Search results

just hire a professional. they'll handle everything in the best way they know how. look for a smaller shop. ask around. doing this yourself can have bad repercussions. i've jackhammered up way too many DIY jobs that didn't flow, blocked, glued but not primer and on and on. just save time/money...

definately move your wye for the kitchen and the wash box further back behind the bathroom group. you don't want the washer dumping water into the main drain ahead of the bathroom group.

in my experience, the plumber is the one that needs to fix a sheetrock screw or nail accident, so ultimately he is responsible. the gc usually has to eat the extra time/material. always always always use nailplates. if your a 'rocker, and you hit a pipe, just save the plumber the trouble of...

hire a professional, this work is way out of scope for a DIY. This is plumber grade material.

i was always taught santee's weren't to be buried dry unless absolutely nessecary, that a combo or other method should be used if possible... that could well just be my neck of the woods.

dubldare--- need help? send me a pm, i've recently been laid off. I'm in Northfield.

not trying to discourage ya, what i'm tryin to say is be ready for a serious culture shock. lol, the shovel is your friend. My first boss told me i'd better name the shovels on the van, because we were about to become great friends :D

you make it sound like 'on the job training' is easy. try busting your hump in the rain snow sleet and brown stuff for 5 years, before you even get close to MN journeymen's hours regs. Now, try and pass the test. this business is not for the meek or mild, as my first boss used to say.

what kind of pipe are you joining? make sure you got the right stuff

i was also taught that a wiped swt (solder) joint isn't likely to leak. still could, but less likely

yup pipe must be dry, clean and EVENLY fluxed. use MAPP gas torch, propane is bunk imho... make sure your solder is 95/5 or 100% water safe... hope this helped

personally, i have crimped once (i'm a pro, btw) and it was an instant leak. we use real wirsbo and rings to expand. i would never crimp pex again, because a correctly expanded fit should never leak or 'stress out'

i'd just goto the back of the shower, remove the drop ell ear and replace it and any other sketch fittings. tthats just me though. why screw around? then install the shower head with four rounds of teflon tape and a light layer of pipe dope. use only tape on the part of the shower arm that...

you don't know what the plumber is contending with. he most certainly knows about friction loss, even though its fairly minimal with pex. that said, and considering the price of fittings, he didn't use a single fitting he didn't need. so, i'd say if your really at a loss of sleep, ask him to...

shut of the water to the silcock and drain it by turning it on. most homes around here have a seperate valve to turn off the silcocks, failing this shut off the water behind the meter, leave the silcock open to disapate heat. use a mapp torch to heat the solder joint... when it becomes molten...

pex is simple to work with, just don't install it anywhere it might rub against something. secure it well. i'd assume your connecting to copper, which means you'll need to swt a brass pex adapter to your copper... fittings are expensive, but battery op pex expanders aren't cheap, try $2600...

take care not to strip the packing nut, it is very mallable metal. i suggest using a 4inch crescent wrench in lieu of a channel locks... just my .02

be very careful when inflating test balls, ie, don't look down the pipe! they can break and it will maim you. if you have water behind an inflated bag, let grab a buddy and have one person hold the bag while the other SLOWLY lets the air out. loosing a bag into the underground = jackhammer...