Bathroom remodel copper and brass drains

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Jadnashua

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The PVC cement has some dissolved PVC in it along with the solvent...so, if you added some, then let the solvent evaporate, you ended up adding some thickness to the pipe. Adding more solvent when adding more cement took a bit of time to dissolve what was there, but once joined, and the solvent evaporated, it should be fine. It's possible that that excess created a little lip inside of the pipe when you slide the pipe into the fitting, but normally, it won't be a problem, as it would likely be quite small..
 

big_rat

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I'd like to create a tub access panel. What size panel do you guys usually create? My baseboards are like 5" high and I feel like it maybe in the way of the panel. Do you think its worth cutting the baseboards? My tub is 27" wide. I'm thinking access panel should be like 24"x24" to make it easy to access the plumbing. I can use a 1/2" piece of plywood and paint it along with the casing to match the baseboards. Thoughts?
 

CountryBumkin

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What do you need to have access to? If there are fixtures mounted on the tub itself and you need to access them from below to service or replace, then make sure the access panel is large enough for you get to these fixtures. If you're thinking about a panel just to get to glued fittings like the p-trap (just in case), I wouldn't bother putting in a panel.
If you do a panel, try to make it so that any cuts or seams are in natural locations (like a corner and at floor) where they wouldn't ne noticed. There are panel/hatch kits that include recessed magnets to secure the panel.
 

big_rat

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I didn't realize there were waste drain kits that you glued. I thought they were slip fittings. Even still, how would I glue the waste drain to the p-trap if I don't cut a whole in the adjacent room? I don't have access from the floor below.

This is what I ordered. If I can find one that has the same color and style drain cover that is glued together I would go for that.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-50...Merch_Ship_Conf_2941496-_-pip_url__W530920940
 

MKS

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The drain and overflow is built to fit the tub first. Then careful measurements are taken from the tub to position the drain and overflow correctly and connect to trap. Easy to test with light tubs and harder with the 300 pounders.
 

big_rat

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Do you measure and have everything cut and ready, glue the ptrap and drain pipes and then drop the tub onto the pipe? I cannot picture how this would play out without access.
 

CountryBumkin

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Do you measure and have everything cut and ready, glue the ptrap and drain pipes and then drop the tub onto the pipe? I cannot picture how this would play out without access.

Of course you need access to make the pipe connections on a new installation. I though your original question was about having an "access panel" (a removable panel) for future access.

For example, in my family bath, the Tub plumbing and fixtures would be accessed by cutting a hole in the drywall in the adjacent closet. After the Tub install was finished when the house was built, the drywall was put up in the closet and there is no removable panel.
In my master bath, I had a spa tub built into a "jog-out" in the bathroom (where three sides of the tub where against the outside block walls and a window) so there was a removable panel in the front where installer could make the plumbing connections, and I could get in if I needed to do any work.
 

big_rat

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Ok got it. I will use glue fittings and just put the drywall back. When I fit everything together, is the best test to fill up the tub to the overflow and check every joint? How much time should I test before I call it good?

My other issue I've just realized is my long turn elbow for the toilet may not work out. It is sticking about 1/2" above the floor and I was planning to put a 3" toilet flange into it. The toilet flange nick is only a couple of inches long. The problem comes in because I am planning to install 1/2" plywood on top of the subfloor, floor leveling compound and then tile. This will add almost 1 1/2" of height. The neck on the toilet flange is not long enough to get through all that added height and I don't have enough room to couple a stub of pvc either to connect the elbow to the flange because the couplers are too big.

The only thing I can think of is to use a 4x3 toilet elbow because the neck on the 3" inside 4" outside flange is much longer than the 3" flange and should reach the 4x3 elbow even with all this added height. Is there another option out there? To they make 3" toilet flanges with longer necks?
 

big_rat

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What is a long reach outside flange? Can you show me an example? The 4" toilet flange that I have has a longer neck than the 3" one, is that considered a long reach outside flange?

Anything wrong with my idea to use a 4x3 closet elbow (like this one http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-3...ub-Street-Closet-Elbow-C48072CLHD43/100347468) and using the 4" toilet flange? I read some posts on this forum that this is something that can be done in my situation. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/long-sweep-versus-short-sweep-question.39665/

I like glueing my pipes to each other to be sure they won't leak. Do you find the push in flanges reliable? It is imperative that I don't have a leak because below is a finished room. Thanks.
 

Plumber01

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Regarding your toilet flange issue-

Use a 4x3 closet bend. Glue a short section of 4" pipe into the closet bend that sticks up a few inches above finish floor. After finish floor is complete, cut 4" pipe flush with floor. Use a 4x3 toilet flange, it will glue inside the 4" pipe. Done.

EDIT: Yes, the 4x3 closet bend you linked will work too. Its a 4x3 spigot closet bend. Almost exactly as I described above, that specific fitting eliminates the step of gluing a piece of 4" pipe into a 4x3 closet bend. If that fitting doesn't get you high enough to finish floor, use the method I described above.
 
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Reach4

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I am not a plumber. Choosing the right bend sounds like the deal if you are not already glued into place.

The Push-tite is going to be easier for a novice once things are glued in place, since you can adjust the height easily within its limits.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Ch...inless-Steel-Swivel-Ring-4-Tailpiece-3-Inside

http://www.ipscorp.com/plumbing/watertite/closetflanges/longclosetflange
Note that has a tail the same diamenter as a pipe.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html#unique
A metal ring is better, but many use PVC rings successfully.
 

big_rat

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Thanks I love the idea about using the 4x3 and having the pipe stick up above the finished floor. That will make life a lot easier.
 

big_rat

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Should I be cleaning the copper corrosion on the outside of the pipes before I finish the walls? There do not appear to be leaks.
 
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