Air Gap Problem

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by TomC, Nov 5, 2008.

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  1. TomC

    TomC New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Need help. Just put in a new Kitchen. The Sink is next to the dishwasher. Water is coming out of the Air Gap. The contractor said it was because the dishwasher is powerful. He first tried blocking one of the 2 pinholes on top of the air gap, then both. Now it leaks at the bottom seal whre it meets the counter even though he sealed it with plumbers putty.

    Should I bypass the gap, and just loop it at the top?

    Thanks
  2. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    No the contractor should have a plumber do it right for you...
    The drain line from the air agp should be pitched down to either the disposer or dishwasher tailpiece with no kinks.
  3. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    I wonder if he put the hose on the wrong fitting?
  4. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    Who knows?
    It's obvious he desn't know what he's doing!:eek:
  5. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    New dishwashers are NOT too strong! The most likely cause of the problem is that someone forgot to knock out the plug on the inlet to the disposer. Plugging the top of the air gap will only lead to a MAJOR flooding disaster somewhere, and possibly will cause crud water to remain stagnant in the dishwasher.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 5, 2008
  6. TomC

    TomC New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Los Angeles


    Water is getting to the dosposal. Just a little is coming out the air gap seal. Not the whole drain load. It is connected right, and there are no kinks.
  7. TomC

    TomC New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Los Angeles

    Checked it, its looks good
  8. Is the Air Gap a Zurn, or one of those $2 knockoffs from Home Cheapo?


    Take a picture of this and post it here.


    My thinking is he did punch the knockout plug.....but it's still partially in there or a chunk is left, causing a partial restriction. If he didn't use the right sized blunt end, this will happen every time.
  9. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,412
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I like to use the Dearborn Brass Air gaps.
    Since Rugged like Zurn, make that Zurn and Dearborn Brass.
    I've never been able to use the ones that Barnett or the hardware stores sell.

    Also, like mentioned above, check to make sure the disposer plug is knocked out, and if it's a Costco Disposer, throw it away. IMHO

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2011
  10. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,412
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Air Gap

    In many plumbing codes, there needs to be a gap in the drain, or it can siphon back waste from the kitchen sink.
    The gap needs to be above the counter height.

    The fact that some dishwashers don't have the gap, does not make them right.

    [​IMG]
  11. TomC

    TomC New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Los Angeles

    Its an Insinkerator Evolution Excel ( Supposed to be good ) Not sure what brand the Air Gap is, I got it at Snyder Diamond which is a good Plumbing Supply Retailer. It cost about $25.00.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 20, 2011
  12. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,412
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The Insinkerator Evolution Excel is a good unit.

    The Costco Titan has a reduced interior dimension in the drain inlet.

    Paying $25 for the air gap doesn't tell me much. Sometimes you are paying for the special finish on the cap.
    If you can take a digital picture with the cap off, and post it, then we can give you our opinion of it.
  13. TomC

    TomC New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    Los Angeles

    Here are 2 pictures.
    Thanks for the help

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2008
  14. 99k

    99k Radon Contractor and Water Treatment

    Messages:
    460
    Location:
    Fairfield Co.,Connecticut
    In our neck of the woods I have never seen an air gap for the DW ... I understand why they are needed ... just have never seen one in Connecticut. Nothing personal, that is FUGLEY! You have a beautiful granite top and then must look at that:eek: There must be something prettier that that thing.
  15. sjsmithjr

    sjsmithjr Geologist

    Messages:
    295
    Location:
    Knoxville, Tennessee
    The decorative trim cap is off for diagnostic purposes. :p
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2008
  16. kingsotall

    kingsotall Plunger/TurdPuncher

    Now all we need is a picture from under the sink.
  17. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    We can debate the idea, but the entire state of California, which is 10% of the entire population of the USA , requires air gaps. I think any state on the UPC has this requirement.
  18. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
    Connecticut
    99K is correct. The use of an airgap is not required in Connecticut.
    A high loop in the hose to the bottom of the countertop before dropping down to the disposer or, dishwasher tailpiece is all that is required.
  19. jar546

    jar546 In the Trades

    Messages:
    432
    Location:
    USA
    What are the requirements for the plumbing code section of the IRC series, and not the UPC? Just curious because I have never seen the counter airgap in any new construction installation of a DW.

    With that being said, it was told to me (not taught) that the loop in the drainline, along with the termination point at the disposal or neck above the trap is acceptable.

    Please educate me with your opinion but please quote a code section from the IRC if you do.
  20. nhmaster

    nhmaster Master Plumber

    Messages:
    3,189
    Location:
    S. Maine
    First let's try and fix the problem. I would change the air gap. It's probably bad.

    On to Dishwasher Code. The UPC requires one, the IPC does not. The IPC requires a high loop on the drain hose but many manufacturers add it right at the unit so you need to check that before adding a second one. IMHO it is just short of criminal to not install the air gap. Why the IPC let it go is beyond me but then there's a tone of stuff in the IPC that forces me to bind my head with duct tape. Anyhoooo. I've seen way too many air gapless dishwashers with a tub full O crud when the disposall plugged up.

    I enjoy a spirited discussion and the insults. I'm the guy standing at the edge of the crowd yelling Fight, Fight , Fight. It's cheap entertainment and I am easally amused.
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