Best set-up for a very long run to tank float switch & back to contactor/controller

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by ronan, May 11, 2013.

  1. ronan

    ronan New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    California
    Hello everyone just looking to pick some more experienced brains than mine on this mater. I have a 220v pump in my well pumping up to a gravity feed tank on my property 450ft rise & 1800ft run..!. Right now it’s controlled by a simple 220v Intermatic 24 Hour Mechanical Timer/Switch set to run for whatever specific time I set it to. When I put the system in I buried conduit with a couple of pull boxes for future installation of a wide angle float switch in the water tank to operate a contactor/controller at the well. A much more efficient way of running the pump as it would/will only be running when the demand is there.

    Anyway I am just now getting around to putting this plan into action and was wondering if anyone out there has any recommendations about a good or better set-up. Things like what voltage to run to the float switch for such a long run, recommended wire size and what contactor set-up might be recommend..? I would like to keep the system nice and simple and not make it overly complicated! Any help greatly appreciated.
  2. VAWellDriller

    VAWellDriller Member

    Messages:
    170
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Do you have power at the tank location? If so, I'd put a remote telemetry system; have used remote control technologies systems with good luck, google them. Also, what HP is the pump, and 2 wire or 3 ?
  3. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,425
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    I have had problems with long runs on AC power. The inductance between the two wires is the same as if the float switch where closed and calling for water all the time. Use DC power from the float switch to a relay and you shouldn’t have problems.

    I have also had telemetry systems recommended by many people who have done this as VA says. I think the one last recommended to me was an “Isaacs” (spelling?).
  4. ronan

    ronan New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    California
    If I remember right it is a 1 hp, 3 wire Franklin submersible pumping about 8 gallons a minute. Also no power at the tank! I would prefer hard wiring the system.
  5. ronan

    ronan New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    California
    Any info on a DC float switch circuit running an AC contactor..?
  6. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,425
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    The float switch doesn't care if it is AC or DC. You just need a DC coil in the contactor and a DC transformer to send power to the float switch and back.
  7. ronan

    ronan New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    California
    Thanks for the info. Could you tell me what voltage is typical/recommended for the transformer pwr through the float switch on a run that long? And who would you recommend as a good solid manufacture of such an off the shelf control box? It's typically called a simplex control box...Correct? There is such a plethora of control boxes out there I can't sift through them for the one one that has the good old fashion proven rock solid reputation. Is there a reputable pump supply company I can call and tell them my requirements and they can tell me what I need. I am pretty savvy with concern to home building and basic plumbing but this is outside my realm of expertise..! Most places I talk to don't ever deal with this scenario and are not to enthusiastic about providing me with any help. Much thanks in advance for any additional info.
  8. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,425
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    You might want to put the contactor in a box, but a contactor is all you need. One with a 24 VDC coil and contacts rated for the pumps amperage at 240 VAC.
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