1948 parts - Help!

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by findmatt77, May 25, 2008.

  1. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    I've installed a new tub surround in a 1948 duplex. As a result, the flange that covers the stem and packing nut will no longer attach properly.

    I've included a photo of the faucet handles before the new tub surround was installed. The problem is the new surround is thicker, and the threaded piece that secures the pyramid flange(trim piece) isn't long enough to reach the threads on the packing nut.

    Does anyone have any suggestions about where I might obtain one of those trim screws that's a little longer? If I can't, what are my options for extending the pipe/stem out of the wall about 1/4" more?

    Thanks for the help.

    Attached Files:

  2. leejosepho

    leejosepho DIY scratch-pad engineer

    You might consider shortening those covers. A skilled machinist could do that without damaging them, or maybe you could do that at home in some other way. A belt sander comes to mind. In any case, the cut edges against the wall could/would ultimately be lightly caulked, and you would not have to be concerned about rust since those old parts are likely chrome-plated brass.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Location:
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    nipples

    Those escutcheon nipples are a common item at many plumbing stores and ALL faucet parts stores. You buy a 12" length with the correct thread, (take you old one with you), and then cut off what you need. That is probably an American Standard faucet according to the handles and escutcheons.
  4. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Edit: Got it. Did a little research. Anyone have any recommendations about a good supply shop in Portland, Oregon?

    HJ - excuse my ignorance, but when you say escutcheon nipple, exactly what part of the faucet assembly are you referring to? (I'm trying to envision what part would be 12". I suspect it's the entire stem/packing nut assembly. If so, you're suggesting I replace the entire thing, only at a different length...)
    Last edited: May 25, 2008
  5. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

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    THe nippple referred to is the threaded "pipe" dealie, that connects to the packing nut, and allowe the pyramid shaped escutcheon to be attached. Get a long piece, and cut off the necessary length
  6. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

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    Location:
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    The part in the picture below labeled #7 is the escutchion nipple.

    [​IMG]
  7. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    And the battle rages on!

    Thanks for all the help thus far. As it turns out, I needed to replace the stems on both faucets(hot & cold), so I've been able to use a different flange that comes with proper escutcheons.

    New problem: I have the new stems installed, but the hot faucet now leaks where the old pipe in the wall meets the new brass stem(see photos). The water drips right at the point where the stem threads into the wall pipe(where the shiny brass meets the dark, old pipe). I tried re-installing with the addition of pipe dope, but the drip is still there.

    I'm grateful for your suggestions.

    Attached Files:

  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    Location:
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    leak

    You probably lost the rubber/plastic sealing gasket that fits at that point ot stop any leaks.
  9. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    The gasket is definitely there. I did apply a little silicone grease to that gasket. That wouldn't be a problem would it?
  10. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

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    Location:
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    On the American Standard Renu fixture leakage at that point may be caused by too thick of a washer between the stem and the barrel so the gasket is not contacting the valve body.
  11. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Redwood - not sure I follow. There's a pretty thick rubber washer that came with the new stem... it rests between the stem and the wall pipe(is barrel the proper name for the wall pipe?). Are you suggesting that washer might be too thick?
  12. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    The top image in the picture below is the stem an the bottom is the barrel.

    [​IMG]

    The barrel actually contains the seat and should be replaced as well.
    There is a brass washer that goes between the 2.
    There are also several different stems an barrels used. You may not have gotten a good enough match. If you srew the stem into the barrel but do not screw the cap into the valve body the barrel should pull out when you pull on the stem.
  13. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Much clearer to me now. Thanks. (The stem that I bought was packaged with the barrel. So I assume they're a good match.)

    So you think if the brass washer is too thick, there's a chance the rubber washer on the front of the stem isn't making a good connection?
  14. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
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    That is correct.
    It is a fine line between the barrel being loose and the cap nut gasket not sealing. Your mission is to have both happen!
    Add in the possibility of wrong parts!
    What I want to know is are you having fun yet!:D
  15. findmatt77

    findmatt77 New Member

    Messages:
    11
    So would the troubleshooting process entail simply trying a thinner washer between the barrel and stem?

    Fun, no. Learning a lot, yes.
  16. Redwood

    Redwood Master Plumber

    Messages:
    7,450
    Location:
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    Well try it with out and see what happens

    That will at least tell you if if is possible with the existing parts

    I cheat somewhat... I have dial calipers and brass shim stock
    Last edited: May 26, 2008
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