Backwash Filtration System

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by sparker, Jan 5, 2009.

  1. sparker

    sparker New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Hey guys,

    I was wondering if anyone would recommend a multimedia backwash filter to treat colloidal clay in a private well? I installed a ge last march but I have to replace the filter (25 micron) every three weeks. Thanks
  2. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    If you draw a glass of water, I take it is dirty, right?

    If it's dirty and you set it down, how long does it take to clear?

    What color is the dirt?

    How much iron is in the water?

    What is the pH?
  3. sparker

    sparker New Member

    Messages:
    17
    When I draw from a tap the water comes out cloudy with a slight orangish hue, settling after about 4-5 min. Last year I had the water tested. Findings included presence of iron, sediments, a pH slightly on the acidic side. Toilet tanks are stained orange, as well as the inside of my dishwasher. If shower stalls aren't cleaned weekly they stain as well. We noticed this our first night in the house, despite the previous owner not disclosing these problems. Well was constructed in 2001. Six inch casing at a depth of 200 ft. So I assumed about 170 ft of water somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 gal. About a month ago I shocked using 2 gal of bleach, but that hasn't seemed to help much. Thanks for your input.
  4. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Then you have an iron problem, not "colloidal clay".

    Exactly how much iron?

    What is the pH exactly?

    Exactly how much hardness is in the water?
  5. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    You need to get a potability test from a local certified lab. Once you get the results you should post them and that way you can get suggestions on how to properly treat your water. Take the sample before any water filters so get a raw water analysis.

    sammy

    www.tylerwellandpump.com
  6. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Anyone that does iron, pH and hardness tests is good enough accuracy. There is no reason to spend a bunch of money to a certified lab. Pump and plumbing supply houses, Sears, county extension offices etc. will usually do these tests for a few bucks or free.

    Or buy a test kit and do them yourself.
  7. sammyhydro11

    sammyhydro11 Previous member

    Messages:
    709
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    yeah forget everything else in a potability test. God what was i thinking? Coliform, ecol i,nitrates,turbidity,sodium,manganese,tds, etc. Screw all of that! especially the nitrates! I just hope the guy doesn't have any new borns or younger children. But what does that matter? He's just a naive customer that has no clue about water treatment. Gary you need to keep in mind that people actually drink well water. God forbid someone gives these people good advice!

    sammy

    www.tylerwellandpump.com
  8. sparker

    sparker New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Thanks. I'll get the numbers and post back.

    Scott
  9. sparker

    sparker New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Here's what I got:

    Iron 3 PPM
    Chlorine 0 PPM
    PH 5
    Hardness 50 PPM
    Alkalinity 0
    Copper 3 PPM
    Nitrate 0 PPM
    Nitrite 0 PPM

    I think the pH and copper are what concern me most.
  10. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    You have extremely acidic water, high iron and copper. The copper will go away IF you treat the low pH unless you have copper tubing to or from the pressure tank and then to an acid neutralizing filter or solution filter.

    If you use a backwashed sacrificial mineral AN filter, it will raise the pH and that will cause some of the iron to be oxidized and prevent the copper that is being added to your water now and also add a fair amount of hardness to the water. So you probably would want a water softener.

    If you used a solution feeder, the water may be not so 'nice' because of having to use so much soda ash. And IMO solution feeders are a PIA and require a lot of baby sitting and tend to never really work well; especially for pH control.
  11. sparker

    sparker New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Thanks Gary. I've been researching a few softeners. Is there a particular brand you would recommend?

    In all likelihood it will have to be installed in the attic, near the water heater, as there is only about 24" of clearance in the crawl space. Thanks for the input!
  12. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Well yes I can, you should buy it from me and we'll call it Gary's Superduper no name Water Softener but... you also need an AN filter.

    I've had other customers install in an attic but it would scare me to death to have a water heater and softener etc. in an attic.
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