Crazy question. I have a 16" rough in new construction. Trying to figure best way to handle it. I want to use the Vespin II 14" unifit. Is my best bet to use an Oatey or Sioux Chief offset or have the plumbers tear up the floor and move the drain back 2 inches. Based on their performance I have very little faith in these plumbers.
16" rough in
- Thread starter Bob Cowan
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How is it that you could put in an offset flange to change the net offset to 14.5 inches from 16.0 but you could not move the offset to 12.0 inches from the finished wall? Is there a big beam in the way, or what? If you go to 12, you won't have to buy a Unifit adapter for the Vespin II (12 is included), and you would have other toilet choices if you wanted.
http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/closet-flanges/offset-flange/fullflush Some offset flanges are pretty good if needed.
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12.0 + 1.5 =13.5 inches. 16-13.5 leaves the toilet 2.5 inches plus the .75 to 1" already built in leaves you 3.25 3.5 off the wall.
hj
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quote; ow is it that you could put in an offset flange to change the net offset to 14.5 inches from 16.0 but you could not move the offset to 12.0 inche
The opening is at 16" so an offset to the rear would make it approximately 14", but rotating it the front would make it almost 20". There is NO way an offset collar would change it to 12".
The opening is at 16" so an offset to the rear would make it approximately 14", but rotating it the front would make it almost 20". There is NO way an offset collar would change it to 12".
I am not trying to use a 12". I want to use the 14" but I still need to get the toilet 2 inches closer to the wall. My question is should I have the plumbers dig up the slab and move the drain those 2 inches or us an offset from Oatey or Sioux Chief to gain those 2 inches.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
If they're going to tear up the floor, go for a 12" rough-in...then, should you change your mind down the road, you'd have access to nearly any toilet out there. Some offset flanges work, some don't, but any will require cracking out at least some slab to fit it in place, so why not go the distance and do it 'right'? You want an offset flange that essentially has a built-in angle, not one that has a wide, shallow step with an offset hole.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
I concur with Jim. The 12" rough-in is standard so the whole world of toilets is open to you. A little more more and expense now will soon be forgotten. Trying to adapt a 16" rough-in will always good odd. New concrete should be a little bit easier to break.
Thanks for the follow up. I wish it was that easy. I've spent days researching this thing. I am being told they can only move the drain two inches back toward the wall. Not sure why that is, but that's what I am being told. I have another plumber that has done work for me at my last house coming out to consult. If they can move it 4" I would gladly go with the 12" and then I can just use the Toto Drake that I originally purchased.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
There seems to be an unknown problem here. Why was the rough-in 16" to begin with, especially in new construction? The answer to that might explain why it would not be possible to move the it 4".
If you look at my original post I stated "Based on their performance I have very little faith in these plumbers." There are actually more problems than I am discussing here. I'm just trying to get some input on this issue.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
Perhaps you should get a second or third opinion from other local plumbers. The opinions we have given don't seem to answer your question. As I just said, there seems to be a problem we are not seeing. Breaking a slab a few inches does not seem to represent a problem from the information given. So, if you have doubts about those plumber that say it can't be done, call somebody else that can look at the job in person. I'm still saying that concrete can be cut and chipped without a great deal of problem, and if it is just a misplace drain, it can be fixed.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
If it is a post-tensioned slab, AND, if moving it would require cutting a cable, then it's not a good thing to do. But, that type of slab isn't all that common everywhere, and unless it's a 'normal' thing where you live, it's more likely just a reinforced slab on grade. The only other thing I can think of at the moment is if there is a big footer closer to the wall, and digging through all of that could mean cutting lots more than the slab, depending on how deep the pipe is and the width of the footer..
Gary Swart
In the Trades
You're headed in the right direction. Please let us know how this is resolved.
