Baseboard heating replacement

Discussion in 'Boiler Forum' started by sharkey, Feb 6, 2009.

  1. sharkey

    sharkey New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Hello. I came upon this board recently and am hoping for some help on a kitchen re-model project in my home. I am planning to re-locate one of my baseboard heater sections but I need to understand what I need to do as far as draining the system properly and venting when the heater is re-located. I have a Weil McLain boiler, Single circulator and 4 isolation valves. My system uses a closed type expansion tank with an Airtrol vent mounted to the tank bottom. Now I don't have any problems removing and re-connecting the baseboard heating unit itself, but I would appreciate help on how best to prep the system for section removal and then how to bleed the system of air once re-installed. Thank-you for your help.

    Mike Klein
  2. Bill Arden

    Bill Arden Computer Programmer

    Messages:
    584
    Location:
    MN, USA
    Disclaimer: I'm not an expert...

    Removal.
    1. turn off boiler. You don't want hot water.

    2. drain water, but don't worry about draining it all since you don't want to let lots of air into the system. The more air in the system the more it will rust.

    3. Have a bucket when you disconnect the register since you will get more water.

    4. Tape pipe ends to keep dirt out of the system.

    Install
    1. Connect pipes.
    2. Add water.
    3. remove air.

    Removing the air is the hard part.
    You either
    1. vents and/or Valves at all the high points of the system
    2. vacuum pump.
    3. Enough water flow in the system to draw air bubbles to the air Airtrol vent.
  3. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    Usually there are purge and balance valves on the return piping from the zones and that is where you get the air out.
  4. sharkey

    sharkey New Member

    Messages:
    2
    It gets better.

    The plot thickens. I was investigating the boiler last night and discover the leaking pressure reducing valve! Looks like I can isolate both sides of the valve with ball valves that are in place, uncouple at the check valve upstream, unscrew and replace. Looks like I also need a dielectric union for the plumbing on the downsteam end?

    One other question: In the second picture, what is the large, tall valve underneath the 4 shutoff valves?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,304
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    valve

    IT is a FloControl valve, basically a check valve with a handle on top which can be turned to keep it open in an emergency. The black pipe to the PRV should never have been installed, and you do not need a dielectric union, you need galvanized pipes. The valve on the tank is to allow you to drain it. When you connect a hose to the tank's drain valve and open it, you then loosen/unscrew the small plug on the end of the AirTrol fitting and that allows air to enter the top of the tank letting the water drain out.
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