Basic Tub Drain Question

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by SteveSmith98, Mar 23, 2009.

  1. SteveSmith98

    SteveSmith98 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Hi,

    I'm going to be replacing my alcove-style tub with a different alcove style tub.

    I plan to install a tub without an apron, and then tile an apron myself. This is so I can make all the drain connections from the side of the tub where the apron would be. I don't have access from below.

    My question is about the waste/overflow connection to the drain/P-Trap. Specifically, how do they connect?

    I would have assumed that I'd use solvent to permanently connect the two pipes. But, I've come across suggestions that a slip-nut (Is that the right term? The compression joint that connect to my sink drain basket to it's drain) or even a flexible coupling could be used.

    What's common? What's recommended?

    Once it's connected, it'll be sealed up with no access panel. I'm surprised I could be allowed to use anything other than a permanent bonded connection. I'm in Ontario, Canada for code-purposes. Existing drain plumbing is all ABS.

    Thanks!

    -Steve
  2. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    I would not use anything "flex" although Watco now has a line of "speed-flex" tub drains. I have not put my hands on one, so I don't know.

    Slip joint connections are common, but not allowed by some codes.

    All glue-up is more tedious, but the most secure. Requires better access to assemble.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 29, 2012
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,990
    Location:
    New England
    Don't know the code for Canada...

    There are ways to make the apron removeable. It gets heavy with all of the tile, but possible. You don't need to make the whole thing removeable, either. You can get matching caulk. www.schluter.com makes some magnets that are designed to be attached when tiling that hold it in place, then if you use the color matched caulk rather than grout you can get it out later without destroying the apron...cut the caulk, then lift off the panel.

    FWIW, they installed my tub with slip connectors...I don't think that is a problem, but you need to check with the local inspectors. The trap is solvent glued to the waste pipe - only the connections to it are screwed to it.
  4. SteveSmith98

    SteveSmith98 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Tub Drain

    jadnashua: I cheated in my description on the apron a bit. I do fully intend to make the apron removable, held on by caulk and possibly a concealed cleat.

    I'm less concerned about being able to get to the drain, than I am about it never leaking to begin with (will ruin my living-room ceiling).

    I'll probably have to cut a slightly larger access hole under the tub than usual, but I think working from the tub side I should be ok for getting the drain connections done - solvent or slip. No?

    -Steve
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,990
    Location:
    New England
    Working from the side is fine, slip couplings are fine. How often does your sink drain leak? Those are slip fittings...Do it right the first time, then leave it alone. Now, if the tub can flex...you could have problems, but take care of that during installation by bedding the tub properly, and it isn't an issue.
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