angled vent stack and flexible p-trap

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by mdr, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. mdr

    mdr New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    CA
    Hi,

    Simple question: Does the requirement that a horizontal vent run must be 6" above the flood level rim apply to a vent run angled at 45 deg to run around obstructions?

    More detailed question:


    I'm correcting a remodel (previous owner) of a small 1/2 bath. Of course, I keep peeling the onion and finding more and more challenges. (In retrospect, I should have gutted and redone it, but now I've got to get the job done before my wife kills me.)

    The bathroom has a pedestal sink with a chrome (brass?) waste arm that connects into the waste stack through a hubbed cast iron sanitary tee. The end of the waste arm is buried in the tee - I can't see whether it's leaded in or not. (House is from 1938). The waste arm extends too far out of the wall to fit the pedestal sink. Previous owner used flexible plastic bellows p-trap to make it work - it was lame.

    From the tee, the vent stack transitions to galvanized and immediately a 45 deg bend, galvanized to another stud bay and then a galvanized 45. The initial bend is just above the waste arm and the upper bend at the rim height of the sink. Below the tee, the cast iron stack passes through the floor and then transitions to abs at a rubber fernco.

    Searching the archives suggests that since I've got to muck with the cast iron tee, I should just pull out all of the metal and replace with ABS. Is this the way to go?

    Attached Files:

  2. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    45º angle and greater is considered to be vertical. I recommend against any kind of flexible trap. Glue up ABS is easy to work with.
  3. mdr

    mdr New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    CA
    Thanks Jimbo.
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,831
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    In 1938 they probably used a brass "solder bushing" to connect the trap. Cutting it out of the tee will be IMMENSELY easier than replacing the tee in the wall.
  5. mdr

    mdr New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    CA
    Thanks for your advice hj. I have easy access to the back wall of the plumbing, so ripping off and replacing the drywall won't be too bad.

    However, If I were to follow your suggestion, once the old waste arm is cut out, how would I attach the new waste arm to the cast iron tee? Your previous posts have mentioned use of a fernco rubber donut - is this what I would use?

    Thanks,
    Murray
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2010
  6. MACPLUMB 777

    MACPLUMB 777 TROJAN WORLDWIDE SALES RP

    Messages:
    679
    Location:
    Houston, Texas, United States
    Cut out all old pipe and replace while you are working and have access !

    Old c.i. Pipe and fittings just cause blockages !

    Go with your drawing and be " sure" to shielded couplings !
  7. mdr

    mdr New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    CA
    Thanks Jerry. I'm planning to go that route, i.e., replacing it all the CI with ABS. I won't even have to use couplings - there is ABS near the roof penetration and below in the drain line - so I'll just have to solvent into those.
  8. mdr

    mdr New Member

    Messages:
    16
    Location:
    CA
    Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I redid the drain/vent from crawlspace to roof penetration today and added a cleanout in the crawlspace. Also reworked the cold water supply so the stuboutst were centered on the trap and both stubs where at the same height.
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