Basement Shower Remodel (with pictures)

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mdsnj

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Hi Guys,

I'm remodeling my basement shower due to water damage and plan on using the Kerdi shower drain So, I was wondering if I could get some advise on a few plumbing concerns. I've done basic plumbing in the past, but nothing on this scale and for that reason, I'm contemplating hiring a professional.

I've attached pictures of my concrete slab and drain. I believe this is a CI pipe. I want to replace the trap and reposition the drain in the center of the shower. The slab slopes from where the drain is now (high point) to the opposite wall (bottom of picture).

My questions:

1) Is there a reason why this drain was set close to the shower head side of the wall and not in the center from the beginning? This was never a bath.

2) Does it look like it would even be possible to move this drain to the center?

3) Is it safe to assume the trap is on the side of the drain that is closest to the bottom of the picture?

Also, I have concerns about that copper pipe in the corner of the wall.

4) Is this a vent?

5) It looks like there is water damage on the joint of that pipe. Is it possible for a vent to leak?

6) Should that joint be replaced?

Many Thanks!
 

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hj

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It was put there because it was the easiest way to do it. There is no leak, it is merely oxidation from the moisture caused by the leaking shower.
 

mdsnj

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Hi guys,

Thanks for your reply hj. Is that oxidation bad enough for me to request my plumber replace it?

So I chiseled out some of the slab and found this mess. As you can see, the slab was poured right on top of the CI pipe. I'm not sure if that's going to be a problem when I pour concrete back in. Is there any more I can do to make this job easier for the plumber?

Many Thanks!
 

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mdsnj

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Is it possible to mount a shower faucet within 1x3's or does it have to be 2x4's? I need to match up against an existing 1x3 framed wall.

Also, is it true that if I purchase, say a Moen x model faucet at HD and the same model x at a plumbing supply store, the one from the HD will be made of inferior parts?

Many Thanks!
 

Jadnashua

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If the part numbers are identical, includig all of the - numbers, they should be the same. Often, the same model may be available at a big box store, but the - number will be different, and then that can happen. Rumor also has it that to get the price, the big box stores opt out for some of the QA/QC checks, and leave that to the customer. A plumbing supply house dealing with a pro doesn't want returns for defective products, but it is considered normal practice at a big box store.

I think Schluter now has a transition drain assembly that can be attached to the CI. You'll want to check on that if you aren't moving the CI. If you are, I'd cut it off and use PVC or ABS. Make sure that you specify the right drain when you order, as you can't use the PVC one on ABS, and vice versa.

I think you may be hard pressed to get a valve to fit in a thin wall. If you do, you'll have a lot of the handle sticking out in the shower, a look most people don't like. Often, there's a min/max depth specification on the data sheet. I'd check there first. it will depend somewhat on how thick your wall/tile sandwich is. If it is close, you could use 5/8" drywall behind the Kerdi which would give you an extra 1/8". Keep in mind also that those thinner walls won't be as strong as a normal 2/4 studwall. It could be a problem for the tile if someone were to fall against that wall. movement is death to tile. the Kerdi should stay intact, though.
 
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