Archer tub by Kohler

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Geo422, Feb 12, 2012.

  1. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    Hi I am taking out my steel tub that is rusting on me and thinking of
    Replacing it with the archer tub
    .my question is does the acrylic hold up ? It in the guest bathroom.
    Another I was looking at the bellwether cast iron tub by kohler
    My house is 9 years old would the floor hold the weight?
    Thanks geo

    [​IMG]
    Kohler Archer acrylic tub
    60" x 32" x 19"

    [​IMG]

    Kohler Bellwether cast iron tub
    60"L x 32"W x 15-1/2"H
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2012
  2. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    South*East
    Cast Iron is always the better choice. Unless you have very substandard construction the floor should hold the weight of a cast iron tub.

    John
  3. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    My wife picked the archer tub . Question the tub has wood on the bottom of it
    Does this wood come off before I set it in mortar?
    Kohler could have answer this in the installation guide
    Thanks George
  4. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,932
    Location:
    New England
    The wood is probably moulded in and is intended to stay there.
  5. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    Thanks that what I was thinking also but wanted to check
  6. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    One more question the 3 wall adcove is 601/2 inches the tub is 60 all water
    Pipes is out of the way what is the trick to getting tub in? Down to the bare studs . Thanks george
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,915
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The tub can be rotated in if the drywall is off the walls.
    I put a 2x4 ledger on the back wall, and shim the apron if needed. Small piles of mortar allow squishing out to let the tub drop down and gain some support.
  8. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    Got it in figure it out thanks George
  9. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    Terry thanks , do I just ignore the wood feet when I set it in mortar making sure the tub is level ?each of the wooden
    feet is different height
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2012
  10. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    The feet are an inch or more different the feet on the no drain
    end is higher. George
  11. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,915
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I tend to ignore the feet if they aren't at the right height.
    If you slide it in and it fits flush to the floor with no rocking, then you can't really improve on that.
    But if the feet are not touching, then using mortar or something like it helps. Kohler mentions shimming the feet, but have they tried doing that? You would need access around the tub to place shims "just so".

    Update in March of 2013
    For some reason this Archer tub fit in perfectly without any shims. Good job Kohler!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can't see the p-trap very well in this shot, but it's there.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2013
  12. Hackney plumbing

    Hackney plumbing Homeowner

    Messages:
    1,174
    Location:
    Alabama
    If your using mortar you should use 1-2". It says to use construction adhesive if installed otherwise. The last Kohler tub I installed we used shims and construction adhesive,it was a drop in air tub. All in all I like the Kohler tubs. Nice choice.
  13. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    Got the ledger board in tub is solid will put mortar mix in tomorrow night
    Wife pick out the archer 2 piece toilet that
    Tub and toilet takes up a lot of space.
    Terry thanks for the forum and everyone for advice they gave. George
  14. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,522
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    The feet should be different lengths because the bottom of the tub slopes. The "no drain" end is higher so the legs are longer.
  15. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    The tub is in mortar base ,ledger board perfect level in all direction
    For the life of me can not figure out the furring strips on the studs that kohler says to do. Seems like it would cause the green board and tile to be uneven with the drywall . Thanks george
  16. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    Would you plumbers suggest changing out the showers tub rough in valve ? This on is a moen that we have it has been in since November 2003 when we built the house. Heck I don't know the life of these.george
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 2, 2012
  17. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,932
    Location:
    New England
    The rough-in valve will likely outlive you, but the replacment parts are just that, replaceable. What might be a consideration is the trim, as not all trim, even from the same manufacturer, will fit older valves, and you may not have choices. While there are some aftermarket places making trim for common valves, not everyone, and no, another valve maker's trim won't fit.

    So, unless you want to upgrade the trim, and you can't get it from the manufacturer, or you want some new features not available on what you have, it's likely safe to leave it. Most Moen stuff has a lifetime warranty to the original owner. The cartridges contain the 'working' parts, and that can usually be changed fairly easily. Some Moen valves can be difficult to get the old one out due to mineral deposits, etc, but with the right tools, it's not a big deal.

    But, while the walls are open, you'll never have an easier/cheaper chance to update it to something new, if you wish.
  18. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,244
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    Not sure what your plan is, but green board is pretty much a thing of the past is is not recommended for a tub/shower surround.

    There are a couple ways to do the wall. One is to notch the studs so that the tub's tiling flange is flush. The other is to fir out the studs above the tub so that the wallboard/cement board comes out over the tile flange. It is pretty common to leave a sizable gap between the tub deck and the wallboard and then just tile over it. Make sure your vapor barrier overlaps the tile flange so the moisture does not run behind the tub.
  19. Geo422

    Geo422 New Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Cin oh
    So to be on the safe side and use cement board in the tub area
    Come to think about it the green board I just tore out felt like it had moisture in it . If cement board isn't the correct and best choice let me know vapor barrier is behind the tub and goes down to floor . Thanks george
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2012
  20. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,932
    Location:
    New England
    The current national codes no longer allow greenboard (moisture resistant drywall) in a shower or tub surround. That does not mean that your local codes have been updated, but regardless, it doesn't work well. I'd use cbu (cementeous backer unit...aka cement board). While it does get wet, moisture doesn't hurt it. Ideally, it laps over the tiling flange, but you can stop it above the flange as long as the tile will be supported by at least 1/2 on the cbu. Do put in a vapor barrier behind it and lap that over the flange, though. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on taping the seams with the alkalai resistant mesh tape (looks like the stuff used for drywall, but different material).
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