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Looks like Oregon specialty code requires the tank, unless ' designed by registered engineers shall be permitted to use approved pressure relief valves in lieu of expansion tanks pro- vided such relief valves have a maximum pressure relief set- ting of 100 psi (689 kPa) or less' Full text...

Thank you for your responses! I did not realize an expansion tank was required. I'll have to do more reading- Many thanks!

Hello- At some point in history, the local municipality changed it's water sourcing and now my water pressure is quite high (80-90PSI, I believe). This seems to wreak havoc on my toilet and sprinkler valves, and to my understanding is quite a bit higher than it should be by code. The main...

Thank you very much, Terry.

Hello- I've read a lot here about people having trouble installing the donuts because of tightness. I'm a little concerned about the one I installed over looseness; questions are-- 1. how loose can the donut be in the hub before the pipe is inserted? 2. how easy should it be to insert the ABS...

Thank you, HJ.

Not at all. Hah. I must have been pretty tired writing it such that there could be double negatives... instead of just saying 'is this ok to use' I appreciate all of the help and support this forum has given me, mostly through its history-- but also in person.

I'm sorry, HJ.. my poor wording of initial question makes your response hard to understand. NO = no you would not recommend it, or NO= no you would not specifically avoid it (= yes, should be fine) Many thanks!

Not sure what i'm missing here, but posting this specific question to a separate thread... Would people specifically avoid using a 3x3x3x2 ABS sani tee with side inlet, such as this one, with a 3" flush valve toilet? Thank you

OK, i wanted to be sure about side inlet sani tee on the Oregon code. The only mention of 'side inlet' i can find in the 2011 Oregon code is in chapter three, from here: "311.0 Prohibited Fittings and Practices. 311.1 No double hub fitting, single or double tee branch, single or double tapped...

Thank you all for the notes, they help me understand a lot of what is going on. If allowed, I think I am going to go to 3" ABS with a 3x3x3x2 sani-t. This will allow me to drop the closet arm to under the horridly notched joist, which I can then patch. So the overall configuration would...

Thank you all for the responses and explanations! I am on to reading about 'side inlet sanitary tee' that would be 3x3x3x2 to allow me to drop the closet arm to under the floor joist (to patch up the floor joist), and still tie in a 2" Drain (in place of the two 1 1/2's. Tiny house maxed out...

Hello- If i have read everything correctly, including posts on this forum and 'helpful hints' by Bert Polk (noted by Terry Here), the Sani-T is only to be used when going from trap-arm to vertical drain pipe. Where a horizontal branch joins a vertical branch, a combination Wye -1/8 bend...

Thank you for the pointers and help- One other question; I've read it is good to clean up the cast iron with a wire brush before installing the flange. After that, do you lubricate it with anything to help the rubber slide, or to keep it from corroding? I'll have to look more closely at how...

Thank you all for your help!

Hello- I've searched a bit and only found this thread, which is actually a lead closet arm. I have a 4" cast iron closet arm. The flange was far over the surface of the floor, causing leaking issues on the toilet. I'm installing new flooring, underlayment and one layer of subflooring-- and...

First I want to thanks Terry for having this form; it has helped me immensely in the last few months looking up code requirements and learning how to do things such as removal of poured lead seals on cast iron closet flanges and typical heights for stubouts, etc. I am planning on putting ball...