Adding washer drain/standpipe to existing Copper DWV

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by mwhitis, Mar 6, 2010.

  1. mwhitis

    mwhitis New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    Looking for some help to get my washer drain out of the laundry tub that it's currently draining into. I've got 2" Copper in the wall. I've seen a few posts on here with diagrams for proper washer drains, but looking for advice for translating that to my situation.

    I've attached an image of the current setup. Any help appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Mike

    [​IMG]

    I can post a bigger pic if that's not readable.
  2. jc60618

    jc60618 DIY Junior Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Chicago
    You might need slip couplings for this project in order to buckle in the new vertical piping if done in copper. However you can also do it in PVC and get away with using fernco couplings.

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  3. mwhitis

    mwhitis New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    JC,

    Thanks for the reply. After looking at your diagram, it may even be easier than that. The existing vent for this drain doesn't actually vent all the way to the roof. It actually turns left about the same height as your proposed new vent and then connects into the main vent stack.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like I could just cut that before it transitions into the main vent stack and switch to PVC there with a Fernco Proflex, and then cut the existing drain right above the CI and add a Proflex there or even go straight into the CI with a donut, I suppose.. Then, I could just replace the existing short run of copper vent with PVC and run new PVC for the new vent and drain for the washer. Any problems with that?

    Thanks,

    Mike

    [​IMG]
  4. jc60618

    jc60618 DIY Junior Member

    Messages:
    88
    Location:
    Chicago
    In some places you cant use donuts or push gaskets above ground. If you remove the copper and install pvc into cast iron with a donut, the piping would not be as secure and would flex. Installing a proflex coupling beteen the pvc and copper would work best. You can also use a lead joint from pvc to cast iron but will require special tools. Doing it in PVC with proflex would be easier,cheaper and would work. Make sure that the horizontal vent pipe is 42" above the floor or 6" above the highest spill level. Finally make sure that the p trap for the washing machine is 2" and the standpipe is 18" to 42" above the trap.
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2010
  5. mwhitis

    mwhitis New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    Sorry to drag this thread back up.

    I've decided that while I'm installing the standpipe, I think I want to move the existing drain stub out, as it's facing a bit of an awkward direction. Was thinking about moving it from the side wall to the back wall next to the standpipe.

    Is this new diagram acceptable (borrowing heavily from the laundry stack picture that Terry has posted frequently):

    [​IMG]

    I wasn't sure if the green vent was allowed (not sure why it wouldn't be, but want to make sure I don't "over vent" if that's possible.) I have a lot of problems with lint clogs at the point where the current sink drains into the CI, and I'd like to get a cleanout right there with a straight shot.

    Thanks,

    Mike
  6. shacko

    shacko Master Plumber-Gas Fitter

    Messages:
    561
    Location:
    Rosedale, Md
    If you're only adding the c.o. to the mix you are fine. They make numerous lint traps for wash machines, might be something to look into, luck.
  7. mwhitis

    mwhitis New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    Thanks, Shacko.

    Just to claify, both the blue and the green in the pic are "new". For the blue, I'm adding the standpipe, and moving the drain from the left wall to the back wall (about 3'), and then adding the "green" vent and cleanout where the drain was previously vented (but replacing with PVC).

    I've tried the little Aluminum traps, but they fill up way too quickly. Most of the others that I've seen have been a variation of the same in a bigger form. If you've got a specific recommendation, I'd love to hear it.

    Thanks,

    Mike
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2010
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,485
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    You will have to run the horizontal drain lower and drop the sink drain into it. They do not make a 4 way fitting like you show in your drawing.
  9. mwhitis

    mwhitis New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    hj,

    Thanks for the follow up. I probably would have come to that conclusion after looking for 20 minutes in the fittings aisle. Good info to have ahead of time. :)

    Appreciate it.

    Mike
  10. mwhitis

    mwhitis New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    Guys,

    A Thumbnail with my final plan with fittings is below. If you get a chance, can you take a look at it to make sure I've got the fittings correct?

    Thanks,

    Mike

    [​IMG]
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