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No problem -- thanks!

Yup, I understand that. The trap isn't the issue though. The Sanicompact only accepts a 1-1/4 discharge from a sink, so the whole line from the 1-1/4" trap to the Sanicompact needs to be 1-1/4 vs. your typical 1-1/2 for a bathroom sink. Thus the need for a 1-1/4 tee (which I didn't know was...

So you would use a 1-1/2 tee and then adapt to 1-1/4 coming out of it with what? A 1-1/2x1-1/4 bushing?

No worries, I am using 1-1/4 (except the AAV for the sink, which I don't see as an issue at 42" flood rim height being adapted to the 1-1/2 AAV). Someone above mentioned adapting to 1-1/2 so I was just throwing that out there as another option I had considered. Thanks for the help all -- it...

I did that and Saniflo confirmed the inlet is 1-1/4" and that's what they recommend. They're not the best as far as instructions or installation assistance goes...but I don't know of any equivalents to the Sanicompact (self contained, forced main, no venting required). The only thing I can think...

1-1/4 sanitary tee you mean? I couldn't find them at Lowes, HomeDepot, my local plumbing supply house, or supplyhouse.com. I did another search and it seems like Ace Hardware might have them...that's weird. I guess my answer is tracking one of those down. I'll have to use a 1-1/2" AAV, but I...

Installing a Sanicompact, which has a 1-1/4 connection for a sink. I want to plumb the sink the typical way with a sanitary tee in the wall going up to an AAV. I was able to find a 1-1/4x1-1/4 trap adapter, but I don't think they make 1-1/4 sanitary tees. Any idea on the best way to do this to...

Had a minute to check out the old float and thought this was worth mentioning. The little rubber seat/disc pops out easily and it looks like you could put it in backwards to use the other side if anyone has a similar issue. They don't sell a replacement rubber seat, do they?

I wish we had a 24hr hardware store!

Thanks for the detailed explanation and video! It does seem to be functioning as designed...it doesn't attempt to turn off until the water rushes into the rectangular hole in the side and the water level is at the top of that hole. The little hole/ball at the bottom of the float chamber is in...

Yes, I installed an expansion tank too. It's set for 1-2 psi above what I have the PRV set to. I also have a gauge installed after the PRV to monitor the pressure. After the install I made sure to check the gauge after a shower when all fixtures are closed and the water heater has run for a...

I have a Toto Eco Drake with the Korky style fill valve. Toilet was purchased/installed in 2015. About a year after installation, the fill valve was hissing. I tested to see if water was leaking into the bowl, didn't find anything, and replaced the R528 cap and cleaned the green filter and float...

I went with the 3/4" Watts LF25AUB-Z3 simply because it's what everyone seems to stock around here. I ordered it online, but if it fails I wanted to make sure I can just grab one locally. Installed it over the weekend and so far so good. For ease of replacement, I used a female 3/4" to male 1/2"...

Sorry, I don't have any recommendations. I live fairly close though and I know there are a lot of slab on grade houses around here (probably with frost protected shallow foundations to not have to dig down to 42-48"), so someone must be doing the plumbing. I think now that FPSF foundations are...

Anyone have experience with the Honeywell DS06 PRV? http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-DS06-101-DUT-LF-3-4-Double-Union-NPT-DialSet-Pressure-Regulating-Valve-Lead-Free The fall off seems less than the Watts LF25AUB-Z3. Closer to the really expensive Watts U5B-Z3 models. There's also a 1/4"...

Ah, OK. Sorry -- I did search and found multiple posts about it being OK to put anywhere, but no one seemed to mention that doing so puts a valve between the water heater and expansion tank. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything and that I understood it properly.

Who is Jim? I get what you're saying -- if the supply to the water heater it shut off for an extended period of time, the water heater itself would usually be off for maintenance, etc. and it wouldn't be an issue. The Amtrol documentation says to install it between the water heater and the PRV...

Thanks for the info. The 1/2" PRV and 3/4" PRV from the supplier I use are both the same price. The 1/2" would be nice just because I already have a good stock of 1/2" fittings to install it. Like you said, I'm worried the change from 120 to ~70 is going to be drastic, so I'm definitely willing...

I would like to locate my expansion tank near my water meter instead of near the water heater. I've read it's OK to have it anywhere in the system, but if installing it off the water heater's cold line make sure it's between the shut off valve and water heater so the valve can't isolate it from...

Yeah, I find it's hard to get the Fluidmaster cap off without accidentally adjusting the height. Although maybe my statement isn't accurate because the OEM Toto valve doesn't have height adjustment.