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  1. Mirko

    Carol's Bath: from one popped tile to major makeover :D

    WHEN INSTALLING THE MAT(S): NEVER CUT THE HEATING WIRE! ONLY THE FIBERGLASS MESH CAN BE CUT, NEVER THE HEATING COIL! Because of this the mat should be ordered to size or smaller than the available floor area. If the floor area to be heated is more than 140 sq.ft. more mats can be connected...
  2. Mirko

    Carol's Bath: from one popped tile to major makeover :D

    Caution: don't use the floor heating to speed-up mortar cure time! MAINTAIN THE DISTANCE BETWEEN HEATING COILS!
  3. Mirko

    Carol's Bath: from one popped tile to major makeover :D

    9. Two flex conduits were used: one for the power cold leads, the second for the floor temperature sensor. The sensor conduit was installed on the subfloor some 1" away from the heating element of the mat. 10. When cured the floor will be ready for the tiles.
  4. Mirko

    Carol's Bath: from one popped tile to major makeover :D

    Warm floor 8. 'Cold' power supply leads are run up to the thermostat (sometimes called a 'floorstat')... ...and the whole contraption was turned on for few minutes to see how the bare mat heating element will heat up. The test was OK, the insulation of the heating element was warm to the touch...
  5. Mirko

    Carol's Bath: from one popped tile to major makeover :D

    Warm tiles 6. The mesh of the mat (not the heating wire!) is stapled to the subfloor. Again, take caution to never, ever drive a staple through the heating wire! For the slab subfloor, a hot glue gun will be more appropriate as the staples obviously would not work. Please note the location of...
  6. Mirko

    Carol's Bath: from one popped tile to major makeover :D

    Here is something additional to do or not to do : Installing radiant floor heating in just one afternoon in 10 steps: Plywood was covered by tarpaper first to prevent the subfloor plywood to suck the moisture from the mortar. Metal lath was nailed on top. Both of these steps have nothing to do...
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