Bathroom sink: Connecting plastic pop-up to metal trap

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by calantha, Nov 8, 2011.

  1. calantha

    calantha New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    New York
    I'm replacing the faucet and pop-up in my bathroom sink. Doing well so far, but I have a question I hope you can help me with.

    The pop-up assembly is plastic, and the trap is metal (galvanized steel?). How should I connect them? The instructions show a plastic nut and sleeve that don't seem to be included in the package. I still have the metal nut and o-ring from removing the old metal pop-up. I tried using that, but it doesn't fit snugly on the plastic pipe. Do I need to get a new fitting to connect the plastic tube to the metal trap?

    To be more specific, I have the metal trap, and then a straight, vertical piece of metal pipe a few inches long, and then the plastic pop-up tube. so the pop-up is connecting to that vertical piece, not directly to the trap piece.

    Thanks.
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,815
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    The plastic drain is EXACTLY the same size as a metal one, including your old one, so you probably just need a new washer/gasket.
  3. Hardt

    Hardt Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    Hawaii
    I recently replaced my lavatory faucet and it came with a brass drain pipe that extends about 5" below the drain hole. The faucet kit also came with the plastic pipe that has the hole and fitting for the pop up lever to go into. This pipe screws unto the brass drain pipe and extends down into the top of the trap. The old replaced pipe that has the hole/fitting for the pop-up lever was metal but as HJ stated, its new plastic replacement has the same OD so I used the original plastic sleeve and pvc nut and the fitting was secure. Maybe a picture of your new drain/pop up pipe system would help show the problem.
  4. calantha

    calantha New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    New York
    couple more little things

    Thanks for your advice. I got a new washer & gasket, and put things back together. Water runs, water drains, life is good.

    I have a couple of little questions about the fine-tuning. This is a Delta "Nura" single-handle faucet.

    1) How do I remove the trim cap at the top of the handle without damaging the finish?

    2) In the closed position, the handle doesn't align with the spout. It's a little bit over to one side. Is there a way I can adjust that? It will probably only bother me for about a week, but it bugs me that it's not straight.

    Thanks.

    delta_nura.jpg
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2011
  5. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    The trim cap is THREADED. So you will have to be very careful not to scratch the handle.
    Howver, unless you just did not line up the set screw onto the flat spot on the stem, there is no adjustment of position, just the hot limit stop. Otherwise, it may be that you did not get the main body lined up square to the sink.
  6. calantha

    calantha New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    New York
    Ah, good to know it's threaded! I thought it would pop off.

    The faucet was assembled when I bought it. Once I get that cap off, I'll see if I can adjust. Is the set screw the one behind the red/blue indicator, that looks like I need a little hex wrench for?
  7. calantha

    calantha New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    New York
    update to my previous post

    I found the set screw, removed the handle, and found the flat spot on the stem. I also found the exploded parts diagram so maybe I can call things by the correct names :eek:

    I think the problem is that the alignment of the valve assembly is a tiny bit off. If I remove or loosen the bonnet, will I be able to rotate the valve a smidge to make it straight and get the flat spot of the stem in the right place? Or should I just leave well enough alone?

    Thanks.
  8. calantha

    calantha New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    New York
    A couple more questions to finish things up, the functional one first, then the aesthetic one:

    I'm going to have to re-seat the flange of the popup to the bowl of the sink. It is not sealed, and allows water to drain around the flange. The instructions say to use silicone (which I did, but evidently not enough or not in the right place). Is there any reason not to use plumber's putty instead? Is silicone better for this than plumber's putty?

    What's the secret to putting the little red/blue button back on over the hole for the set screw? I looks like it should snap on like a snap on a shirt, but i can't get it in. This can't be rocket science -- how does it work?

    Thanks.
  9. calantha

    calantha New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    New York
    red/blue button -- how?

    Bumping.

    What's the secret to putting the little red/blue button back into the hole for the set screw? I looks like it should snap in like a snap on a shirt, but i can't get it in. This can't be rocket science -- how does it work?

    Thanks.
  10. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,815
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    You are not getting it alined properly, otherwise it WOULD just slide in. WHether you use putty or not depends on the material the sink is made of, NOT the drain fitting. usually, if the flat is NOT aligned properly, it is because the faucet was assembled incorrectly. This is NOT unusual for faucets from the "big box" stores, but so far has never happened with the ones I buy from wholesalers.
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