin freely regardless.

Average use on these is eight years. But if you can get the inner part to rotate again, you may be fine.


Thanks,
I found an allen wrench. I was able to turn the motor from the bottom, but it still buzzes. I can take the allen wrench and push the motor up a little but it falls right back down. Could that be an indication that the bearing is shot? If so can that be replaced, assuming that that is the problem?
 

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I recent purchased a Fleck water softener for our home. It's a 98K grain capacity but our water hardness is 48 and our iron content is 0.5ppm. Our water is great now that it's installed but there's so much water in the brine tank that I think one of our settings is wrong. It always overflows which we have draining out to our sump pump for the time being but I can't even open and close the cover without causing a suction and releasing more water through the overflow. I'm to the point now where it's time to refill the salt but I don't know how to get the water to the right level so I don't get water all over my basement....help! Our local plumber has never worked on Fleck water sofeners before so he's of no help and we originally purchased this online and the company is not responding to my inquiries.
the shower next to my toilet appears to be hogging the pressure from the toilet inlet water line at certain pressure. Once the shower takes over, it robs the cold water from the toilet inlet leaving my tank empty. I have replaced all valves, cold water inlet line, the entire control flushing system in the toilet a few times. Nothing works. I even cut the drywall behind the toilet and re soldered a new t-joint split between the sink, toilet and shower. But the cold water line still fails to fill the toilet tank at certain pressure what appear to be dropping once the shower is on. This may be rare, but I suspect that the pressure balancing valve in the shower has gone bad and it takes total control over the cold water each time extreme pressure activates it, restricting the flow of inlet cold water linen to the toilet. My puzzle remains if that happens, why does the cold water in the sink still running fine and why does it only affect the toilet tank? Any advise to my diagnose is gratefully appreciated. here are my questions; 1) does pressure valve go bad and act in total control of water line? 2) If that happens, why would it only affect the toilet, especially since all three items are tied together? thanks
please email me your responses to wong.handyman@gmail.com if all possible.
Hi, i just bought the One-Piece Eco Toilet FOREMOST model # TL-8271E-WL .One-piece eco toilet. 4-L or 6-L insulated tank. Elongated bowl, fully concealed trapway design. Self-cleaning, antibacterial surface. 12-in. rough-in. Made of grade-A, white porcelain. Plastic slow close seat included. Also includes 3-in. glazed p-trap, wax seal and floor bolts.
Do they use the WDI Technology EcoFlush like Redwood has been posted,and have a problem with pressure ? And also is this Toilet flush good enough for all the Poop go down i can't find the review of this one...please let me know before i can install this weekend. i'm looking forward to this.
Thanks
Thu


Almost no information is available on this model. It's not on the Foremost web site either. I guess you can let us know how it works out.
When I open my side door I can smell what seems to be an ammonia smell coming from the general area of the door frame, what's up with that? The smell has been noticeable for at least a year I think, any ideas what could cause it?:confused:
I do not know where to find Lasco electronic control button for my Lasco air bubbler/whirlpool tub. Can you help direct me? A picture of the devise is available. Thanks, Jacchiro
I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR A NEW WATER SOFTENER AND WOULD LIKE SOME HELP. I HAD MY WATER TESTED AND THIS IS THE RESULTS: 16 HARD GPG, 1.5 IRON, 7.5 PH, 250 TDS, AND 1.1 TANNINS. I DO NOT KNOW WHAT 250 TDS IS. AND WAS TOLD THE TANNINS ARE NOT GOOD TO HAVE.
THERE IS 3 PEOPLE IN THE HOUSE AND WE ALL TAKE SHOWERS EVERYDAY, WE HAVE WELL WATER. I ALSO WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT GRAIN SIZE I WOULD NEED. I ALSO HAVE TO HAVE A CABINET TYPE FOR ROOM. I AM THINKING OF THE FLECK 5600SXT DIGITAL.
I ALSO AM THINKING OF GETTING THE OPTIONAL TUBULATOR AND USE THE FINE MESH RESIN AND I AM THINKING I MAY NEED A 40,000 GRAIN UNIT, WE NOW HAVE A SEARS KENMORE 32,000 AND IT HAS NOT BEEN A GOOD ONE FOR US, IT COULD BE THE RESIN IS BAD BY NOW BUT IT HAS ALWAYS REGENERATED EVERY NIGHT SINCE IT WAS NEW, WE GO THROUGH LOTS OF SALT. I ALSO HAVE IT SET ON THE HIGHEST SETTING AND THE WATER IS NOT SO SOFT, NOT LIKE THE FLECK ECONIMIZER WE HAD IN AN OLDER HOUSE BEFORE. LOVED THAT SOFTENER. ONLY REGENERATED ONCE A WEEK AND THE WATER WAS REALLY SOFT LIKE I LIKE IT. I KNOW THAT THE WATER AT THE OTHER HOUSE WAS MUCH BETTER THAN WE HAVE NOW BUT COME ON, WE HAVE 1.5 IRON HERE IN THE NEW, IT CAN'T BE THAT BAD. IT IS A SHALLOW WELL BUT NOT THAT BAD OF WATER, IT HAS NO SMELLS.
Hello, I have replaced a bladder tank recently, and after hooking it up to the water line, I cannot get it to fill with water, the pump will run and pressure will drop then increase. The pump cycles off and on frequently when a faucet is opened, but the tank will not fill! The previous tank was only 9 gal, which came with the pump as a set, the new tank is a 32 gal. I am out of ideas.
We purchased a Toto Washlet SW 834R 5-6 years ago, which is awesome and worked great. But, about 2-3 years ago it started leaking and since no one knew how to repair a leaking problem here, we sent it back to Toto for repair
It cost $50 to send it back and $200 to fix it. Sort of outrageous!
Now it is leaking again and here we go again...this time we are not sending it back to Toto due to the outrageous price.
Since we found your website, perhaps you can help us with this problem, which could be as simple as a washer, gasket or ?, and though we cannot solve the problem, if you can help or walk us through it, we have a friend who is a plumber-handyman, who can follow your directions and restore it to its awesome capabilities.
Please help!
Many thanks in advance.
Debi



Basement sump pump quit. Bought new 1/2 hp pump but it doesn't have a electrical connection to the back up battery system I have. How can I connect the sump pump to the back up batter?
 
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