Ball valves - are they created equal?

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by lurch, Jun 17, 2009.

  1. lurch

    lurch New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    NJ
    I need to replace my 3/4" main shutoff ball valve as
    1. the handle is rusting through
    2. on a recent pipe replacement job there was a small amount of leakage (maybe this is normal)
    3. I want to upgrade my main supply through the house to 3/4" - and I'm not sure if trying to attach a 3/4" male fitting to this valve will work.

    I have 2 in my possession - a chinese Matco and an Italian Mueller - both sweat. My plumber swears by Watts and as this is a pretty important valve - I'd very much appreciated the learned opinions on this forum as to what they would install.

    Also - my current valve is a compression - I would like to replace with a sweat fitting - is this advisable? I'm in NJ and I'm assuming the main pipe inlet is thicker copper.

    Attached Files:

  2. kingsotall

    kingsotall Plunger/TurdPuncher

    That's a compression valve. Wow. Showing my greeness. Never seen a valve like that.

    Your plumber seems to be spot on with his choice. Trust the man.
  3. cwhyu2

    cwhyu2 Consultant

    Messages:
    1,330
    Location:
    Cincinnati OH
    That is an IPS valve.
  4. lurch

    lurch New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    NJ
    yep - its not a compression - just a threaded valve.

    Seems I have 2 choices - try to remove the threaded reducer fitting at the top to replace with a 3/4 straight male

    or

    get the water shut -off and replace the whole valve

    any suggestions?
  5. BAPlumber

    BAPlumber Plumber

    Messages:
    227
    Location:
    Vashon, Washington
    wouldn't any solution be just as easy?

    Shutting off the ball valve, cutting the copper, unscrewing fitting from the valve, screwing in new copper mip adapter and pipe?

    Shutting off city line/meter, cutting copper, sweating on new ball valve, sweating on new 3/4" tubing?

    of the valves you have, I'd use the Mueller.
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2009
  6. SewerRatz

    SewerRatz Illinois Licensed Plumber

    Messages:
    1,706
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    The valve still works? Does it leak? If it works and is not leaking why not jsut change the handle and nut? If you can not find a new handle just take the old one off can clean it up and hit it up with some rustoleum.
  7. lurch

    lurch New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    NJ
    Thanks for your reply Brent - your probably right - its just in my town they want $60 to shut off the water at the street - the access point is visible (and brand new - as they had to replace and test it last fall)

    Not only is it the money - its syncing up with the water guys to get them out on a weekday at the right time.

    If I could turn it off myself.... - I would go for the new valve
  8. lurch

    lurch New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    NJ
    How long do these valves last? - and is there no risk that it leaks from the handle? And it doesn't leak from the valve - but when I shut it off the other day - it did leak a very small amount of water - so the normal operation is OK - but the shut off is not 100%.
  9. kordts

    kordts In the Trades

    Messages:
    551
    Location:
    exurban Chicago
    If ya don't mind getting wet, shut off that valve, cut the pipe coming out of the top. Get a new threaded 3/4" ball valve and put pipe dope on the threads and open it. Spin the old valve off, spin the new valve on, as soon as one thread is caught, close the valve and wrench it on tight. Then you can do whatever else needs to be done.
  10. gardner

    gardner DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Ontario
    The valve may be tight to the wall -- would have to bend the tubing outward a bit to get clearance to spin the valve.

    Rather than getting wet, I might be tempted to try to form an ice plug using a couple of bags of dry ice and ethanol around the pipe half way between the floor and valve. I have no experience with professional ice-plug gear, bit it doesn't look *that* complicated.

    I bet that even with the street valve off there will be some small amount of flow, making sweating a bit hard.

    In our town it's $70 per visit and usually you're talking about one visit to cut off the water, and a separate one to turn it back on. I understand you have to know the city worker pretty well and do some slick talking to get her to hang around for 20 mins while you do your work.
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2009
  11. shacko

    shacko Master Plumber-Gas Fitter

    Messages:
    561
    Location:
    Rosedale, Md
    Replacing Valve


    If you know where the access point is why don't you shut off the water yourself? I won't tell.;)
  12. BAPlumber

    BAPlumber Plumber

    Messages:
    227
    Location:
    Vashon, Washington
    twenty bucks cash usually will do the trick.
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