A WTF plastic fitting on old cast iron. Tub drain

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Jeremytl

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Cast iron tub built into the walls. I went to replace a part of the drain. Moved grounding bracket to jump replacement section and when I tightened on the bracket I crushed this plastic pipe. How do I go about this? is beyond me.

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Jeremytl

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I'm definitely not a pro but I just need some guidance. I can't afford a plumber, period.
I didn't know that pipe was plastic until I tightened down on the grounding bracket, who would have thought it was plastic, seeing that everything else is brass, galvanized metal, etc..
So my problem as I see it is, unscrewing the tub drain shoe, the wood will get in the way, at least it appears, which begs the question...how did they get it on there, it must have been installed on the tub before the tub was lowered into place? And I cannot unscrew the fitting at each end of the busted plastic pipe, it is seized. If I could get a rubber hub connector over the tub drain shoe, I think that might be the easier fix...but then I still need to get that fitting at the other end to break free. Any suggestions?
 

FullySprinklered

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The drain unscrews from inside the tub while the shoe remains as it is. There's a tool for that. Heat works on the old connections, in combination with a lot of patience. If you can remove the assembly intact, you can use it as a pattern to set the new w/o prior to installation.
 

hj

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That piece does NOT look like plastic. It looks like severely deteriorated brass tubing, and why would it need a ground clamp? A plumber might fix it in any of several ways depending on which one was easiest, but for you, the easiest way would be to install a new waste and overflow unit.
 

Jeremytl

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This is a struggle for me so I thought it would clear some things up to draw on one of the pics

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The red arrow points to the drain shoe, correct? The blue arrow points to a fitting that should unscrew, correct? The yellow arrow points to the fitting that is seized. Basically, if I can get both fittings that the blue and yellow arrows point to, I am good, correct?Then just replace these pieces with something of the same type.
What are my options if I can't get the two fittings to budge? It appears to me if I have to unscrew the tub shoe I will have to remove some wood to have room to do that.
 
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FullySprinklered

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You're in over your head, Jere. Besides that, you've got 195 years of plumbing experience focused on your problem and you still won't listen to the advice you've been offered. Best to call someone and get the job done.
 

Jeremytl

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ease off, i'm listening. i just made my second trip to lowes to get the right tool to remove the tub shoe. i was given the tool on the right at first but, it is too big. it won't go down far enough to engage that cross piece down inside. the tool on the left isn't the right one but it looked like it might work, i threw a hail mary. so any ideas on how to remove it without leaving the house again? i have a lot of tools.
i did buy the whole waste and overflow unit, just trying to remove the old shoe first.

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FullySprinklered

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Sounds like you're on track. Sorry if I sounded like the ass I really am. Get a blow dryer and roast the drain until whatever fossilized schmutz they used softens up. Then get the forked tool and put it down in the drain. Push it counter clockwise firmly, but not as hard as you can. When that doesn't work, try turning it the wrong way, firmly. Now go back the other way. If it doesn't move, put more heat on it and start over. It'll go, but remember that patience is the key ingredient here. If it takes half an hour, it's cheaper than calling me. Check back as necessary.
 

Cacher_Chick

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You can also cut the shoe off, but you have to be very careful not to damage the porcelain on the tub or it will be a new problem.
 

Jeremytl

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Vise grips on a pair of lineman's pliers broke it free, then i had to get under the house and hold the shoe while my wife turned it from in the tub. she humored me just fine. my "catastrophe" cost $36 to repair (after i return the shoe wrench that didn't fit ). a plastic waste overflow kit and some plumbers putty and a couple hours piddling on these forums cost some plumber a visit to my house. I'm grateful for the help!

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Tom098

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OP, the staining on the wood flooring is a fungal infection attracted by seeping water. Wire brush & spray some fungicide on it - soak the area
 

Jadnashua

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Banded couplings are required above ground, not the rubber sleeve with just the clamps to pass code.
 

FullySprinklered

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I thought he was up a ladder in the basement. But no, he's crawling on his belly like a reptile under the house. My respect grows. Saved a ton on glue.
 
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