Bathroom DWV 1-1/4 Sanitary TEE?

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CenterTree

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In the middle of a bathroom redo.

Working on the sink/lav.
Got the (in wall, up through ceiling) 1-1/4 vent installed.
The vent will tie in at the top of the trap adapter via a sanitary tee. (in the wall cavity)

The P-trap is 1-1/4 and I have no choice but to run 1-1/4" drain at least down through the floor.
There is a floor joist almost directly under the wall plate where the vertical drain section needs to enter the basement. I can barely get a 1-1/4" down there.:(

I am having trouble finding a 1-1/4" SanTee locally. Two professional plumbing stores told me there is no such piece.
One place told me to just use a regular TEE.
I found a Sanitary Tee online, but for $10.17.:eek: and can't get it for a few days out.

Question: Is it a major (or code issue) problem to use a regular tee at that connection?

Thanks!


I will most likely take the drain line up to 1-1/2 after I get into the basement. Unless you guys suggest to just keep it at 1-1/4 all the way to the main.
 
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Terry

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I have never seen an ABS or PVC santee.
I think you are better off finding a way to get 1.5" through there.
Water fittings are not the same as waste fittings. If you have a problem later and you need to snake the line, it would be impossible.

4:16 PM
That doesn't read right. I mean I haven't seen 1-1/4" sized in those.
They do make them, or did on copper DWV fittings.
 
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CenterTree

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I have never seen an ABS or PVC santee.
I think you are better off finding a way to get 1.5" through there.
Water fittings are not the same as waste fittings. If you have a problem later and you need to snake the line, it would be impossible.
Thanks Terry.
1.5 is just NOT gonna fit unless I actually cut away the drywall from the adjoining kitchen wall.:mad:

I am confused though. I've seen a lot of schedule 40 sanitary Tees around.
Am I using the wrong terminology?:confused:
http://www.homedepot.com/s/sanitary%20tee?NCNI-5
http://www.shoprvparts.com/product/11775F/abs-sanitary-tee-t-waste-water.html

What type of TEE should be used in the wall at the junction between the p-trap arm and the vertical vent and the drop down drain to the basement?

Thanks.
 
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CenterTree

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Copper is a thought. However, those couplings would be wider than the PVC and too tight against the joist and wall cavity I suspect.

Here's a pic of how tight it is due to the basement joist being right under the bottom plate of the wall.
Joist.jpg


Drain hole.jpg
 
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Reach4

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Copper is a thought. However, those couplings would be wider than the PVC and too tight against the joist and wall cavity I suspect.
You would not put the couplings through the hole. You would attach bottom coupler from below, and upper coupler from above. A 12 inch piece of 1-1/2 inch copper pipe, for example, could tilt in the hole a lot more than you would need. A small tilt tilt would give a lot of clearance for the coupler against the joist.
 

Terry

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I would get around that with a 45.
I can't imagine ordering RV fittings for a home. The job would have been done with the standard residential fittings for a home. Not an RV camper.
 

CenterTree

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A couple 15 degree fittings for an offset.

I would get around that with a 45.

I can't seem to grasp how any type of "offset" would apply with the situation I have??
There is no room to get a larger 1-1/2" pipe down the hole due to the joist.
Where would I put an offset? All the drain piping is to be inside the wall cavity, yes,but it is the restricted hole that creates the problem.

I guess I will order the 1-1/4 sanitary Tee and hope that works. Lavatory drains are supposed to be 1-1/4 anyway, right?
http://www.co.lincoln.or.us/sites/d..._-_helpful_hints_residential_construction.pdf
 

Terry

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Using an offset is like opening a door a little wider. You think you need to hug that floor joist and be friendly with it. Sometimes a little distance is a good thing. You can shake hands at the drywall and then meander off at an angle and miss the responding handshake. If you need to drop down the wall below that, you can offset back and catch that wall too. If you are going dilly dally down the joist bay, you can get that way with a 90 and head off for the races.
 

Cacher_Chick

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There is nothing that states that the drain must be inside the wall. It could just as easily be inside the cabinet. You can jog it any which way with an offset to get it away from the joist. The offset is necessary only to keep the vent in the wall.
 

CenterTree

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There is nothing that states that the drain must be inside the wall. It could just as easily be inside the cabinet. You can jog it any which way with an offset to get it away from the joist. The offset is necessary only to keep the vent in the wall.
The bathroom will have a pedestal sink, so the drain cannot be in the bathroom.
The old bathroom (b4 tear down) actually had a through-the-floor S trap.:eek:

I am determined to get a P trap installed and have it in the wall. The room beyond the adjoining wall is the kitchen. The fridge sits back-to-back to where the bathroom sink will be.

So I am going to cut out the drywall directly behind the vertical drain pipe to get the clearance I need. I only need a small amount to get the pipe in and be vertically plumb. We shall see....
Thanks.
 

Cacher_Chick

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The bathroom will have a pedestal sink, so the drain cannot be in the bathroom.
The old bathroom (b4 tear down) actually had a through-the-floor S trap.:eek:

I am determined to get a P trap installed and have it in the wall. The room beyond the adjoining wall is the kitchen. The fridge sits back-to-back to where the bathroom sink will be.

So I am going to cut out the drywall directly behind the vertical drain pipe to get the clearance I need. I only need a small amount to get the pipe in and be vertically plumb. We shall see....
Thanks.
Oops, I did not see that it was a pedestal install. I would install a copper drain, and transition back to PVC once I was away from the joist.
 
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