Bath and shower set installation

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by jf, Jun 30, 2008.

  1. jf

    jf New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Hi,
    I am installing an American Standard bath and shower set and have a few questions. 1st. The instructions are just about nonexistant and I just want to double check my thinking. The plaster guard says "finish wall maximum to this surface". So far so good but then it says min. 1 11/16 below. I would have taken this to mean below the finish wall as in toward the wall cavity. But looking at it, it would appear they mean proud of the finish wall, as in sticking out a (max) of 1 11/16 past the finished wall. There are no instructions that clarify. 2nd This valve uses srew in fittings, then I have to 90 down with sweat fittings. Do I need to remove the valve cartridge before I solder? Or is the threaded connector far enough away. 3rd. Is it best to use copper and a male connector for the tub spout or is this easier with galvanized pipe? The spout is a screw on.

    Thanks for any input.
    Jim
  2. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Oh boy! With Am. Std. you just might get to try this more than once...
    I don't install them any more too much defective product.

    I could get into explaining this depth situation but lets just stop a minute and toss that plaster guard aside...

    kinda put it together with the trim and handle and all and look at the range of depths that it can be set at and aim for where it looks best to you. Seeing in this manner is better than I or those dumb instructions could ever explain it.

    What ever you do you do not want to use galv. nipples for the spout use copper or, brass.

    If this is your first big plumbing project you may want to hire a pro. This is not the easiest job to cut you DIYer teeth on.
  3. jf

    jf New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Thanks for the reply Redwood. Doing what you suggested is how I came to the conclusion that the instructions didn't make sense, You are making me nervous about American Standard. If the installation goes well are they still prone to problems? I picked this set because it had both volume and temp control and the style fit the bath well. I have asked at several plumbing supplies why the companies quit making them this way but no one seems to have an answer. Before I found this set I thought it might have something to do with the pressure balance mechanism.

    The problem I see with using copper for the spout is getting it to line up screwing it on the male adapter. Is this not a problem? Do plumbing supply houses have the brass nipples in several lengths? HD only has a couple of short ones.

    Also I would appreciate some input to my soldering question. I have replaced all the plumbing in my house including the waste/vent - total kitchen and bath renovation. This is the last of it. With a little guidance from this site I should be fine. Thanks for the concern.
  4. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Sorry if my comments about Am. Std. make you nervous but I have experienced a very high rate of defects on their whole product line!

    My preferences would be Delta or Moen.

    On the any good hardware store or, plumbing supply house should have a wide assortment of brass nipples. I would suggest using 2 of them and a coupling to make up the distance. It will give you the most leeway in getting the depth set and the spout facing the right direction.
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,129
    Location:
    New England
    On the plaster guard...it must stick out of the FINISHED wall somewhere between the min/max lines, or the trim won't fit. Most don't like it sticking out huge amounts. It is the projection from the wall that the min/max lines represent.

    Any new construction or remodel requires pressure balanced or thermstatically controlled shower valves. I prefer the thermostatically controlled valve...set it once to your preference, then never again; only need to use the volume control. Many people make both types. I've got a Grohe valve at home that has been working well for the last 5-years (and I hope it lasts much longer!). The body is solid brass and weighs a ton. Delta has a good rep. Not always, but price does matter some - part of it is for style (which can be overpriced), but there is a minimum that is required for decent parts. Some (most?) of the designer names are somewhat overpriced and spend more on style than function.

    Many valves with threaded inlets will also allow you to insert a pipe and solder it it...try a piece of pipe to see if it will fit inside...that would give you the most secure connection.
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