Hello, new here and I need some advice re: shower drain connection. Going from CI stack to 2" PVC and am confused about which way to go. I don't really want to use a "donut" due to sizing issues and would really rather use a no-hub from exsisting lead to PVC. Question is, is this acceptable? Thanks
Advice for cast iron hub shower drain connection
- Thread starter beedees
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Standardairconditioner
HVAC'ker
Show us some pics, diagrams, and especially if all this is into a slab or open access basement.
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Pier and beam w/ floor open right now. Believe it or not, I don't have a camera, but have plenty of room to work. Lead pipe out of CI is 2.230" give or take .005 or so. BTW, I don't think I meant a no-hub, rather a flexible coupling. Thanks
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Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
A banded coupling would be the proper way to connect pipes of different material, but it will not work on lead pipe as the clamping pressure deforms the pipe. If the ferrule is in good condition, you might be get a good seal there, but if not, you are back to the donut or pouring a new lead joint to c.i. or galvanized pipe.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
When they install the lead, at the hub, there is usually a brass pipe that is actually leaded into the hub, then the lead pipe is installed over that. As was said, the issue is that when you tighten up the clamps on the banded coupling, the lead will deform, and the seal won't work. But, if there is a brass stub in the hub, you should be able to use a coupling over that IF you can find one the right size, since the brass will hold the lead and prevent it from deforming when you tighten things up, but you can't just use one without that internal stiffening.
Well, H###, Had plumber out this morning- as usual, wouldn't listen to me and got sent on another wild goose chase. Sucks to be somewhat hard of hearing, plus walking with a cane due to some other health issues. Now, looks like I'm stuck with using a donut. Question is, will MAPP gas on a propane bottle torch work to melt the lead out? BTW way this is a horizonal run. Then I get to try to find a donut to fit.
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Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
I have never bothered trying to melt the lead out of completed joint.
I cut the pipe off, leaving a few inches, and then drill a bunch of holes in the lead until I can pry it out.
I cut the pipe off, leaving a few inches, and then drill a bunch of holes in the lead until I can pry it out.
I think you can drill and pry on that. They make two sizes of rubber sleaves for that. You're almost there. I like using a sleave made for 2" pipe on those.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
There are two classes of hubs, 'normal' and XH for extra heavy and often, it's marked (cast) into the pipe to help you figure out. But, the actual size of those is not an industry standard. Often, there's one major supplier for your area, and the plumbing shops stock the required donut, but not always. If it's too small, you may never get it sealed; if it's too big, you may never get the pipe installed. That's why Fernco makes LOTS of different, incremental sizes.
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