Basement Bath rough in

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by iwillattemptanything, Nov 13, 2009.

  1. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    Hello all,

    This is my first post on the site, hopefully I am as clear and thorough as I need to be. I am adding a basement 1/2 bath to my 1945 split level in Stratford, CT. I have seen a couple posts on here of basically the same thing in which guys post pics of their pipe layout and the experts critique the layout. I thought I would save myself the embarrassment of configuring the sink and toilet drains/vents in a ridiculous non-functional way. Instead I have attached two drawings of what I currently have in hopes that one of you experts would post how you would lay out the pipes.

    Attached Files:

  2. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    Just got home. Thought it would be a good idea to upload real pictures rather than my terrible drawings.

    Attached Files:

  3. shacko

    shacko Master Plumber-Gas Fitter

    Messages:
    561
    Location:
    Rosedale, Md
    Your main prob. will be where are you going to run the vent? it has to connect above any fixture on the upper floors. Where do you want to rough-in the fixtures? next to the pipe sticking out of the wall? :confused:
  4. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    I am going to be fraiming the wet wall in front of the pipes coming out of the wall and the vertical main drain line. I will then have a gap behind that new wall in which I am hoping to run the vent pipe.
  5. dcelite

    dcelite Plumber

    Messages:
    132
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    1) you can drain the sink into the existing pipe above slab which will be behind your new wall.
    2) As for the toilet, after you build the wall, will the toilet (closet flange) be directly over the 4" drain in the ground?
  6. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    The toilet can be but does not have to be directly over the 4" drain pipe. I will do whatever is more efficient.
  7. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    OK. I had some time today so I have laid out the pipes. Please take a look and let me know what I have done wrong. The toilet drain is 3" PVC and the lav drain is 2". The vent out the top of the lav tee will be 2".

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Attached Files:

  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,245
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Dwv

    Is this all going to be above the floor? Unless I am seeing incorrectly, that existing combo on the horizontal drain, is being reduced from 2" to 1 1/2" before it continues to the corner. If so, then at least part of the existing plumbing was done by a DIYer or handyman. If you have the elevation to do it, (that elbow below the toilet is not the correct one for that location, it should be a "long turn" 90), that piping you show will work. You may have to waste a lot of space making room for it in the wall however. In other words, it is not how I might do it, but I would have to be there to see the best way.
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2009
  9. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    Thanks for the reply HJ.

    Most of the pipes will be below the slab. The 2" drain for the lav will come through the slap at the wet wall and the toilet drain will come up straight through the floor.

    I took a closer picture of the 3" 90 for the toilet. You were saying this should be a Long Turn 90 instead? I thought that is what it was. What should I look for that is different?

    The existing pipe does go from 2" to 1.5" will the inspector nail me for that even if I don't tie into it?

    Thanks again for the help.

    Attached Files:

  10. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,245
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    elbow

    They do not make street long radius elbows, or at least I have never heard of one. That is a standard/medium radius bend which is okay if you were going horizontally and then dropped down vertically, but not the opposite as you are doing. As for the 2" to 1 1/2" reduction, he should because even though it is existing, it was NEVER a proper connection and therefore would not have been approved if it had been inspected.
  11. iwillattemptanything

    iwillattemptanything New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Stratford, CT
    Can I switch the 3"x2" wye just above the 3" 90 with a 3"x2 tee? I am having an issue with floor clearance and the tee would make my life a lot easier.
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,245
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    tee

    Since that is also the drain from a sink, the tee would work, otherwise no.
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