Advice on wire I used??

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KennethP.

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Well I leave in NC my well is 110 feet deep.Submersible pump down 80 feet.I pulled it yesterday because of not working. I found that the flat jacket wire had rub one side in two.I went to Lowe's&had no help&couldn't find any of the same wire.So I got underground wire&in process of re-installing notice from the start that ground wire was not insulated in the cable.It was getting late&haven't had water since Christmas Eve.Just decided to use&put heat shrink tubing over it&use a extra water tight seal on ground wire.Taped it really good with electric&Duck Tape.After the fact&looking up on Lowe's &Home Depot Sites they did sell the twisted wire for submersible use.I just don't like the twisted stuff.The Flat Jacket look's better.How long do you all think the cable I used will last?Should I convert ASAP or should I find the flat jacket or other submersible wire&just hold onto it till pump stop's again.Also,found that someone used 3/4 PVC to run there line in down to pump.They wire strap'd it to pump pipe.Sound's like a smart idea to me&cheap thing to do to protect wire.Thank's in advance for the help.
 
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DonL

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After the fact&looking up on Lowe's &Home Depot Sites they did sell the twisted wire for submersible use.I just don't like the twisted stuff.The Flat Jacket look's better.

Did you use a solid connector wire ?

Stranded wire of the proper type would last longer, Who cares what it looks like ? I like it to work.

Good Luck.
 

Valveman

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The ground doesn't need to be insulated. If that wire is all in one round black jacket, it is my favorite to use in a well. Cycling on and off is what wears wire like that. Using a Cycle Stop Valve will keep that from happening and solves several other problems as well.
 

KennethP.

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Did you use a solid connector wire ?

Stranded wire of the proper type would last longer, Who cares what it looks like ? I like it to work.

Good Luck.
The original wire lasted 18 yrs.It was stranded.Most likely be stranded going back with the submersible wire.Just thought if I've already got problem's with wire rubbing side of well the PVC Conduit would be some cheap insurance to protect it longer for sure.I'm more concerned now of the underground wire I installed yesterday.I think it will buy me some time till I can find the right stuff.My biggest concern is Safety.It was solid wire on the underground wire that I stuck down the well yesterday.I just dont want to burn anything up for sure.The wire broke on old&never flip'd breaker.Just stop'd working.There maybe 25 feet of wire in water.
 

KennethP.

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The ground doesn't need to be insulated. If that wire is all in one round black jacket, it is my favorite to use in a well. Cycling on and off is what wears wire like that. Using a Cycle Stop Valve will keep that from happening and solves several other problems as well.
This is what I used from Lowes
 

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Craigpump

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Duct tape? The adhesive is not designed for underwater use, I've seen that stuff rot off and get sucked into the suction of the pump.

How many torque arrestors were installed?
 

KennethP.

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Duct tape? The adhesive is not designed for underwater use, I've seen that stuff rot off and get sucked into the suction of the pump.

How many torque arrestors were installed?
I put one back on it was confused on where to put it.The tag on pump said Casing was 35 feet deep.So I put it about 30 feet from top of well.Figure if it was below casing it would just get stuck.My pump is about 75 feet down from top.Not much info on them.Alot of neg's&some good on them.
 

ACWxRADR

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Ken,

As CraigPump is eluding to, do not attach anything including tape that may not remain where you place it.
Certain specific tapes, plastic zip ties and other sorts of implements and hardware can degrade to the point
where it no longer holds what you intended it to in place, let alone itself. Then it may fall down into your
well and cause future troubles.

Torque limiting arrestors will prevent the well string from "slapping" around in the well bore when the pump
kicks on and off and these arrestors will protect your wiring and the well string from damage.

As for the wiring, my personal viewpoint is that multi-stranded cables are best. Multi-strand cables provide
several advantages. Electrically they offer less impedance to the flow of electrical current. Mechanically they
are stronger and more resilient. Physically they are easier to handle because they are more flexible.

Solid copper wiring is used in house wiring because it is convenient, it is not expected to be subject to flexing,
vibration or physical stresses and it is not intended to carry a high capacity current over a great distance. But,
if you examine the cabling for an electric stove/range or a clothes dryer, you will find that multi-strand cable
is generally used in these applications.

The greater the distance and the higher the current/voltage, the greater the advantage of the use of multi-strand
cable. A multi-stranded cable has greater current carrying capacity than a solid wire because of how electricity
flows through the metal. It is a strange phenomena based in physics.

The electrons in motion (the electric current) tends to flow on the outside "skin" of the conductor, therefore the
more surface area you have, the greater the capacity for the conductor to carry the electric current to the load.
Electrons are all of the same charge, so they naturally repel each other like two north poles or two south poles
of a magnet would. Therefore, the electrons move as far away from each other as possible and that means that
they end up on the outer surfaces of the metal, not in the core section.

In an example, a hollow copper pipe or tube has a greater current capacity than a solid copper rod of the same
diameter. This is because the surface area of the tube has two surfaces (inside and out), nearly doubling the
total area. A solid copper rod would have only the outer surface available. The solid core of a rod would nearly
be wasted material (more appropriately it would be a non-efficient use of the material by weight and volume).

It would be impractical to fabricate an electrical conductor of hollow tubes, but if you made many small strands
of solid wire wrapped into one larger, single conductor, it would result in a more efficient current carrying device.

RADAR
 

Reach4

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The electrons in motion (the electric current) tends to flow on the outside "skin" of the conductor, therefore the
more surface area you have, the greater the capacity for the conductor to carry the electric current to the load.
Skin effect is negligible at 60 Hz for copper wire.
 

ACWxRADR

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Reach,

Certainly, I know and understand this. The "skin effect" was not the phenomenon that I was attempting to illustrate.
Touting the advantages of multi-strand conductor wire and cable was my goal. I took a great deal of, hmmm.....
"poetic license" to help me explain my case. That's all.

Gordy
 

KennethP.

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Ken,

As CraigPump is eluding to, do not attach anything including tape that may not remain where you place it.
Certain specific tapes, plastic zip ties and other sorts of implements and hardware can degrade to the point
where it no longer holds what you intended it to in place, let alone itself. Then it may fall down into your
well and cause future troubles.

Torque limiting arrestors will prevent the well string from "slapping" around in the well bore when the pump
kicks on and off and these arrestors will protect your wiring and the well string from damage.

As for the wiring, my personal viewpoint is that multi-stranded cables are best. Multi-strand cables provide
several advantages. Electrically they offer less impedance to the flow of electrical current. Mechanically they
are stronger and more resilient. Physically they are easier to handle because they are more flexible.

Solid copper wiring is used in house wiring because it is convenient, it is not expected to be subject to flexing,
vibration or physical stresses and it is not intended to carry a high capacity current over a great distance. But,
if you examine the cabling for an electric stove/range or a clothes dryer, you will find that multi-strand cable
is generally used in these applications.

The greater the distance and the higher the current/voltage, the greater the advantage of the use of multi-strand
cable. A multi-stranded cable has greater current carrying capacity than a solid wire because of how electricity
flows through the metal. It is a strange phenomena based in physics.

The electrons in motion (the electric current) tends to flow on the outside "skin" of the conductor, therefore the
more surface area you have, the greater the capacity for the conductor to carry the electric current to the load.
Electrons are all of the same charge, so they naturally repel each other like two north poles or two south poles
of a magnet would. Therefore, the electrons move as far away from each other as possible and that means that
they end up on the outer surfaces of the metal, not in the core section.

In an example, a hollow copper pipe or tube has a greater current capacity than a solid copper rod of the same
diameter. This is because the surface area of the tube has two surfaces (inside and out), nearly doubling the
total area. A solid copper rod would have only the outer surface available. The solid core of a rod would nearly
be wasted material (more appropriately it would be a non-efficient use of the material by weight and volume).

It would be impractical to fabricate an electrical conductor of hollow tubes, but if you made many small strands
of solid wire wrapped into one larger, single conductor, it would result in a more efficient current carrying device.

RADAR
Thanks for info.
 

KennethP.

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Duct tape? The adhesive is not designed for underwater use, I've seen that stuff rot off and get sucked into the suction of the pump.

How many torque arrestors were installed?
I put one on it Would you recommend when I pull it to just leave the one where it's at&add a second one 3 feet from top of pump??Also what is the best tape to use instead of duck tape?Would you still use the electric tape?
 

KennethP.

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The ground doesn't need to be insulated. If that wire is all in one round black jacket, it is my favorite to use in a well. Cycling on and off is what wears wire like that. Using a Cycle Stop Valve will keep that from happening and solves several other problems as well.
I checked that out today.Very Interesting for sure.Think we may just switch to that when I replace my holding tank.
 

Craigpump

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On 1/2 & 3/4 hp pumps we put a torque arrestor over the splices above the pump and every 100' after that, on 1 hp we use 2 above the pump then every 100'.
 

KennethP.

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Thank's for all the info.Been very helpful for sure today.Has been in the 70's this weekend&really hate I didn't do my homework earlier.But,being a Sat&trying to get back going fast didn't help.Was looking at the old wire this evening&found several more area's where jacket was worn off & wire was showing.Just wish I had check'd&double check'd the wire more before putting the old pump out.We ended up wiring it straight to the power supply box&work's just fine.So now I have a extra pump.Alway's learn something new everyday for sure.We going to get&replace with the correct wire,move the torque converter down closer to pump,got'a replace the well cap to.It was busted on the bottom plate.Weather's getting colder this week.I'm a local delivery&pick-up driver for a LTL trucking company.So I go into alot of places&hopefully will buy me some time to get what I need at a little discount we hope.Takecare&glad I ran into this DIY Forum for sure.
 

PumpMd

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The first thing I noticed right off back is that you didn't say if you had a 3wire or 2wire pump, just that the wire's ground wire wasn't insulated.

2wire pump, I would use the 2 insulated wires as your hot wires(black wires) and your green wire for the non insulated wire for it to be ok but I would never recommend using that wire on a 3wire pump, where you have 3 hot wires instead of just 2 hot wires.

On a 115v motor, I would put your two black wires on the 2 insulated wires and use the green wire for non insulated wire.
 

Ballvalve

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On your original question, you used UF cable, pretty tough stuff but likely a bit toxic. I have not heard any claims, however, that dedicated well wire has a NSF cert. For tape use rubber splicing tape and then scotch 33 over that. Better yet, use heat shrink tubing only or over the tape.
 
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