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funny. ill get right on that. (that is no way helpful to my actual question)

can i open the packing nut with full pressure behind it (w the valve closed)? I cant turn off the pressure w/o having the city close the curb-stop, at which point i might as well replace the valve...

are there any tricks or potential (obvious) issues to this other than shutting off the water at the curb-stop, breaking the union, un-threading the gate valve and replacing? The valve wont stop dripping (slightly) and you cant tighten the packing nut any further. The galvanized pipe looks...

could be a globe, but i dont think they'd use those as a shutoff - how do you tell? the galvanized isnt bad. Ironically, someone painted it "corrosion green" at some point and thats flaking off.

I started working in my new (to me) 1894 city house and need to replace the outdoor silcock. There are currently four separate water feeds that come out of the basement floor in various places, with no main shutoff inside (St Louis doesnt meter city water). I would assume there is a utility...

Thanks Terry - makes sense on the double wye/santee the CI has a slight flange, so I didn't think a shielded coupling would fit around the CI. I was just going to pull the ABS out and replace with PVC and a new rubber service weight hub...is that ok?

Finally getting around to this. I am going to just replace all the ABS with PVC, but was hoping for some help on the correct fittings to use. The CI flange/cleanout is about 4' high out of the basement slab...starting there and working upward; Service weight hub 4" CI x 3" PVC (plastic seal...

we have a washer/dryer combo that has to be washer left, dryer right - partially by design and partially because my wife says so. The previous homeowners in this house have a 2" standpipe with a 7' span into a san-tee...i think this is ok? my question, is there any way to include a utility...

Installed a new Kohler toilet in the guest bath the other weekend. I guess its because of the back to back fixtures on the wye in the drain, but each flush now siphons out water from the traps of the other fixtures. 3-4 flushes and there's enough water out of the traps to let sewer gas by in...

Thanks guys for your help. I ended up talking to the local county building code inspector since it seems that St Louis is a little backwards in plumbing code and what flys here would be ridiculous elsewhere. I know a drain vented to the roof would be best, and the ptrap for the washing...

the trap is in the floor, its a standard (at least around here) washing machine standpipe. Local code says you dont need the washing machine to be vented via AAV or roof, so i was curious if you could splice in a sanitary T for the utility sink drain as well.. The main stack, although PVC is...

Wanting to install a utility sink next to my washing machine where the table currently is.... There is currently a 3" CI uncovered washing machine standpipe next to the washing machine that the drain hose just sits into. Can I splice in a Wye or T to drain the sink? Will I need to vent this...

...it seems i was too apprehensive about burning down my house....i got annoyed and sat the torch on it for about 15min and the lead started to drip out... ...now my house smells like burnt oakum...:rolleyes: sure enough, there was a brass sleeve in there that was causing all the problems...

I was sorta thinking the same thing...since im more focused on rebuilding the bath at the moment than just the stack, and the stack seems to be ok, i think id rather just drill out the lead pipe....although in a sick sort of way it seems like a good challenge and sorta fun to replace the whole...

Are the sections of CI shown in the picture just held together by gravity, or will i have to wrestle with those?

So of course nothing goes as planned....the wall of the bathroom comes down after a long fight and the sink drain is lead pipe, leaded to a CI tee within the main stack(lead line going to the left in the pic, near bottom of stack)....original plan is to remove leaded pipe and use dougnut for...

I will be replacing a few of the branch lines this weekend on my home (St Louis, MO) and was curious to know what the reccomendation was for type of copper and diameter? These branch lines will be for outdoor faucets only, and will be tee'd off from a 1" OD main (i beleive it is galvanized?)...