Search results

But if you drop down to the irrigation controls like that then there's no vacuum breaker on the irrigation branch only the hose branch?

How do you transition then? You're not allowed polypipe inside and not allowed PEX out?

I'm running a 1/2" PEX to outside (painted for UV protection) where it then splits to a hose branch and a branch for the sprinkler valves. Is there such a thing as a PEX backflow preventer? Hose bib vacuum breakers are easy to find but not sure what to put on the sprinkler branch pipe (3/4 polypipe)

It's worked for years. Not pinched because it is draining when I disconnect

Bit of a strange one. At the end of the cycle, my dishwasher is not draining The line has a high loop for the air gap. To solve, - I took the hose off the drain connector - I turned on the pump manually on the cycle - nothing came out - I lowered the hose to ground level - turned on the pump -...

Yeah but the condensate pipes go to a crawl space. I don't want to pump the water back up to a laundry room. If I use a floor drain, there's no floor. So, can I just "suspend" the floor drain or create a stand pipe in the crawl space?

At the moment there is a 1-1/4 abs pipe in the wall that goes up to where the AC is and the pipe comes out on the crawl space but it's not connected to any sewer plumbing yet. We're having the AC installed soon and I'm wondering how best to set this up. I don't really want to connect it straight...

If I pull on the stem nothing moves. Impossible to pull it out - the plastic part that sticks up from the top. Can't turn the limiter either. Edit: got the bottom off. Can't reset the stem as it's attached with a pin. I tried moving a few things around to resit them but same issue

I cannot seem to get the lever centered no matter what I try. I'm wondering if it could be the temperature adjustment but I can't seem to turn the white part of the cartridge. Any ideas what to adjust? Cartridge is a sedal 08SN35S1502 https://youtube.com/shorts/-iT8SW4PMLo

With a double slip joint on a horizontal section, can't some water get trapped in the actual coupler since the tubular pipe is smaller?

That's my problem, the local hardware store doesn't have any slip joint pipe. They only sell the p traps but no extensions. Plenty of 1.25 abs and fittings though. But then I need to go slip joint-->1.25 abs --> then back to slip joint p trap.

Enough to fit a slip nut onto. Looks like 1/16" less than 1.25"

Yeah, sorry I didn't buy the sink from Ikea, just the drawers so need to make my own plumbing route

Because of the way the drawers are designed, you need to put the p trap against the back wall. I have the trap in 1.25" Question is how do I get from the sink tail across to the start of the trap? The p trap pipe is not the same outer diameter as regular 1.25 ABS so I can't seem to find the...

I'm actually not sure there's chlorination since although it's community water, it comes from a well or a few combined together. Can't smell any chlorine anyway. Even when we did have our own well, the water would stay in the issue tank for weeks without chlorination and no-one seemed to bother...

Yeah sorry, I just meant jets in general out of interest. Surely they always create negative pressure? With the cistern, I assume the tank has to be sealed to avoid contamination as well? How do I size the cistern? They only thing using a lot of water for a while is the shower

Since in this case, the jet pump on the house end would be pulling in water from an already pressurised system, how does it avoid creating a vacuum and just sucking in air occasionally especially if there's a leak further upstream?

We have the equivalent of city water at a cottage (it's actually a neighborhood pump and well supplying multiple houses). A leak has developed in one of the underground lines and it's not fixable until spring (ground too frozen to dig up). Water pressure has dropped to around 15-20 so is not...

I want to run a hot line to the backyard but it's basically only going to be used a few times a year to flood the backyard ice rink. For the rest of the year it will be off, essentially a dead end. Is this bad for bacteria? Can I use some sort of shut off to separate the line? It will be around...

If I push the shower button then because it rediverts the leak stops. All the fittings work fine. I'm guessing the plumbers tested it but not sure...