1/4 Turn Washer Valve Replacement

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Squeak

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In preparation for a new washing machine to be delivered, the handle on my cold water shutoff valve broke off. After some fiddling, I was able to figure out how to use a wrench to be able to turn it off and on -- but it is not ideal.

I would like to replace the valve (and since I am doing one, might as well do the hot as well). I am having a little issue figuring out what exactly to buy.

Based on this pictures (two from today, and one from when the house was built), the CPVC comes into the box, and looks like there is a transition to the brass right at the end there, and a valve is threaded into the connection. It is an Oatey valve and box, if it helps at all.

Is it just as simple as unscrewing out the valve at the top, and leaving the female metal connection attached to the plastic, and get a new valve to screw onto there?

Any recommendations on a high-quality part I can buy to fit here? Since I can shut it off with the wrench, I have a little bit of time to order the right part.
 

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hj

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IF it comes apart there, and your photo is not clear about that, you need a new valve EXACTLY like it to screw into the 'adapter ". And IF it comes apart it usually takes a lot of effort initially to get it to turn.
 

Jadnashua

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Most (not all) common valves for threaded connections (pipe thread) are female, and yours appears to need a male. It will be risky to unscrew the existing valve without putting a lot of torque on the plastic which might crack in the process. You'd want to put a wrench on the hex to support the pipe, then try to unscrew the valve.
 
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Keep the green bits.

Wrench off the red bits.

Replace with dahlvalve. Not sure what dahlvalve is? dahlvalve.com is a start.

Still not sure? Might be a good idea to call a pro.
Washer_Valve_Replacement_with_dahlvalve.jpg
 

Squeak

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Thanks standardairconditioner -- that is what I was assuming and asking about as well.

Before I even attempt to unscrew the red-colored valve, I wanted to make sure I wasn't going down a path that was not recoverable easily -- something about disturbing working systems and it taking a while to fix (especially when dealing with laundry and disrupting my wives workflow).

It would be easiest if I could just get a new handle to screw on. The valve closes just fine -- it is only the connection between the handle and the valve that broke off.
 
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It would be easiest if I could just get a new handle to screw on. The valve closes just fine -- it is only the connection between the handle and the valve that broke off.
I guess you didn't look up dahlvalve.

dahlvalve isn't cheap to break like this.

A pro can swap both with dahlvalve in 10 minutes total.

Still not sure? Might be a good idea to call a pro.
 

Reach4

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Are you presuming that the thread on the "keep" piece is a standard thread, or do you know?
I'm 75% sure from the bad pic they look like 1/2" NPT, but regardless you may want to take a look at dahlvalve's entire catalog of about a thousand valves that cover everything made on the planet since history.
 

Reach4

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If I wanted to investigate that, I would try unscrewing one of the valves and measuring the thread before seeking a replacement. A digital caliper and a thread gauge would make that easy. A digital caliper without the thread gauge would be workable. A vernier caliper or micrometer would work too, of course.

I was guessing that the visible threads were part of the valve, but I don't know.
I think he could buy that whole box for under $40 and cannibalize it for parts.
 
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Squeak

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I guess you didn't look up dahlvalve.

dahlvalve isn't cheap to break like this.

A pro can swap both with dahlvalve in 10 minutes total.

Still not sure? Might be a good idea to call a pro.

Yes, I looked at the Dahlvalve website and their catalog. Their washing machine valves look almost identical in options to Oately's -- which I looked at as well. But all pictures show both the "male" valve inside the "female" adapter that is coupled to the supply line. I need just the "male" valve.

I was hoping, before I try and tear apart a working washing machine situation, to see if I could have some more certainty to one of these valves being able to replace it (ie. are they standard -- and it sounds like mixed opinion on if they are or not).
 

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Squeak

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I'm 75% sure from the bad pic they look like 1/2" NPT, but regardless you may want to take a look at dahlvalve's entire catalog of about a thousand valves that cover everything made on the planet since history.

I can look at the entire catalog, but doesn't tell me what my CURRENT situation is -- that is where the concern is.

If I wanted to investigate that, I would try unscrewing one of the valves and measuring the thread before seeking a replacement. A digital caliper and a thread gauge would make that easy. A digital caliper without the thread gauge would be workable. A vernier caliper or micrometer would work too, of course.

I was guessing that the visible threads were part of the valve, but I don't know.
I think he could buy that whole box for under $40 and cannibalize it for parts.

Just in case it is not clear, the threads are on the valve, and not the "female" adapter.

What I am probably not clear about is the worry that in the process of trying to take the old one off, and then realizing I don't have a good replacement, that I can't get the existing one back on and working as it once was (disturbing an exiting working system), and I now cannot use the washing machine, etc.
 

Jadnashua

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Hold the adapter on the plastic with a wrench while trying to unscrew the valve. You don't want to put a lot of strain on the plastic itself, but once you do that, it should be fairly obvious what's required.
 
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