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That was for something Wjcandee suggested, but I think he thought I was dealing with copper and thus suggested cutting and using a compression valve. What I was wondering from you was on the Dahl 33-2386-A you mentioned, do you remember if on the 1/2 inch end there is a swivel for bolting it on...

Wjcandee, On second thought, I can't use the compression idea because what I'd be cutting is brass pipe and not copper. The piece that is sticking out of the wall is a brass nipple screwed into a copper fitting/pipe. I'm considering trying to remove the nipple and install a shorter one, but I...

Mr. Love, On the Dahl 33-2386-A, do you remember if on the 1/2 inch end there is a swivel for bolting it on or do you have to rotate the whole valve around to tighten it? If the later, I think I'll have clearance issues with the floor. From your picture, I'd say it has a swivel as you are...

I don't know why not. As long as the cutting action doesn't break the soldered joint in the wall. After doing that, I might get away with a standard, straight 1/4 turn valve putting the handle opposite the toilet. Thx

Thanks again for the code clarification. It's just not as clean as install compared to your images. All the supply lines have a 5" to 7" nipples sticking out the sheet rock instead of having a nice install flush with the sheet rock. Of course being an older house, who knows who messed with it...

Many thanks Mr. Love. I'm going to try a straight through valve, I can find here locally, with the handle to the opposite side and see if this gives me enough clearance first, but this is going to be my fall back option. I really only need about a 1/2 inch. I don't know what code was in 1978...

Mr. Love, I'm doing a remodel with a similar situation as the valve in your post #7. I was wondering if you could tell me brand/part numbers for the right angle adapter & compact shutoff valve you show in your top picture? In my situation the supply pipe sticks out about 5 inches from the...