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Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

Bought a new house last year and it came with two probably 80s era Glacier Bay toilets. These are one-piece units without the dual-flush feature. They worked fine for a year, but now one if them is starting to run and I'm having a heck of a time sourcing replacement parts. Of local sources...

I disassembled another fan to see how it was wired, the red wire was not even present in others, they just had the light wire bundled to the hots, I did that and it worked just fine. Thanks for your suggestions.

It's not. The mount is made for one of those ball-type hangers, but this fan just screws into the side of the mount and doesn't use the hanger at all.

And unfortunately, wiring it that way produces zero power, even though I've tested the leads and know they are good. Hmmm.

Yes, that's what the blue wire is for. I already grounded the ceiling ground to the hanger, which had a spot for it, and that's grounded to the box. I think I'm fine, I just wanted to make sure before I went and did anything. Thanks.

Bought a new house 4 months ago and one of the first things I noticed is that the old owners had used a non-ceiling fan rated plastic box, which had broken. So I took down the fan and planned to replace the box and reinstall it relatively quickly. Unfortunately, that didn't happen. Work got...

No clue, haven't tried it, we were just told by the installers not to drive on it. Was just up at the new house and the cap it far enough out of the way where driving around it isn't a big deal, although, as I said, I'd like to put in a metal plate, both for aesthetic purposes and to protect...

Hmm, I'll have to look for that, thanks.

Like I said, all of the ones I've found commercially available for the homeowner are plastic and the metal ones, like they use for street sewers, require a significant depth for the base. Now the plastic ones I've seen claim they're good for upwards of 30 years but I have no experience with it...

No, it isn't on well water, but it is on septic, although whatever chemicals I use, I wasn't planning on flushing down regardless, I'll just suck out with the wet dry vac so it won't affect the septic at all. It's not an old toilet, it's a high efficiency model that's probably no more than 10...

The leach field isn't, just the tank itself. From what I hear from the inspection company, this is ridiculously common, albeit stupid. The tank and system checked out in great condition though.

No clue where to put this, if this is wrong, please move it to the appropriate forum. As I said in another forum, we just bought a house and it's on septic. The geniuses who lived there before decided it would be a great idea to put in a circular driveway right on top of the septic tank and we...

We just bought a house and sometime in the last month, while escrow was going through, one of the contractors or inspectors that we had go through the house used the restroom. Of course, they didn't know that I had shut off the water to that bathroom because it needs to have the flapper...

Good news, it was all brass, the grinder cut through it like butter. The bad news, I was thinking I could modify the mortise lock for a new modern deadbolt but it doesn't look like that will be possible. Luckily, my wife works for a company that manufacturers mortise locks so we're looking for...

I'm thinking grinder because you have more control. If I pull out the reciprocating saw, I'm liable to cause serious damage to the door and frame, they're not exactly precision instruments. I'll see what Lowes has in thin grinder wheels tomorrow.

I've tried to get the deadbolt to slide back and it won't budge. Unfortunately, the innards of the lock are still in place and are too big to slip out of the lock hole unless I chop it up and therefore, I can't get in to see what's blocking the deadbolt. Obviously, I don't care what happens to...

I can get a saw and cut through the deadbolt itself which is what I will probably have to do. Luckily, it's an old lock and the parts are bronze, which ought to be easier than sawing through hardened steel. I just wondered if there was anything easier to try first.

Not quite a remodel question, but this is an ancient lock that's been on my front door forever. Last night, we locked the lock as always and inside, the whole lock exploded. Now the door is locked closed and cannot be opened. I removed the lock from the front and back and inside, the bit that...

That's essentially what I ended up doing, although without the chisel. I split the nut and could unscrew it with repeated hammer blows on a screwdriver shoved into the slot.