Any advice for toilet that will not sit on closet flange?

[jaszd]

Alright here is my crapper flapper!

Installing a new toilet in a remodeled bathroom.

New closet flange sits above flooring and seats flush on top of floor....not uneven and is a standard thickness flange (rotating ring type).

New Foremost brand toilet will not seat on the closet flange as there are strengthening webs cast into the toilet, two slightly ahead and two behind the horn. Two of the webs that are closest to the mounting holes are interfering with the closet flange not allowing it to seat properly. Any advice?

My first thought was to put a masonry wheel on a grinder and trim back the webs so the flange will seat properly (I can see myself chipping the porcelain before I really get to chip the porcelain...actually crack it would be my luck)....or do I cut the closet flange to accept the webs however the bolt mounting slots in the flange are very close to the webs and I believe will be cut into on the outside edge; if I do this it will ultimately weaken the flanges ability to secure the toilet.

Any advice before I start cutting or grinding? I cannot take the toilet back as I bought it two years ago knowing I was going to renovate this bathroom down the road, it was a clearance item.....now I see why! Perhaps I will follow my co-workers advice and convert the new glass vessel sink I will be installing into a new age toilet bowl? He seems to think that is all vessel sinks are good for....he knows nothing!!!!!! Nothing I tell you!!!!!!!!!!

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Gary Swart]

Shall I dare to say this? You picked a very poor toilet. Too bad you're stuck with it, but you might just want to consider cutting your losses and buy a Toto. I really don't think you can end up with a satisfactory toilet with the thing you have even if your grinding is successful.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

If I was stuck with it, I'd try a diamond cup grinder and get rid of them. Worst case is you replace it...best case, it works and doesn't crack. The area around the toilet's horn needs to be free of obstructions so it can sit on a standard flange and the wax can seal while the toilet can sit without rocking.

 

[hj]

How about a picture of the bottom of the toilet so we can see what you are describing. I doubt that YOURS is the only toilet that was made that way, so if it is a structural thing EVERY one of them should have had the same problem and I have not heard a rash of complaints about it. That is, unless they only made one toilet and you bought it.

 

[Terry]

Some of the plastic closet flanges are a bit high for some new bowls.
Better are the metal ringed closet flanges, they sit lower.

Have you tried sitting the bowl without wax to see if it's really the flange?
Sometimes wax with the plastic horn prevents a bowl from sitting flush to the floor.

And vessels?
I'm not a big fan of those. Make sure you don't have a grid drain for it, it needs a drain with a high pop-up or the water sticks in the grids and doesn't drain quickly enough.