Anyone tried a Fluidmaster waxless adapter on Toto?

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by rsmith99, Dec 1, 2008.

  1. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    I am getting ready to buy either an Ultramax or Gwyneth toilet.
    Has anyone used the Fluidmaster waxless adapter on either of these toilets?

    Thanks!
    Ron
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,770
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    [​IMG]
    Fluidmaster waxless seal on the bottom of a Toto.

    We push the Fluidmaster waxless seal onto the bottom of the bowl first, and the drop the bowl down.
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,809
    Location:
    New England
    I used them on my two toilets because I needed to remove them a couple of times during remodeling to finish up the floors and keep things useable in between. They work fine. Just make sure you use the right seal for the diameter of the drain pipe.
  4. Probedude

    Probedude New Member

    Messages:
    137
    Location:
    CA
    What is the advantage to using this product?
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,809
    Location:
    New England
    Did you read my post? When remodeling, you sometimes have to install, remove, and reinstall a toilet a few times. Scrapping off the wax, getting a new one, and resetting the toilet is messy. The waxless can be reused numerous times. It can also help if the flange not quite level or recessed as the thing fits down into the throat of the drain line. My flanges were fine, but because I was trying to keep things useable as remodeling, painting, tiling, fixing the subfloor, etc. I chose the waxless. If you pipe is old cast iron, it might not seal well, so probably wouldn't be the best choice...there a wax ring is still king (and cheaper). The inside of the pipe needs to be fairly smooth and clean. If you were using something like a Caroma with a 3" internal trap, it probably wouldn't be a good idea as there'd be a restriction, but it is as big in diameter (bigger actually) than that in most toilets so hasn't presented a problem, at least for me.
  6. Probedude

    Probedude New Member

    Messages:
    137
    Location:
    CA
    Yep, read your post but still didn't see the advantage. Given the length it looks like it would get knocked off easily before you lowered it on the flange to the point the bolts came through. Also you cannot set the toilet down but have to lay it over on its side, no?
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,770
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    If you like wax, use wax.

    There are times when that long funnel comes in handy, some flanges are way too low.

    Some toilets like the Eljer Titan blow out wax seals. Fixes that problem.

    I try a lot of toilets, so being able to install and uninstall without sticky wax is nice.

    You do have to lift the bowl up to install with these. If you aren't strong enough to lift one, maybe your neighbor can do it for you.
    My sixteen YO does it pretty easily.
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2008
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,809
    Location:
    New England
    When you pull a toilet with the waxless, it often stays in the flange, so no, you don't have to flip the toilet over. Either way, it just pulls off, so it's not a big deal...with the cost of a wax ring verses this, wax is still king, but not if you're changing it out and want to save some time and cleanup to prep for reinstallation.
  9. Probedude

    Probedude New Member

    Messages:
    137
    Location:
    CA
    Gotcha, thanks.

    My bigger problem is getting the toilet aligned to the flange in setting it down - kind of like putting a manual transmission back in - I can get the tranny lifted and in, but lining up the input shaft to the clutch disc then pilot bushing, well. . . . With the waxless flange attached to the toilet first, I'm sure I wouldn't be able to drop it down straight up and down without it popping off the toilet.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2008
  10. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,770
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    It's not that hard.
    You have to push the adapter on pretty hard to begin with. It takes quite a bit for them to come off again.
    You can also sight the over the closet bolts, which gets you pretty close, and it's not that snug a fit, with the rubber ring on it.
    You can kind of ball park it in, and then the rubber ring centers you.
    Once you have done one, you will know what I mean. Right now you are just guessing.

    It's much harder to reinstall a transmission, I've done plenty of those too.

    [​IMG]
  11. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    New toilet flange

    I pulled my old toilet today. The old toilet was set over a vinyl floor over a cement slab. The old flange was set about 1/4 inch above to slab. Too high for the vinyl and too low for the tile I am putting in.

    After reading posts on the forum it appears the correct way to install a flange on a concrete floor is to have it set on top of the tile and held down with screws. I have looked at a lot of new houses in the Oklahoma City and Edmond, OK area that are under construction. I don't recall ever seeing the flange screwed down to the slab. But I would like to do it the correct way so...

    My questions are;

    - How do I fill the area around the pipe with cement, but leave space for the new flange.

    - If the cement is filled up to the drain pipe, there is only about 1/2 inch of cement between the screws that will be put in to hold the flange and the drain pipe. Seems this would break the cement a soon as the screw is tightened.
  12. sixlashes

    sixlashes Plumber in Previous Life

    Messages:
    83
    Location:
    Pensacola. FL
    Another use for the waxless adapter is an installation on a concrete slab with radiant heat. Even if the heating tubes in the slab are held back a bit, the floor can still get warm enough to deform the wax ring.
  13. bpars18

    bpars18 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Does the Flange need to be Flush with the Tile Floor?

    My flange sits a good 1/2-3/4 of an inch below my tile floor. It appears to me I have to extend my flange to be flush with the floor in order for the Fluidmaster Waxless to have something force it against the bottom of the toilet. Without this direct pressure, wouldn't the fluidmaster waxless be at risk of sliding off of the toilet and into the flange over time?

    Also, if I buy the flange extensions. Can I simply apply some caulk to them and stack them? Or should I pull the screws from the original flange and drive new screws through the extensions and the original flange?

    Thanks,

    Brett
  14. SteveW

    SteveW DIY Senior Member

    Messages:
    1,053
    Location:
    Omaha, NE
    I recently installed 2 Toto Gwyneths in my house after tiling 2 bathrooms, so the flanges were like yours, about 3/4" below the surface of the tiles. I bought both Fluidmaster and Fernco waxless seals, and went with the Fernco. It glues onto the toilet horn and is long enough even if you have a low flange.

    [​IMG]
    If you use the Fluidmaster waxless seal, push it onto the bottom of the bowl first.
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2009
  15. SewerRatz

    SewerRatz Illinois Licensed Plumber

    Messages:
    1,706
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Lav Lifter

    You can get this handy little tool to help you set water closets. Marco sells them.

    Attached Files:

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