Another 4" waste pipe & closet flange question

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Crafty876

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Hi All:

Terry I "Love" the forum and have really found alot of great info regarding my bathroom reno on the site... But I still have a bit of a twin horn dilemma regarding my 4" waste pipe and closet flange...

So here is the deal... In the original bathroom it appears that I had a 4" lead pipe and flange that had been beaten all to hell and in fact the the flange had separated from the pipe. there doesn't appear to be any oakum or solder present and the pipe seems to just narrow up to the closet flange. In any case a new ABS flange is in order and I know my two options are the twist and seal flange, which I located at my HD in Canada or cutting the pipe then coupling a 4" ABS waste pipe on to the lead pipe... Anyway to make a long story short my only real option is to cut the waste pipe and join an ABS pipe to it...

I don't think the cutting is going to be too much of a problem providing the chain for the cutter is less than an inch thick. But I am concerned that i will be coupling the ABS pipe to the lead pipe correctly.... What has been suggested is that I use a 4" rubber sleave that is about 6 inches long and has a hose clamp at each end. It seems like it will work to me but seeing as this is going to be under wood, cbu, a heated floor and $12 a sf tile I wanted to check with some people in the 'know' before I proceed.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Regards,

Kevin
 

Jadnashua

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I don't think you really want to connect to the lead pipe. Note, the unreinforced rubber coupling is not spec'ed for above ground...you'd need a no-hub connector. I think that the correct way to do this would be to cut off the pipe back where it is cast iron, then use a no-hub to transition to the abs. See what the pros have to say.
 

Crafty876

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Thanks Jim:

I was a little leary of that connection. I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post what I am looking at. From what I remember at the base what I think is a lead pipe there is a cast iron pipe that ends in a knuckle... So I assume I have to break out all the lead to the cast knuckle and then union the ABS from there..

Thanks


And I'll post photos....


Kevin
 

Crafty876

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Finally had enough light to grab a few snapshots this AM the first photo is the mangled lead pipe in all its glory. The second picture is where the lead waste pipe joins to what I think is the cast pipe about a foot below.

Unfortunately, the cast iron pipe is going to make a sharp right hand turn and and some additional floor raising and perhaps destroying some of my basement ceiling will have to be done before I can get at the cast iron portion of the pipe.... :mad::mad:
 

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Jadnashua

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An alternative might be to remove the lead from the CI hub, then use a Fernco donut to an abs stub then install the new flange once you get the new floor in.

As I understand it (and I'm not a pro!), there's probably a brass sleeve leaded into that hub that the lead is attached to. They MIGHT make a no-hub the proper size to connect from it to standard abs, but I don't know. Getting the lead off of the sleeve is possible, but maybe a pain.

If you can get to a straight portion of CI, transitioning to abs is easy. Rent a soil pipe cutter (snap cutter) and once you have access, it takes all of about 5-minutes with most of that trying to figure out how to do it.

snap_cutter.jpg
 
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Crafty876

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Thanks for the help

Thanks for the help everyone but I think it is time for me to face some facts. I really don't know what the easiest most effecient option is whether it is fernco donut or cut a CI pipe. In any case I think I am going to leave this to someone with a few hours more experience than I have...

I am okay gluing a flange to an abs pipe after the most of the work is done but there is absolutly no way I am qualified to be cutting something as hard and brittle as 70 year old cast iron on my own...

Thanks for all the advice everyone....

Regards,

Kevin
 

Redwood

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Okay! But make sure that ABS flange has a stainless steel ring on it!

toiletflange-abs-stainless-steel.jpg
 
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