Another Laundry Sink Question

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Merr203

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Sorry guys, I know this has been asked many times before. My situation is a bit different in that I'm fairly limited, space-wise. Also, the scope of the solution will dictate whether the project takes place. Since I'm in Washington, I'm hoping I can use an AAV for the sink, as described by Terry in this thread:

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-with-installing-laundry-sink-plumbing.65333/

Here's what I'm working with. As you can see everything is in the wall with just a small access cover. For the laundry sink, I would be running the plumbing just outside the wall. The vent goes to the roof (no 2nd floor). I would be installing the sink to the left of all this.

Ub3826M.jpg


VUxgRGX.jpg

So the question is, can I install the sink with trap and AAV, then tie the drain in here (by replacing that Santee with a Santee + Inlet)?
 

Plumbum

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Cut in a 2" san-tee just below the existing san-tee. Roll the new tee out of the wall at a 45 then use a street 45 to hold your new waste line tight to the wall and over to new sink location. If you run the new drain in 2" you can run it up to 5' without using an AAV.
 

Merr203

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Thanks guys, that's good news. I'm glad the pix were helpful.

A couple other things -- should I follow the rule of sloping the drain 1/4" per foot? It will be about a 3' distance.

Also, does it look like the (mostly painted) supply lines in the pic are pex? I'm wondering if I should replace them as the house is about 20 years old and they might be the same age. I'm not sure how long they should be expected to last, pex or not.
 
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sloping the drain 1/4" per foot?
The whole point of that is to prevent a possible slope going the other way, the danger of hoarding water in the horizontal. A perfect zero-degree on on flat horizontal is just as bad.

It doesn't have to be NASA perfect. Just do your best with those specs, verify your work with a bubble level on the horizontal. If the bubble heads away from the vertical, you're good.

Once, I installed a 6 foot long 4"-inch DWV, and the entire total grade from start to end was about 1/4"-inch down TOTAL, never mind per foot. It was against joists on a basement ceiling, into an existing cast-iron tee. I had the opposite end pushed up as high as possible, metal straps held it in place. I really didn't feel like cutting 60 yr old joists.
13809339-woman-holding-a-bubble-level.jpg
 
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Terry

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I'm not allowed to wet vent a washer over a sink.
In my world, a tee cut in under the washer would need the AAV.
Either that, or open drywall and vent back to the washer vent above the box.
The washer should have had a 2" trap and standpipe. They work with 1.5", but that hasn't been code for maybe fifty years.
 
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