Advice, Recommendation, Shallow well pump, tank, CSV (or not)

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Jay R.

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Hi All,
I've been lurking and searching for up to date advice and recommendations on a jet pump and tank setup for a shallow dug well at a seasonal cabin.

Last year we bought a seasonal cabin in central New Hampshire. It has kitchen ( no dishwasher) and bathroom (toilet and sink) no shower but we do plan on adding one. The cabin is up on piers about 30-36" above ground level. The existing pump and tank are under the cabin. The pump and tank combo is one of those Harbor Freight under $200 specials, which we were told is 10 years old. Based on the pump's behavior and I'm pretty sure the bladder in the tank is ruptured. It's currently functioning, but who knows for how long.

For piece of mind we are looking to upgrade the pump and tank to a more reliable and robust setup.

So far, I've gotten some estimates from a couple of different well companies in the $1700 range, one included labor the other did not (his labor is $95/hr). The least expensive quoted Sta-Rite pump (1/2 - 3/4 hp), the more expensive quoted JClass (same 1/2-3/4), formerly Jacuzzi) pump. Both quoted a 20-22 gal horizontal tank because of the limited vertical space under the cabin. Both quoted Amtrol/Well-X-Trol tanks.

After reading many threads on this site, those prices seem in line with what well companies are charging. Internet research indicates they get some pretty good mark ups on the hardware. I don't hold that against them, I recognize they deserve to make a living.

I've been reading up on the benefits of a CSV. I'm thinking we can save some money with a smaller tank and a CSV. I wasn't aware of CSVs when I get the above quotes so I didn't bring up the subject with them.

What are your thoughts advice on:
1) Sta-Rite vs JClass pumps ? - There's lots of negatives on the Sta-Rite out there on the internet. JClass appears to be (about) the best you can get and I'm not sure we really need that for seasonal use.
2) Smaller Amtrol tank with CSV versus a PSide-Kick setup ? No CSV ?
3) Are any of these easier, or better for winterizing ? or is this just a function of putting valves and drains in the right places when installed ?
4) Can you refer or recommend anyone (well company or plumber) in central New Hampshire ?

Thanks in advance...
Jay
 

Valveman

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Because of the space constraints and the need to winterize, the Pside-Kick with a CSV would be a good solution. However, it will not save any money over a 20 gallon size tank. But a 20 gallon size tank only holds 5 gallons of water, which is too small a tank for a 10 GPM pump (guessing). The Pside-Kick will save money over a properly sized tank, and the Pside-Kick will do a better job and be easier to winterize.

Just have a brass bleeder orifice installed about 5' down the well, but don't use any check valves except the one on the pump itself. Then when you are ready to drain the system, simply turn off power to the pump, open a faucet or faucets, and leave. When the little tank is empty, the bleeder orifice will open and drain everything down to 5' below ground.

When you return, turn power on for the pump, wait for the air to be expelled, close the faucets and your back in business.

If your harbor freight special lasted 10 years, the CSV or a larger tank is probably not going to make a big difference in the life of the pump. You don't use it enough to even wear out a harbor freight pump. But I know you will like the constant pressure from the Pside-Kick and CSV compared to the always varying pressure coming from an old style pressure tank only system.
 

Jay R.

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Because of the space constraints and the need to winterize, the Pside-Kick with a CSV would be a good solution. However, it will not save any money over a 20 gallon size tank. But a 20 gallon size tank only holds 5 gallons of water, which is too small a tank for a 10 GPM pump (guessing). The Pside-Kick will save money over a properly sized tank, and the Pside-Kick will do a better job and be easier to winterize.

Just have a brass bleeder orifice installed about 5' down the well, but don't use any check valves except the one on the pump itself. Then when you are ready to drain the system, simply turn off power to the pump, open a faucet or faucets, and leave. When the little tank is empty, the bleeder orifice will open and drain everything down to 5' below ground.

When you return, turn power on for the pump, wait for the air to be expelled, close the faucets and your back in business.

If your harbor freight special lasted 10 years, the CSV or a larger tank is probably not going to make a big difference in the life of the pump. You don't use it enough to even wear out a harbor freight pump. But I know you will like the constant pressure from the Pside-Kick and CSV compared to the always varying pressure coming from an old style pressure tank only system.

Thanks for the advice..
The previous owners did not use the cabin much for many years, so the very small setup may have worked for them. We live close enough, and our jobs allow us working remotely, so we plan to use it as much as possible during the spring, summer and early fall months. Plus we do plan on adding a shower, probably outside for now.

Question about the "bleeder orifice 5' down the well", We routinely turn off power to the pump when we are not there to avoid flooding accidents when no one is around. I assume that as long as none of the faucets are open the system wont drain, correct ?

I'm not sure how practical adding the bleeder in the well is either :) I'm pretty handy, but I'm not getting in there to do that ;-)
 

Valveman

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The bleeder will be easy to install when you switch to a submersible pump. It will not work with a shallow well jet pump.

And no the bleeder will not open and drain the system until you open a faucet an let the pressure off the system. When there is zero pressure the ball in the bleeder drops and lets water drain out. So your system will stay charged even with the power off, unless you have a leak that lets all the pressure out.
 

Jay R.

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The bleeder will be easy to install when you switch to a submersible pump. It will not work with a shallow well jet pump.

And no the bleeder will not open and drain the system until you open a faucet an let the pressure off the system. When there is zero pressure the ball in the bleeder drops and lets water drain out. So your system will stay charged even with the power off, unless you have a leak that lets all the pressure out.

Ahhh,
Well, no plans to switch to a submersible since it would require running electrical. Sticking with shallow well jet pump.

Thanks again
 

Valveman

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Then the best you can do is put a drain valve on the jet pump. If you put a tee on the suction side with a plug on top, you can remove the plug, run a stick down the suction pipe, and it will displace the water down the suction pipe so it won't freeze.
 
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