American Standard Push-Pull Shower Valve

Discussion in 'Shower & Bathtub Forum & Blog' started by Terry, Aug 23, 2013.

  1. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,438
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    American Standard made a Push-Pull Shower Valve in the 60's
    For years my parents had one of these in their home, and sometimes I see them on jobs. It's hard to find out much about them, so here are some pictures of a valve I removed and replaced.

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    You basic American Standard Push-Pull shower valve

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  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,438
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
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    Last edited: Aug 23, 2013
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,438
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I wound up replacing with a Moen Posi-Temp and 1920 remodel plate and TL182 trim. Access to the wall behind was going to be very tough.

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    Shown with a Delta RP17453 tub spout will "pull-down" diverter.
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2013
  4. asktom

    asktom Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    Victor, MT
    Eventually the hole in the valve body where the guide post (#28) goes wears larger and things get sloppy. At that point the valve is trash because the cam & shaft (#26) won't engage the stem (#22) correctly. Until that point I have had good success rebuilding them. Their day is about done, however.
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Location:
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    The round handle must have be an aftermarket replacement, because the tub, shower, and lav faucets all had the "T" handle. I saw a Moen display yesterday which had an elongated trim escutcheon so you did not need the "remodel plate.
  6. Jody J

    Jody J New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    DE
    HI
    can you tell me if there are any trim kits that would work with this valve. Shower redo on the cheap, the valve is working fine but needs a cosmetic makeover.
    Thank
    Jody
  7. Jody J

    Jody J New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    DE
    thanks for answering me.....so theres no way a moen rothbury push pull would work on that then correct?...what about the universal Delta or Pfister trim kit?? I havent found any that are volume and temp as of yet though
  8. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,438
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Well..........you don't use a Chevy waterpump with a Ford engine.

    If you look farther up, that's one of the reasons we removed it. It was no longer working well, and we can't get parts anymore.
    Other brands are incompatible with it.
    There is no interchange between the brands.
  9. smithian

    smithian New Member

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    Location:
    NJ
  10. eladolag

    eladolag In the Trades

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    oh
    I bought and installed the AME N-1030 rebuild kit including the shaft. Before and after water comes out from the handle when it is pulled to the on position. Why is there a hole running thru the entire shaft from end to end and how is water not supposed to come out thru it? Thanks
  11. BrentAudi

    BrentAudi New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Hello,
    I read your question concerning water still pouring out of the handle before and after you did the rebuild. Was just curious if you figured out what was the issue?
    I have this same control in one of my bathrooms and I am wondering if I should do a rebuild of the old or just replace the whole thing. I noticed the rebuild "kit" runs about $80 bucks. About the same price as some of the newer whole push pull controls.
    Any advice you could give would be great.
    Thanks
    Brent
  12. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,286
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    If you have a BPI, (brown's partsmaster Inc.), store near you or online they sell the rebuild kit. As a sidebar, that valve was NOT an American Standard design. It was originally Schaible and also used for Sears faucets. The same mechanism was used for the cast iron sinks with the "built in" faucets. The problem with them is the handle turns the faucet on, but springs have to turn it off and sometimes they get stuck. My boss's doctor had a kitchen faucet like that and when it stuck I had to drive about 50 miles to "unstick" it.
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2014
  13. BrentAudi

    BrentAudi New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Thanks HJ! I will check out BPI.
    Thanks also for the history of the workings of the valve. To me it kind of works like an electric water valve. It has worked perfect up until the last year. Where it has gone from drip to a light run. I am going to take it apart in a day or so and see if a good cleaning will get it working. We have very hard water in the area of Atlanta that I live in. If that does not do the trick I will order the rebuild.
    Brent
  14. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,286
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    ON that valve, the "seats" are backwards. The rubber portion is inside the valve and the metal piece pushes against it by action of the springs.When you turn it on, the "cam" tilts the metal stem opening the valve. When you turn it off, the cam releases the metal pin and the springs are supposed to push it back and shut the water off. Because of this action, if it does not turn off completely, there is NO WAY for you to 'force' it closed.
  15. BrentAudi

    BrentAudi New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Thanks HJ!
    Just curious about the inner rubber "seats". When taken out, are these common size "seats" that I could match up at Lowes or HD? Or were they specifically designed for this valve?
  16. BrentAudi

    BrentAudi New Member

    Messages:
    9
  17. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,286
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    The seats are brass with a rubber face, and SPECIFIC to that type of valve.
  18. BrentAudi

    BrentAudi New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Sadly I think I will have to give up on this dear valve. I wanted to keep it for Nostalgic reasons, but I won't be able. I took the valve apart very easy. Tried to get the seats out and it was a not going to happen. I brought them to a plumbing place and they tried for me for free, and they could not get them out. I wish I could find a New Old Stock front part of the valve...but I know that is not going to happen.
    Any suggestions for a replacement? I will do it myself. I don't need the shower head, etc.... Just need the valve.
    Thanks for all your input HJ!
    Brent
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