A BAD PUMP,A BAD CONTROL BOX OR BOTH?

[Valveman]

The breaker box feed should be in proper sequence.

Phase A-B-C
L1-L2-L3

OK good to know. But the wires to the motor are not labeled. So I still don't know how you get the rotation correct without trial and error?

 

[DonL]

OK good to know. But the wires to the motor are not labeled. So I still don't know how you get the rotation correct without trial and error?

So the motor has no color coded wires or a T1-T2-T3 connection ?

That does not sound good.

I know one thing, I would strap that motor down before powering it up.

Those powerful motors can get away from you. I learned that the hard way.


Have fun, Wear your PPE.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Reda pumps were the best. They don't make them like that anymore. My family actually owned the Reda pump distributor branch for our area after 1970. I even met Mr. Arutunoff in 1973. He was a very nice man. Here is a copy of my Reda class certificate of completion in 1975. I had one from 1973 but it got destroyed when a truck crashed through my office.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah they were better before TRW bought them out. They sort of went downhill after that. They took out all the good brass and started using plastic.

 

[DonL]

Yeah they were better before TRW bought them out. They sort of went downhill after that. They took out all the good brass and started using plastic.

Brass got banned as far as I know. You can still get some NOS pumps.

Brass seemed to last to long, And is bad for you if you lick it to much, Only a mouse in California can test this theory and would know these things.

Brass knuckles are even Plastic now. The Plastic guns are cheaper and work if you want a one shot deal.

 

[Ballvalve]

I wouldn't run that pump unless it is full of water. The seal in an above ground type pump and the wear rings in a submersible would be damaged in a short amount of time. You can switch T1/T2 or you can switch T2/T3, but switching T1/T3 will not change rotation.

I would be very unhappy if a pump installer cut my poly pipe into small sections. If you have the tools to hold the pipe while you cut it, there is no reason why you can't use those tools to get another bite every 20 and not have to cut the pipe.

This is a Do It Yourself forum. So we try to help people who are doing it themselves, as well as suggest when that is not possible and a professional is needed. I have personally pulled pumps by hand on poly pipe that is 200'+, especially when the static water level is high. So it can be done.

I am no gorilla, but I have easily set and pulled 1" poly pipe pumps at 300' with a standby to grab and hold for a break. Also, against all the ideas from the pump guys, that 3/8 black poly rope makes it a no brainer when you back up your truck and wrap it around the rack bar, or a clamped on pipe to the rack if bad access - or a tripod, [NO pulley] and have a guy pay that out or in as it is lowered or pulled. Just reverse that idea when pulling.

Yes. The high water level makes it a charm - once the pump gets into water, its easy going. 1/8" SS cable was the norm around here for years [Grunfos still says use it] and that can be used to not pull, but to hold as you raise it by hand, 2 wraps around a large pipe and good vice grips and gloves.

As to cutting up poly in 20' lengths, thats a real ridiculous redneck solution. If you want to use your rig, [no 'safety rope' to give the pull guy a break, and no experience doing this] -fabricate a clamp from 4x6 lumber - hinge one side, line the pipe cutout with rubber and clamp it on the opposite end every 20 feet while you get a new grab on it. Don't even think about your pipe dog grabber for galvanized. But better yet just get one of those good ol' Oklahoma beer drinking, belly bumping arm wrestlers from the local road house and just pull the damn thing up. It won't be longer than 300' and he will do it for a 12 pack of malt liquor.

As to the guys that understand the benefits of 1 piece poly, I have not gone past 300'. but am getting ready to test out 500'. Now mind you this is a well that had 750' of schedule 40 pvc in it with glued standard couplers. Imagine! survived with light use for 40 years. And that was set by a "professional" pump company - hah!. It did have a safety rope but we also held it every 35' or so in conjunction with a fabricated clamping device

[I used a large excavator as my pump jack] and cut the pipe up, as it certainly was not going back in any well. At the end of this crazy pipe string was a 40 stage Jaquizzi pump that looked like a bangalor torpedo. Tested good after freeing up the crustations, and going to use it again.

Pump guys love those 20' sections of pipe because the homeowner cannot deal with it. [although you can pull those also by hand and just let the pipe bend over with some helpers] Anyone with a well under 300' of pipe is just foolish to set a pump on anything but poly. I think the world established many decades ago that having a weak link every 20' is foolish.

And Valveman, you can change any 2 lines on 3 phase and get a reversal on rotation. Also, Reda pumps were "SUBMERGIBLE" , not submersible - funny.

 

[DonL]

Go ahead and pull them deep polly pumps by hand and see what happens to your back doing that every day lol. I would rather have the customer tell me it's on polly and I bring the right rig out to pull the polly in one piece.

You should lift with your legs not your back.

I learned that the hard way.

 

[Texas Wellman]

You should lift with your legs not your back.

I learned that the hard way.

You should lift with your pump hoist or not at all.

 

[Ballvalve]

You should lift with your pump hoist or not at all.

Got this crappy well at 225' pumping a lot of mud. But a pretty regular guy can grab the cap and lift it up 3 feet with less work than lifting a bag of cement. Since the water level is at about 20' it's a no brainer to pull by hand. It's only a 2 gpm well. but it has an incredible water column. If the water level was at 224' I would use a rig of some sort. But that again is when a rope is very handy, because one guy can pull and one guy can tether it on the rod its wrapped on. You can all stop and have a smoke and a beer at 125' if you are tired.

 

[horacio]

As for the pipe, I would choose the 160 psi polyethelyne and set it perhaps at 220' . You can do this by hand and without special equipment. If you are just supplying your residence, then 1 Hp or less is absolutely enough. You did not say standing water level in the well and what is the GPM of replenishment. For me and 3 dogs, 1/2 HP is enough. I have a rental property with two houses, and a well about the depth of yours - it has never in 20 years with the Myers 1/2 hp pump failed to provide enough water - and there is just a 60 gallon tank for the well. But I keep the pressure set at 45-80, so the pump is running when there is constant use, sort of like a CSV valve. I agree on the Chinese, it is a difficult decision, and of course I prefer to support the US Mfg. who usually have best results in electronic components. As for your winch, it has proven easy for me to pull pumps on poly pipe from 350' by hand without distress. Your purchase from has best warranty, but perhaps you should look at the actual supplier. Sometimes it is best buy and just as safe.

If you are airline mechanic, then you will be very detail person about the purchase. Good thing. I would go to 3 phase on my land but distance and wiring is difficult. If your well is close to your electric panel, then it is easy choice. Take a look at the Florida pump company site - they have a good selection and have been in business for many years.

 

[horacio]

As for the pipe, I would choose the 160 psi polyethelyne and set it perhaps at 220' . You can do this by hand and without special equipment. If you are just supplying your residence, then 1 Hp or less is absolutely enough. You did not say standing water level in the well and what is the GPM of replenishment. For me and 3 dogs, 1/2 HP is enough. I have a rental property with two houses, and a well about the depth of yours - it has never in 20 years with the Myers 1/2 hp pump failed to provide enough water - and there is just a 60 gallon tank for the well. But I keep the pressure set at 45-80, so the pump is running when there is constant use, sort of like a CSV valve. I agree on the Chinese, it is a difficult decision, and of course I prefer to support the US Mfg. who usually have best results in electronic components. As for your winch, it has proven easy for me to pull pumps on poly pipe from 350' by hand without distress. Your purchase from has best warranty, but perhaps you should look at the actual supplier. Sometimes it is best buy and just as safe.

If you are airline mechanic, then you will be very detail person about the purchase. Good thing. I would go to 3 phase on my land but distance and wiring is difficult. If your well is close to your electric panel, then it is easy choice. Take a look at the Florida pump company site - they have a good selection and have been in business for many years.

Just a quick note to inform you that I did no purchase a Franklin Motor because they are made in Mexico and went to buy the complete Grundfos
pump thinking that I was going to have a U.S made product to my satisfaction. Well,that did not happen,the 2HP-3phase grundfos pump I received
had the motor made in Mexico and the pump,U.S made has 2 rusty spots on the lower hosusing that bolts to the motor. I feel betrayed and very
unhappy.

 

[PumpMd]

Franklin makes the best motors in the business. F&W has made in America motors 3hp or less but I haven't got to try them out yet.

 

[horacio]

Franklin makes the best motors in the business. F&W has made in America motors 3hp or less but I haven't got to try them out yet.

I agree with you,but now the Franklin motors are made in Mexico and with that in mind I belive that the quality is not the same as when
were made in U.S. Not too long ago I needed a metal file,unable to find a good U.S made Nicholson bought a Brazilian made one and it
is cheap quality. Hard to find good quality tools,is sad.