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I'm going to seal that gap from the inside of the pipe/flange junction. I think that this was the cause of the sewer gases escaping into the bathroom. I'm surprised that there was no leak. As far as the shimming, I plan to dry fit the toilet and shim with composite shims, remove the toilet...

Gentlemen, I've been having issues with sewer gases emanating from a toilet. Some poking around found that the gases were coming from the bottom. The toilet is a Toto not sure what model but it is a 1.6l flush. Removed the toilet and found that the flange is crooked and there is a gap in the...

Kill two birds...blow in insulation. I wrapped my PEX pipes and blew in cellulose to about r40, but then again I'm in Houston.

Why not stub out in copper?

Buy one off ebay. After you are done sell it on ebay, you will be able to recoup most if not all of your money back.

I believe that you can use the expansion system on the Viega manabloc. Uponor has its own modular manifols that you can put together. It comes in 3 and 4 valve sections. It also allows you to custom configure the inlet and outlet sizes. Personally, I'd go with the Uponor system, but it is...

No, those have inlet/outlet that are too big for my residential application. I ran a 3/4 supply with 1/2 drops. I used these: http://www.supplyhouse.com/EP-Multi-Port-Tees-485000 Pick your poison (your application needs). I used the flow through multiports on the hot side as I ran a loop. On...

I went with copper stub-outs with ears as well. I was contemplating a manifold, but used what Uponor calls multiport tees of the individual zones so that I could run a dedicated hot water return line. Used to wait 5+ minutes for hot water, now it is about 30-45 seconds after I press the...

I'd go with Uponor. Just finished my total repipe with EP fittings, not one leak. I would think the general consensus is Pex A is the one to go with if you are not doing copper.

The system is cheap. Installs on the inlet to the water heater. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aqua-Pure-AP430SS-Hot-Water-Filter-System-3-4-NEW-Fast-Free-Ship-/262273083316?hash=item3d10b1a7b4:g:n~kAAOSwGotWsQFy

Have you tried adding an anti-scale system, like the one from aqua-pure? You might want to get your water tested as the aqua-pure system can only handle so much.

Looks like a nice design. There are a total of 4 O rings, one being in the box. Says they have a 5 year warranty. Seems very easy to maintain/replace O rings. Before I mess with things I usually look it up on the net. There are some nice Youtube videos on the box. Would be excellent for...

So what is the general consensus on how to make drywall cuts to stub out at toilet and under sinks when repiping? Would you make the cut to include the old stub out (below), exclude (above), or cutting to the middle of the exit hole on the piece of drywall that you are removing? If I'm using...

I read a UPC cheat sheet at HD this afternoon and the WH, if it is on the ground, should be on concrete that is 3" minimum. I guess when they wrote ground, they really mean the ground and not a finished floor/tile etc.

507.3 Ground Support. A water heater supported from the ground shall rest on level concrete or other approved base extending not less than 3 inches (76 mm) above the adjoining ground level. So if my water heater is in my utility room on the floor, it should be raised at least 3 inches of the...

I'm in the same boat. From what I understand 1/2" to the hot fixtures is what you want to lessen wait times. I'll be going with the plastic or EP fittings as much as I can. As far as the turns, it is about 6-8 inches.

I don't have much choice because of the layout, but the manifold would have to be close to the water heater. I could run two lavs of one 1/2" line to the baths and that washer and half bath. Running a recirc from the manifold would work if I used sub manifolds. I would run a 3/4" from water...

Did you insulate both hot and cold lines? Did you use pex with pre-installed insulation? I have an old under the lav recirc pump I got from costco. I could probably use that on the return line to pump the hot water back to the cold side at the water heater or under the furthest lav. This is...

I'm in Houston and in the summer my cold water is very hot. I would home run the hot water lines and trunk and branch the cold water lines due where the water comes into the house and location of the water heater. I have thought about insulating the cold water lines to help with condensation...

Not really sure how to describe my setup but it is close to a 3 bath (2 full bath, 2 half baths), would 3/4" to and from water heater with 1/2" drops or 1/2" home run for hot suffice?