Adequate slope for toilet drain?

[Danester]

EDIT:

Bathroom remodel. ABS stack between kitchen adjoining kitchen san tee and toilet/bath san tee was cracked all the way down (1978 house). Replaced a large section of the stack, including kitchen san tee & trap rough in and I'm now working on roughing in the bathroom DWV piping. I'm basically copying what was in place before, but replacing all of the kitchen DWV pipe that is exposed.

Problem: I'm an idiot and wasn't paying attention to the vertical angle of a 13" (inch) section connecting the bath D/W lines to the stack. I was so concerned about the needed angle in the horizontal plane that I neglected to slope the small section of pipe. As it turns out, it's sloping ever so slightly (less than 1/8") over 13 inches. I have connected a 3x3x1.5" Wye to this section, to which will be connected another 40" of 3" ABS going to the toilet riser/flange. This 40" section I can easily slope 3/4" to 1". I'm hoping the combine drop from the toilet with the adequate slope in the 40" section of pipe will be enough to compensate for the minimal slope in the 13" section.

Question: Do I need to correct the slope in the 13 inch section or will the ~12 inch drop plus 40 inch run with proper slope compensate for my lack of adequate slope in the last 13 inch run to the stack?

Hopefully the newly attached pictures will help illustrate the situation. Note the section of pipe labeled "13 in section with minimal slope." That is the section in question.

 

[Standardairconditioner]

Thanks for joining and posting the forums.

With many new members looking for advice and answers, be reminded that good photos and illustrations always invite an audience that can give faster replies that are less generalized and more suited to your exact needs.

Try to provide at least two photos. Include a closeup of the attention area so we can identify fine details, and include one zoomed out so we can see the rest of the room and things nearby, adjacent areas, floors underneath. Use a black marker to write on blue painter's tape or bright colored Post-It's to mark areas of interest, there is no need to modify your photos with fancy text overlays. Take as many photos as you can, choose the best ones that are clear.

Do include diagrams for plumbing and supply line projects. A scan or photo of a hand drawn illustration done quick on paper is usually easier for most to create than trying to make one in a computer app. We don't need architect schematics, just something simple to help us understand your project.

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Edit the subject title of this post to summarize the exact nature of your issue. "Second story toilet is clogged" will attract more readers than "Help I am in desperate trouble!" which more will ignore, possibly leaving your post unanswered.

While waiting for replies, please make some effort and take the opportunity to search these forums extensively, it is likely that many in the past had your similar issue, and you may find solved solutions quicker than the many days it can sometimes take for you to get answers you want.

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[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

We like to see 1/4" per foot grade on pipe. That would be 3-1/4" in 13 feet.
The vent should be within six feet of the closet flange.
And like mentioned above, some pictures, 800 pixels or less would be nice.

 

[Danester]

We like to see 1/4" per foot grade on pipe. That would be 3-1/4" in 13 feet.
The vent should be within six feet of the closet flange.
And like mentioned above, some pictures, 800 pixels or less would be nice.

Thanks Terry. I hastily posted this from my phone originally, but I've now edited the OP with pictures and a (hopefully) better description of the issue. Note that the section is question is 13 inches, not feet (whew).

 

[Gary Swart]

I think on a 13 inch span you'll be OK. I would point out something I noticed in your photo that should be corrected. You have a connection in your drain using a neoprene sleeve connector (commonly called a Fernco) This particular connector is only approved for underground connections because of the possibility of movement when not surrounded by soil. You should use a banded connector aka no-hub in this application. I'm not sure why you didn't use an ABS glued fitting here.

 

[Standardairconditioner]

He didn't glue it because that vertical was already there.

You can't always bend verticals to slip fittings in.

 

[Danester]

He didn't glue it because that vertical was already there.

You can't always bend verticals to slip fittings in.

This is true. My only experience with a similar situation is with irrigation PVC but in that case I've always been able to dig back more dirt to get the flex I need out of the pipe.

I do realize the Fernco isn't ideal but the typical no hub couplings are only wide enough to cover about an inch on either side of the coupling and my gape between pipes was about an inch itself. If the pipe is reasonably solid (which it is) should I be concerned? I suppose I could get one of the wider, four-band super couplings at a plumbing supply store. I'm not sure I could even get one on now; the stack doesn't flex enough to get a new coupling in place.

 

[Danester]

Thanks everyone.

 

[Gary Swart]

So Mr Standard AC, you cut the pipe off a few inches above the Fernco, slip the no-hub on the lower piece, install a coupling with a length of pipe on the upper piece that will just reach the lower pipe end. The slide the n0-hub up and tighten it.

 

[Danester]

In my very limited experience sliding a no hub coupling isn't exactly easy. Unless I used some sort of grease I'm not sure I could do what you describe. I know that's the general method for a tight fit situation like this where gluing a fitting won't work. Perhaps there's a more manageable no hub coupling brand I can pick up from a plumbing supply store.