Alternate Valve for Radiator?

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Phil P., Dec 14, 2007.

  1. Phil P.

    Phil P. New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Arlington, VA
    I'm adding two Burnham Baseray cast iron baseboard radiators to my basement. I've run the piping out of the framed walls since floor is of course concrete.

    The plumbing supply houses here only have right angle radiator valves (intended for piping up through floor) and the valve enclosure is not deep enough to mount it in a horizontal position.

    Any reason why I cannot use an alternate "regular" valve to make it fit? If so what type is best? Gate, stop, ball?

    Any advice appreciated. Thanks... Phil
  2. Phil P.

    Phil P. New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Arlington, VA
    valve pics

    Hmm, maybe the picture will explain it better.

    The grey valve encloure on the left is not deep enough to fit the radiator valve in a horizontal position.

    Since I can't locate a straight radiator valve, my plan is to sweat a cast 90 onto the stub, then a union and the regular valve.

    It's a regular gate valve in the pic, and unless someone has a reason not to do that, or a better alternative, that is tomorrow morning's project! Phil

    Attached Files:

  3. TMB9862

    TMB9862 New Member

    Messages:
    206
    I can't think of any reason not to use a regular valve but that doesn't mean their isn't one. I'd wait for a definite answer from one of the other guys.

    If you do go this route one thing you do not want is direct contact between the cast iron and copper. I'd use an IPS ball valve, and put a male IPS to sweat adapter in one side and a black nipple in the other. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put a union in there as well to make changing the valve or removing the radiator easier.
  4. Phil P.

    Phil P. New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Arlington, VA
    Thank you for the info Marlin.

    Yes I had considered the iron / copper issue. The brass valve housing should do the trick:

    radiator > iron close nipple > brass valve > brass union to copper.

    Not sure about a ball valve, I have the same space issue with the swing of the handle. I'd have to make sure it will fit in the enclosure.

    Phil
  5. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots Sprinkler Guy

    Messages:
    798
    Location:
    Metro NYC
    Why the enclosure? If I was worried about unauthorized valve-handle-turning, I'd just remove the handle from the angle valve.
  6. Phil P.

    Phil P. New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Arlington, VA
    Wetboots the enclosure not to secure the valve in any way, it's just for looks. With it on you can install the finish carpentry (baseboard) right up to the radiator and run the top cap up and over the device. It's a nice finished look.

    I had not checked how much clearance I gain by removing the wheel, I'll see.

    One guy at the plumbing supply house thought the primary difference between a "radiator" valve and regular plumbing valve is ability to withstand heat. My boiler runs at about 140 degrees, which isn't that far from some domestic water heaters, so I'm not sure that's a legit concern.

    I think I'm going with the gate valve. Thanks for the information all. Phil
  7. construct30

    construct30 New Member

    Messages:
    590
    Location:
    NorthWest PA
    A lot of radiator valves have the union built into them, for close work and they can also be used to control the flow into that individual radiator if the system is plumbed right for that. They also make thermostatically controlled valves now too. They do take the heat better, but a gate valve should too. I have had gate valves that didn't turn the water off all the way, that can be a pain if you need to use it.
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2007
  8. Phil P.

    Phil P. New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Arlington, VA
    finished burnham baseray install

    Well I hate leaving threads unfinished, so wanted to pass on that I did locate a straight 3/4" radiator valve online at pexsupply after a lot of searching. Finished the whole basement project a year ago, but just remembered these pics.

    I think the built-in union is really what makes this the best valve (versus standard ball valve) for connecting up a radiator and I'm glad I kept looking until I found them.

    Someone asked about the enclosure. I added a pic of the "finished product" with the baseboard cap wrapped up and over the baseray unit. The Burnham literature talks about doing there aren't any pictures. I think it's a very nice finished look, even though I'm not the worlds greatest finish carpenter.

    One other item: since the lines to this radiator run "down" from an overhead branch, I installed a hose bib bleeder on the opposite side of the radiator so I can bleed it out. Once bled, heat flows through great.

    I can only find one supplier here in Wash DC area still stocking Burnham cast iron radiant parts, I'm a fan and hope to continue using it with future renovations.

    Thanks for all the assistance with this and my other projects. Phil P.

    Attached Files:

  9. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,636
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    heat

    Now the question is whether you used TWO MonoFlow tees for the radiator connections? If not, you may have a heating problem.
Similar Threads: Alternate Valve
Forum Title Date
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Alternate method - ABS to CI? Jun 25, 2008
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & alternate use of kitchen handheld sprayer Jul 6, 2006
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Deep Well Foot Valve Sep 13, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Basement drain (Backwater valve?) Sep 11, 2014
Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & identify Threaded or compression shut-off valve from photo? Sep 7, 2014

Share This Page