4" cast iron closet flange

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by lazypineapple, Jan 18, 2010.

  1. lazypineapple

    lazypineapple New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Texas
    I'm needing a 4" closet flange with a 3" long neck.
    to repair my Throne.
    my set up is a Cast iron flange that is pressed into a rubber seal that is press into the eL.
    the flange top is gone and I busted the 4" pipe that , what was left of the broken flange.
    i have removed the broken flange, found a new rubber seal. but here in Texas they say i can't buy a cast flange to push back into the seal.
    they want me to press a 2" or 3" inch long piece of cast pipe into my rubber seal and then insert a PVC flange repair unit ( the kind with 3 screws you tighten making a seal ).
    are 4" cast flanges availble with a 3" neck?
    if so where can i buy?

    thanks,
    I hate opening a can of worms........
  2. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,142
    Location:
    South*East
    What do you have to work with a 4" hub or a broken piece of 4" cast iron pipe , and how far below the floor is the pipe or hub?

    John
  3. lazypineapple

    lazypineapple New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Texas
    I removed the 4" broken pipe
    i got the 4" broken pipe out and the rubber gasket out of the Hub ? if thats what its called.
    so what i have is the 90` that is in the slab. Looks like the opening it's a little under 5" ID

    the rubber seal I got fits my 90
    and I assemble it with a 3"long piece of 4" cast pipe (new, that old broken one was pretty bad shape.)
    and the PVC Flange Repair kit ,Is a good fit.
    and this should work ok.

    but why go thru the trouble of useing a Flange repair kit with a cast iron sleeve,
    instead of just using a 4" cast flange.
    Can you not buy a 4" cast iron flange wth a 3" or 4" neck.?
    these days. :)

    Also,,,
    Can I use 4" PVC instead of the 4" cast, for my sleeve in this setup. ?
    the 4" pcv I have is a hair larger OD than the cast pipe I have. and seems to make a tighter fit in this rubber seal I have.?
    thanks
  4. RocknTJ

    RocknTJ New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Woodbridge, VA
    I'm wondering if the 90 has a hub on it? If it does you could use an inside hub furnco with PVC and set the flange that way.
  5. lazypineapple

    lazypineapple New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Texas
    Hub?
    can someone describe what a Hub is?
    is it the flange part of the 90.
    or the flange at the end of the pipe?
    this 90 has a larger step with a lip and a groove on the end.
  6. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,142
    Location:
    South*East
    Yes you can use the PVC the glue the new flange to it. They make PVC flanges with a stainless steel ring instead of all plastic. Just be sure you screw it to the floor.

    John
  7. lazypineapple

    lazypineapple New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Texas
    Glue the flange? but i have a Repair Flange,
    here's some pics

    this is the broken flange neck, that i removed.
    [​IMG]

    here is the new rubber gasket with a fresh piece of cast iron pipe
    [​IMG]

    heres the Repair Flange with the cast pipe
    [​IMG]

    this where i was thinking of using the PVC sleeve instead of the cast sleeve.
    I will have to fill the void with concrete around the flange. this house never had the flanges bolted to the slab.
    at first I thought the concrete was deteriorated. But it is not after i vacumed the dirt and debri out it looks like some troweled around the opening,
    these toilets always rocked. slab is not very flat around the opening.
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,820
    Location:
    New England
    The toilet is attached to the flange. If the flange is not well anchored, that connection is not stable. WHenever you install a toilet, you need to ensure it doesn't rock. Use shims as necessary to prevent it from rocking. ANy movement will break the wax seal and is probably why the old flange rusted away. If done right, there should be no leakage of water or gasses. The only way you could get away without fastening the flange to the slab is if it was leaded in and made of cast iron. A press-fit unit should always be anchored. If you prefer, you can substitute pvc into that rubber donut in the bell of the el and glue a pvc standard flange to that stub. Since you have some room around it, you could put in the screws then pack the cement around it rather than drilling and anchoring. It will take awhile to gain full strength, but should be okay. Keep in mind that if you are going to finish the floor (say tile or something like that), the flange should sit on top of the finished floor.
  9. lazypineapple

    lazypineapple New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Texas
    it finally dawn on me what john is saying.
    just build my own flange of PVC.
    Glue a PVC flange to a length of 4" PVC pipe and press it into my rubber seal.............Douh
    and yes mount it to the slab.

    I just wasn't too crazy about using the Flange Repair because of the way to is choked down from 4" to 3"
    thats why it was stuck in my head about a cast iron flange........Douh
    BTY i found 4"x4" cast flanges at KeithSpecialty
    Thanks
  10. johnjh2o1

    johnjh2o1 Plumbing Contractor for 49 years

    Messages:
    1,142
    Location:
    South*East
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