Adding Washer Drain to Existing Stack

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DigitalJim

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As part of my basement laundry room remodel, I want to add a 2†drain line to support a washer standpipe. The washer currently dumps into a laundry tub which drains into a 1½†cast iron tee at the base of the stack, partially buried in the floor. On top of the tee is a cast iron wye to support a cleanout, followed by a PVC fitting and reducer (see picture). The cast iron is all 4†and the PVC is 3â€.

My plan is to remove the cast iron wye and transition to a PVC tee using a Fernco fitting into the hub of the cast iron tee that sits at the floor. The new PVC tee will allow connection of the 2†washer drain. I would then locate a new PVC wye and cleanout above the tee. Above the wye I would transition back to the existing 3" PVC stack with a Fernco connector.

I have the following questions about this approach:

1) Is it OK to use a tee to connect the 2†horizontal washer drain to the stack, or must I use a wye fitting? The tee would give me additional clearance to work the drain lines due to its lower profile.
2) Is it OK to locate the cleanout where I suggested? All of my existing stack cleanouts are located right at the floor, but I thought I read that they shoud go above the flood plane of the highest fixture (presumably the the washer stack)?
3) Any problems using a Fernco fitting to connect the PVC to the existing cast iron hub?

Thanks!
 

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Shacko

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Washer Hook-Up

You can do what you propose but, your hook-up needs a trap, a 18in. min. stand pipe and a vent.
 

NHmaster

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never use a wye going from horizontal into a vertical, it creates an S trap.
 

DigitalJim

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Yes, I plan to run about 15' with the 2" drain and add a vent, p-trap, and 30" standpipe.

In addition, I want to move the laundry tub. Is it acceptable to share the 2" washer drain with the laundry tub drain, or must the washer drain be dedicated? My plan was to cap off the existing drain tee at the base of the floor and add a wye to the 2" line to tap in for the sink.
 

DigitalJim

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Yea, that's why I want to cap off the existing drain. When I get everything dry fit, I'll snap a picture and pass it by everyone.

Thanks for your help!
 

Gary Swart

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Do not dry fit PVC or ABS. The tolerances are too tight. You might drive the pipe into the fitting dry, but it will be difficult to impossible to disassemble. Also, you use the term "Fernco" as what you plan to use to make the connections. Fernco is a brand name of a variety of couplers, but the common one most people think of is the neoprene sleeve with 2 hose clamps. These can not be used in above ground applications. What you must use is a banded coupler. These are somewhat similar to the neoprene sleeve, but have a solid band end to end. This provides a ridged joint that the sleeve does not unless it is buried.
 

DigitalJim

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OK, I will not dry fit. At this point I feel comfortable enough with the approach to glue up the connections.

The coupler I purchased is indeed a banded type.
 

Jadnashua

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Fernco also makes rubber donuts that allow you to insert a pipe into a hub through the donut. This expands the donut, making the seal. You must measure the hub to get the right one.
 
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