bathroom layout right or wrong pics included

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by itmyfault, Oct 27, 2013.

  1. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Hey everyone I am working on remodeling our bathroom. I have spent the last few days getting the first part of the drain lines relocated. I wanted to get some input on how I am doing so far. I have been reading the UPC 2006 code book which is the code for my city.
    I know I got a little carried away on the primer in places!
    What you see is the lav drain connecting into the WC branch. The WC branch connects into the main drain. The lav will be wet vent the WC. Proved I understood the code and did it correctly.
    Thanks for the input.
    Billy

    Attached Files:

  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,124
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    That looks good.
    The santee for the lav can be a 2" x 2" x 1.5" with the 1.5" pointing out for the lav.

    If this bathroom is at the end of the run and needs a cleanout, I sometimes bring up the vent under the lave with a 3", 3" cleanout tee, and have the 2" for the vent and lav waste above that.
    By end of the run, you can be within five feet of a line with a cleanout, and you don't have to add one.

    It looks like you understood what you were reading.
  3. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    South*East
    Looks good Billy. What would make it easer would be if you used a 4 x 3 ell for the toilet, with the 4" coming up through the floor. That way the closet flange would fit inside the pipe instead of over it.
    Terry you got me by one minute.

    John
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,124
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    That's my favorite method too. :)
  5. Hammerlane

    Hammerlane Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Ohio
    Looks like Terrys horizontal wet vent diagram that he posted yesterday on another thread.

    Attached Files:

  6. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Thanks Terry I appreciate your thumbs up. I tend to research stuff to death according to my wife. I spend countless hours on the internet and reading books. I then spent an afternoon at the code enforcement office going over things with the inspector. I wanted to do it once and do it right.

    The main line runs at perpendicular to the WC line shown. The WC line connects to the main by a 3 wye combo. This was the orginal WC line originally and I just extended 3 ft to the other side of the room along with the lav.

    The main runs straight through the house from the back wall to the street. There is a cleanout located on the back of the house at the end of the main. I was stuck on whether to add a cleanout or not. The inspector told me I didn't have to have one. Do you think I should add one here?

    I went back and forth on using a all 2" tee or the 2x1.5 tee. I actually bought both. The original plumber used a all 2" tee and a reducer. I just decided to copy what was there.
    My wife says it is because I am "anal retentive" whatever that may mean.

    Oh yeah I did use the 3 x 4 WC elbow. I discovered that little jewel when I dug at the old WC location! I like the inside mount too.
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2013
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,124
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Then I would go with that.

    We have a lot of that here :)
  8. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Thank you all for taking the time to give input on my "while we're at project."

    This is part 1 of the rough in. I now have a bathtub and separate shower to run pipe for. I will post the pics of that work when I get it put together.

    Billy
  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,831
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; if you used a 4 x 3 ell for the toilet, with the 4" coming up through the floor. That way the closet flange would fit inside the pipe instead of over it.

    I have ALWAYS used a 4x3 closet bend, but I also ALWAYS slide the flange down OVER the outside of the pipe. Anal retentive means you are full of poop..
  10. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Here is the proposed shower drain layout
    shower1.jpg
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2013
  11. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    I wanted to get some thoughts on my next connection layout before I glue it all together. I want this to work well AND be up to code. After digging everything up what I found was slightly different to what the builder told me.

    The code official told me to remember 2 main things.
    1. Don't over complicate things.
    2. Keep it simple and straight forward as possible.

    So this is my first attempt at adapting to what is there.
    View attachment 22124 View attachment 22125
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,124
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Looking good :)

    You can roll the wye so that the pipe lines up nice and square in the hubs.
    You may need to snap a bit of concrete off the corner there.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2013
  13. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    I am trying to get a layout for my shower line.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 30, 2013
  14. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Any advantages to inside or out? I guess should the flange every break it would be easier to replace???

    Aren't we all??!! Some just more than others!
  15. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    ok here is my final revised plain for the shower drain. How does this look?
    shower1.jpg
  16. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
  17. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,831
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; digging everything up what I found was slightly different to what the builder told me.

    That is because he told you the way HE thought it should have been installed, NOT how the plumber wanted to do it. The plumber usually wins. With the flange on the outside, you can install it first THEN cut the riser to fit flush with the top of it., but it is easier to replace if it were to deteriorate, OR at that time you can use one that slides inside the pipe and disregard the outside one. A "straight line" is always simpler than an angle, and follows the K.I.S.S. principle the inspector told you about.
  18. itmyfault

    itmyfault New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    Arkansas
    I would like to thank everyone for commenting on my plumbing work. The inspector was here Thursday and signed off on everything. He said they usually hate dealing with homeowners that do their own work because usually the most basic of things get messed up. Then again in my town the same inspector does electrical, plumbing and structure.

    He took one look at everything and said he could tell I had done my homework. I owe a big part of getting it right the first time to this forum.

    Now to fill the hole back in. I would much rather break concrete than fix it!

    Thanks again
    Billy
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