Adding a sink in the garage.

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Jasontamu, Feb 17, 2009.

  1. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    hi,

    I need help with the supply lines. if you look at the picture of the drail line i already installed you can see the blue tape and red tape at the existing 1/2 inch copper.

    I tapped into the adjacent wall master bath vanity sinks...one of them.

    I was thinking of cutting the 1/2 copper and then adding a compression Tee fitting then doing copper line with more 90 degree compression elbows to get where i need to go.

    OR

    is there a Tee out there somewhere, that i can Tee into the existing 1/2 copper sink lines and then thread in a long stainless steel flex or pvc line and go straight to the bottom of the sink handles?

    oh, side note, do they have stud repair braces to repair the 5 stud bottoms i killed...lol.
    -J

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    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2009
  2. Furd

    Furd Engineer

    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    Wet side of Washington State
    Are you planning on a revent from the new sink? I think you need one.
  3. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    ? you mean add a vent going up>?? i didnt think i needed one with such a short run?

    - J
  4. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,263
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    1. That was the wrong fitting that you used to tie into the vertical drain. You have created an illegal "S" trap, actually a "3/4 S" trap but just as improper.
    2. What else did you get for Christmas besides a chain saw.
    3. Someone should have given you a ruler so you could at least hack the studs a little closer to the pipe.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2009
  5. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    1. That was the wrong fitting that you used to tie into the vertical drain. You have created an illegal "S" trap, actually a "3/4 S" trap but just as improper.

    Okay, What fitting should i have used?

    2. What else did you get for Christmas besides a chain saw.

    Dewalt reciprocating saw dikc.....

    3. Someone should have given you a ruler so you could at least hack the studs a little closer to the pipe.

    Oh well... im here now... thats for no help here.....any suggestions now?
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2009
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,263
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    drain

    1. That was the wrong fitting that you used to tie into the vertical drain. You have created an illegal "S" trap, actually a "3/4 S" trap but just as improper.

    A sanitary tee.


    2. What else did you get for Christmas besides a chain saw.

    Dewalt reciprocating saw dikc.....

    Maybe they should have given you a DeWalt drill so you could make neat holes.


    3. Someone should have given you a ruler so you could at least hack the studs a little closer to the pipe.

    Oh well... im here now... thats for no help here.....any suggestions now?

    Nope, it is too late for any.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2009
  7. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    1. That was the wrong fitting that you used to tie into the vertical drain. You have created an illegal "S" trap, actually a "3/4 S" trap but just as improper.

    Okay, What fitting should i have used?

    A sanitary tee.


    2. What else did you get for Christmas besides a chain saw.

    Dewalt reciprocating saw dikc.....

    Maybe they should have given you a DeWalt drill so you could make neat holes.

    Yup, got that.......Dewalt XRP...

    3. Someone should have given you a ruler so you could at least hack the studs a little closer to the pipe.

    Oh well... im here now... thats for no help here.....any suggestions now?

    Nope, it is too late for any.

    OK. - ill figure it out..
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2009
  8. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    okay, i see the sanitary tee allows vent air....with the S i made, it can restrict it with heavy water flow at that S point......from what i gather its a problem if you have tons of water going down at once.........for an occasional wash your hands sink.......i think i can live with the S-tee i have.

    I'm here asking because obviously this isn't my line of usual business.......I'm more into installing turbos on cars, engine swaps, etc...

    -J
  9. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    i bought the stud braces and it looks like all but two will fit........yup, i cut two with too much gap..ill probably replace those two stud bottoms and drill screws downward. then brace them..

    -Jason
  10. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    You REALLY need to talk to a structural engineer at this point. You don't want to make your 3D structure a 2D....Having seen your "joist project" plans, I am just saying...
  11. sjsmithjr

    sjsmithjr Geologist

    Messages:
    295
    Location:
    Knoxville, Tennessee
    I can't see your pics right now, but keep in mind that nails bend and screws break. As such, structural framing should never be screwed unless your dealing with specifically designed manufactured assemblies.
  12. BimmerRacer

    BimmerRacer New Member

    Messages:
    174
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    What is a stud brace you purchased? Are you talking about these?
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2009
  13. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    No, they are a complete cut stud brace...kind that wrap around the pipe cut out...

    Those you pictured, i read are for only notching 1/3 of the way..i cut it all the way..

    -J
  14. sjsmithjr

    sjsmithjr Geologist

    Messages:
    295
    Location:
    Knoxville, Tennessee
    Are you talking about stud shoes?

    172e-2009.gif

    Those aren't for total replacement either. If you cut clean through you'll have to sister in another full stud, properly notched.
  15. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    yeah. they look similar to that.....

    lol. in all honesty.......ill probably just put those on and call it a day...

    i understand what you saying about adding an another stud....i may get a section in there, to help it out..

    -J
  16. sjsmithjr

    sjsmithjr Geologist

    Messages:
    295
    Location:
    Knoxville, Tennessee
    What you are proposing to do is akin to changing the oil in an engine with a rod hanging out the side of it.

    If that is a bearing wall, you must put in a properly notched full stud. Even if it's nonbearing wall, you can't just cut clean through it. But first, do me favor and edit a couple of words out of your post #11 for me and I'll edit this sentence back out of mine.
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2009
  17. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12
    its not a bearing wall, its a little wall section from door way to laundry room to garage... i checked up top and double plate headers aren't there.....rafters run opposite...

    -J
  18. halbert09

    halbert09 New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Just for general information and to get back on track a little, with regards to notching the studs for the 2" pipe:

    If you did the job neat and accurate, how much should remain of the 2x4 after you notch it to clear a fitting like the elbows in the picture? 4" lumber is nominally 3.5", what would the OD of a 2" fitting be?
  19. Jasontamu

    Jasontamu New Member

    Messages:
    12

    thats what i was wondering..........im wondering if the norm is to use 1.5 until i got to where the Sanitary tee was supposed to be....

    but then again, those stud shoe's pictured are cut for a 2.5 inch opening for pipe......

    -J
  20. Furd

    Furd Engineer

    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    Wet side of Washington State
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