Automatic water shutoff valves

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by prashster, Jan 22, 2008.

  1. prashster

    prashster New Member

    Messages:
    941
    I'm looking at installing either Watercop or Floodstop as an automatic shutoff valve for my house's water supply (to minimize wheater/sump/sewage pump leaks).

    The Floodstop system is not wireless like Watercop, but it's under $200 for a complete system vs. $400 for Watercop.

    Any comments/experience?
  2. Ian Gills

    Ian Gills Senior Robin Hood Guy

    Messages:
    2,777
    Location:
    USA
    I have had a few false alarms with the Floodstop, especially in areas that are prone to get damp like the bathroom.

    So I would be wary about the whole house supply being cut-off from one sensor, which might occur with a wireless system.

    With the floodstop, the wires are also a bit messy, especially in locations where they cannot be easily hidden (behind a vanity for example).

    So there are pros and cons to both. Without the risk of false alarms I would be tempted to go wireless.
  3. prashster

    prashster New Member

    Messages:
    941
    Not sure how well the wireless signal'd work from my 2nd floor to the basement.

    Anybody have a recomendation on on a Zoeller sewage pump? I'm thinking to replace my (don't laugh) Flotec.
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2008
  4. mikept

    mikept DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    152
    Location:
    CT
    Keep it Simple. Get a dog, name it Lassie and train it to go go to shut off the water automatically.
  5. Zoeller sewage pumps are junk

    I presently have a customer that we are going to
    have to change out a two year old Zoeller sewage pump

    somehow one of my men got hold of one that had the pump
    and switch intergrated into one wire.....


    now they have to kick the damn pump to get it to work


    if the employee would have gotten a Zoeller with a
    separate float switch, it would never have gone out in two years....


    Now we got to go out and pull that pump and change it out..

    and do this work at a discount........

    get the two wire system and you will be happier abou it down the road...


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------


    as far as a SIMPLE way to shut of your water to your home
    while you are not there....,

    have you ever thought of just hooking up shut off
    valve that works on electricity and have it wired into your
    burgular alarm???

    when you turn on your alarm and leave your home,
    it automatically shuts off your water


    we have a dentist office that had the water line hooked up to the lights in the office....when they walk in and turn on the lights , it pressurizes the system, when they leave and hsut off the lights , it kills the water...
  6. prashster

    prashster New Member

    Messages:
    941
    Never thought of doing that. Where can I get an electric valve? Instead of wiring it to the burg alarm, can't I just wire it to a switch?
  7. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Zoeller and Liberty are fine pumps at a decent price. I would as Mark stated get one that did not have an integral switch.
  8. mikept

    mikept DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    152
    Location:
    CT
    Is there a manual bypass in case the power goes out? Or the valve breaks?


  9. That was episode #28

    Good one, the ending made me cry though when Lassie choked to death on a pork chop bone.

    Great thing is, they brought him back to life, saved a horse the very next week!
  10. mikept

    mikept DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    152
    Location:
    CT
    I dont remember that one , of course a few months after i was born in 85 McFly got in his flux capacitor equiped Delorean and traveled back to 55 and made some changes.
  11. Industrial valves....

    I wouldent have the slightest idea where one
    could be found...


    I would consider it more of an industiral level of plumbing.. medical fields....

    I could see a need for it in high rise office buildings
    with medical labs on the 30th floor ......hospitals ect...


    but if they make common zone valves to come and off for normal home boilers working of 24 volt , for over 50 years.

    its not much of a leap .to find something to be wired up in either 24v or 110v for a main valve for the home or office..


    I would guess it will cost you $$
  12. mikept

    mikept DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    152
    Location:
    CT

    Yes but whats the big difference between hitting an electrical switch and turning a valve lever?


    Not more than a watercop or floodstop?
  13. fidodie

    fidodie New Member

    Messages:
    94
    Location:
    new jersey
    Look at these devices - they have remote mount panels..
    not sure if you have a 3/4" main or 1"..

    if it is 3/4...

    http://www.smarthome.com/71152.html

    You could also put some sensors at most likely trouble spots -
    there is a washing machine kit, 3/8 compression kit (ice maker,
    under sink water heater, etc)

    p
  14. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Does anyone make a "circuit breaker" sort of valve that would automatically close if a high flow rate developed and continued for a set time?
  15. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Yes, Watts makes a line of "Floodsafe" supply lines for sinks, dishwashers, icemakers, toilets and washing machines. I do not recommend them as they are prone to false trips, and I have seen the Chinese connectors fail. Funny thing seeing a flooded house and the connector just before the safety valve blown apart... I'll Pass!
  16. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,631
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    valve

    You can either use any normally closed valve and use the switch to open it when you are home. It will automatically close if there is a power failure. Or you can use a more expensive normally open valve and use the switch to close it when you leave. It will reopen during a power failure.
  17. prashster

    prashster New Member

    Messages:
    941
    Thanks all.
    I'm gonna go with Floodstop.
    I want something to a) stop the shower or sink if the sewage pump fails, b) cut the waterheater if it leaks, c) cut the water supply if the condensate pumps by the furnaces fail. These things might happen while someone is at home.

    I'm most concerned about (c) because during the winter, my humidifiers run quite a bit and generate a phenomenal amount of overflow water :(. The furnace and pump are near the base of a shower.

    Remembering to turn off the water every time I go out doesn't seem feasible, especially since I do want the humids to keep on working while I'm away for the day.
  18. prashster

    prashster New Member

    Messages:
    941
    Any preferences for the Zoeller M267 vs the M264? THis is for an occasional use bathroom
  19. Mikey

    Mikey Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek

    Messages:
    2,714
    Location:
    Central Florida
    I had a fitting on the water softener fracture a few years ago ("professionally" installed using plastic female pipe thread fittings). Fortunately it happened just as I was walking out at 5AM to get the paper. I heard the well pump start for no good reason and walked over to the pumphouse and saw water running out from under the door. This was not good, so I turned off power at the house, made repairs, and was good to go before my wife had to take her morning shower. If it had happened at any other time, I would have had lots of problems to fix instead of just a bad fitting.

    So, what I'd like would be something that would detect a high flow rate at the pump and shut off a valve right there. There are several criteria that could be used to define "high flow rate", so lots of sensors and a programmable gizmo would be nice.
  20. prashster

    prashster New Member

    Messages:
    941
    My humidifiers drain into the pit. During the winter, they fill the tank 5-10 times a day. No joke. (what a waste!!!)

    I'm not sure why flow rate would indicate anything. If the pump's working, then the flow rate is irrelevant. It's the flood level that needs to be monitored.
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