Acrylic tubs and Firewall in a condo

[Kyle Ashley]

Hello,

I am remodeling my bathroom and am replacing my old steel tub with a new acrylic jetted tub, 32x60. I'm in a condo, and the old tub was set against a firewall that is common between 2 units in the building.

The old installation on the steel tub was 1 sheet of 5/8 Firecode Drywall from concrete ceiling to concrete slab floor, and a 2nd sheet of 5/8 Firecode drywall that ran from the concrete ceiling and then overlapped the tub's tile flange and ended. The firewall is only along the long side of the tub. The back wall and fixture wall was standard 1/2 inch drywall.

I have heard that the fire code may be different for acrylic tubs than steel tubs. Does that mean I'd need to have 2 full length 5/8 Firecode layers of drywall from ceiling to floor before the tub wall, or can I install the acrylic tub in the same manner as the old steel one?

I'm in Florida if anyone there would know the code better.

Thank you!

 

[hj]

firewall

Your city's building department is the only one who can tell you what their requirement would be.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Kyle Ashley]

Thanks for the post! Unfortunately, our building dept has no consistent answer. Different inspectors say different things and I can't really get a straight answer from anyone at City Hall. They basically require me to pull a permit and pass inspection on the wall before I can install the tub.

 

[Jadnashua]

In a situation like that, maybe it is time to ask for the department manager to make a call. Trying to rely on different inspector's varying opinions is not productive for anyone.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

A 1HR firewall is made up of 1 layer of FireX wallboard on each side of a 2x4 or steel stud. A 2HR is 2 layers on each side. Since there wasn't the second sheet to the floor it sounds like a 1HR wall. Underwriter's Labs doesn't test tubs as part of a listed firewall assembly.

I would keep the 1 layer all the way across and if you're nervous, carry the second layer all the way across, with a third over the lip of the tub. It won't hurt to have two layers.

 

[Kyle Ashley]

Thanks for the tips! I am going to run 2 full layers of 5/8 all the way down as I have the room for it, and then add a top layer of 1/4 hardibacker to overlap the tile flange on the tub. I'm not tiling, but using a solid surface tub wall kit that will glue to the hardibacker. The wall material is non-porous so I should be OK with that.

The original installation had regular 5/8 gypsum board and the tiles were just glued on the 2nd layer of gypsum board with a small amount of glue. No thinset was even used. It held up OK for 32 years since it's a guest bath, and only used a couple of times a month for the tub, not shower.

 

[Gary Swart]

I think you're probably headed in the right direction. If there is confusion on the requirements, go the extra mile and CYA. It won't hurt to have the added thickness even if not required, and the addition expenses will be minor.

 

[Kyle Ashley]

Thanks Gary....once we pass inspection, I'll post back.

 

[Toolaholic]

my 2 cents

because of the bld. dept. history. ask them to write it down and sign it.

with a smile on your face not unreasonable

 

[Toolaholic]

one more thought

if you thinset tile over sheetrock it's a temp tile job! unless you have an
EXPERIANCED tile person do a mud job with wire. $$$$$$

ask if you can use 1/2" dura rock , concrete board, than you will have a long lasting affordable job and it's higher fire rated!

 

[Kyle Ashley]

I did change my mind and decided to use 1/2" cement board as my second layer. Should have it done and ready for inspection by Friday. I really went overboard making it solid and placed metal studs every 9 inches. The old stud distance varied between 17-19".

 

[Toolaholic]

thank's for the feed back

and good decesion

 

[Kyle Ashley]

Inspection passed! No problems. Thanks for the tips and pointers! Now things can move along rather swiftly and the big stressor is off of me.

Inspector never said a word or asked a question....He just agreed with me that finding someone willing to work in a condo is impossible no matter the $$. He seemed to understand the frustration of not being able to hire the job out. I will rest easy tonight

 

[KULTULZ]

Inspector never said a word or asked a question....He just agreed with me that finding someone willing to work in a condo is impossible no matter the $$. He seemed to understand the frustration of not being able to hire the job out.

Not meaning to steal the thread (but I guess I have), is it difficult to find contractors to work in fire rated condos? I guess complying with Fire Codes is difficult and expensive?

 

[Jimbo]

Inspection passed! No problems. Thanks for the tips and pointers! Now things can move along rather swiftly and the big stressor is off of me.

Inspector never said a word or asked a question....He just agreed with me that finding someone willing to work in a condo is impossible no matter the $$. He seemed to understand the frustration of not being able to hire the job out. I will rest easy tonight

What is the reason?

In my condo association, the HOA requires homeowners to used licensed contractors, which by law they should anyway, but that rules out some handyman-type companies. Other than that, it is not hard to work here.

I have worked at places that ARE difficult for contractors. There is a well known 20 story high rise down by the beach. Gated access...and unless you pay off the guard, you can't even back up temporarily close to the gate to the garage to unload your truck! Workers are considered slum-class, and cannot use the front door. You go in through the garage, and must use the freight elevator, which the maids are constantly jamming the door open to hold it on their floor for a while. Real PITA, and most people that work there more than once just jack up their rates to cover the hassle!

 

[KULTULZ]

I see your point regarding hi-rise and restricted entry.

I would also assume the contractor has to have one heck of a liability insurance policy and specially trained workers (foreman at the least) which also drives up cost not to mention required materials.

I inquired once about modifying a sprinkler system in a unit so as to have pop-down sprinklers (afraid the standard sprinkler would be hit/damaged). The guy was nice enough to explain to me that if any modification(s) are done, his (sprinkler) company would have to re-test and certify, along with being held responsible for the entire system here out if his company made the modification(s). In short, no he couldn't as the liability would be too costly.

BTW- I am only replacing cabinets here but the drywall was poorly done and I need a flat surface. Amazing how one learns something new everyday. I feel for you guys.

 

[hj]

quote; most people that work there more than once just jack up their rates to cover the hassel

What you describe is the norm for high rise buildings with elevators. If they do not have a freight elevator, and it is an ongoing job, one elevator is usually dedicated to the workmen and you have to wait your turn. Therefore, the job takes a lot longer than it should and EVERYONE "jacks" up their prices. On some construction projects, I have had to wait almost an hour before another crew would release the elevator.