1941 Toilet Flange

[67Gizmo]

This is 1941 ranch house with a cement floor between the main floor and basement. It has cast iron pipes. The flange has finally rusted away. The hole is an oval shape that the pipe goes through and it looks like they used grout or some type of cement between the pipe and base of the flange to wedge the pipe for rigidity. I have access to everything through the unfinished basement. It looks like there is something like lead holding the flange and pipe together. How do I remove the old flange? Once I get it off, I think I have to attach a replacement flange to the pipe as was done before, because the hole is too large and there is not enough surface for 4 bolts, only the back two. I need to know how to remove the old flange and replace it.

 

[Gary Swart]

Since you have access to the pipe under the floor, I'd suggest you cut the cast iron pipe and transition to PVC. You can rent a cast iron cutter. Make the transition with a banded coupler that is sized on one end for cast iron and for PVC on the other. The new flange should set on top of the finished floor and be screwed though the finished floor into the sub floor. Obviously, the sub floor and finished floor should come pretty close to the flange for support, so you may need to take up at least some of the floor to do this.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[67Gizmo]

Thank you for responding. The problem is I don't have a wood floor and subfloor. It is cement between the upstairs and downstairs and I think that is where I have to be careful to not crack the cement floor. I think that is why I have to use cast iron to keep the rigidity.

 

[Jadnashua]

Assuming it is a 4" pipe, cut things off, replace with pvc, get the part going through the floor nice and plumb at the proper position (leave it maybe a foot long so you can check it easier), then anchor it well using hydraulic cement. This stuff sets fast and expands as it sets...it will give you a strong anchor for the pipe. Once you've got that in, you can cut the pipe off flush with the floor and glue in an internal flange. Give it a few hours and drill some concrete anchors to then anchor the flange properly to the floor. If it's 3", then you don't want to use an internal flange. You could pack it with the hydraulic cement from below - you could set the flange flat on the floor - have someone hold it down flat while you pack the cement in from below.

A pro may have some other thoughts, but this should work.

 

[Dunbar Plumbing]

Replace with PVC, you can do this like the pictures show, just wedge board it in so you can pour concrete to support the piping.

 

[Redwood]

Boy oh boy this sure looks familiar see my answer to it in your other post I answered!

 

[MG]

I'd cut it in two places. First cut it off just above the cast iron hub (just below the floor). Then cut off the rest of it near the tee w/side inlet leaving a couple of inches or more to put a no-hub connector on. Then you'll have room to work to get that old flange and pipe piece out. If its rusted bad it should come out w/a bit of effort, then you can go w/PVC.

Just my unprofessional opinion.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

The lost art of pouring a flange

Of course I realize that this is a lost art, but hear me out ....

Uless you want to replace the whole thing with PVC

Before you do any of this you might want to go
look for an OATY expansioin flange that fits
down into that pipe.....and save yourself a lot of greif..



to replace the FLANGE ONLY

All you have to do is get a nice sharp cold chisel
and get a nice East-wing hammer......

then all you got to do is hit the cast falnge till is snaps
and cracks into many peices,,,

then all you got to do is break off that flange and clean off
all the debris and lead that is around the flange.....

then all you got to do is replace the flange with a NEW ONE
for about $15 bucks....

Now here is the lost art part...

then all you got to do is get some oakum, re-use the lead
that fell out of that flange or maybe get more.....

pack the flange tight with oakum, so that their
is about an inch of fall from the lip of the flange down to the packed oakum...

Heat the lead up in a ladel and then pour the lead
into the gap between the flange and the pipe.

let it cool then use a chisel and tap down the lead..

pouring hot molten lead to make a joint is kinda fun..
My dad used to let me do it when I was 10
years old and I still got the scars to prove it.......


I should take pics and post them to
show how this is done the next time I
got to tangle with one.......

if you dont have the time, tools or patience, I
would try the OATy expanding flange first..........


have fun