Search results

W/ delta, better to be too deep or too shallow (if you gonna mess up). I've installed extension kits when valve too deep or tile changed at last minute but have never had to correct one too shallow. I guess the only solution would be to reset the whole body? Delta give you 1/16 or so to play...

Interesting. Thanks Saw this in the rough in notes: Installation Notes Avoid cross-flow conditions. Do not install shut-off device on either valve outlet. Guess this would mean both and not either on the diversion.

Hello, I am considering using the Kohler K-11748 for a bath remod however I can find very few reviews of this valve. Would like a shower head and rain head available but would like to avoid two separate valve bodys and trim kits. This valve seems to make sense. Any comments would be greatly...

1/2 copper: The flow rate is about 7.5 to 10gpm Plenty for up to 3 low flow shower heads. Restrictions in the heads are 2.5gpm is I remember correctly. Pressure can vary due to many factors. If you have good pressure, you should have plenty of flow for two heads running concurrently.

Wow... Taper jig is exactly what I'll do. (never even thought of that) I made one a few years ago for some small Amish tables I "attempted" to make.. The jig was the easy part.. the legs tapered all over the place... I re-checked the floor and found it to be exactly 1/2 out.. so a few tapers...

I searched this forum b-4 posting but could not find a similar question. My 48X48 3/4" subfloor is out of level 5/8" from right side (exterior wall). The level is consistent for the extire 48" run. I am planning on adding a second layer of 3/4" exterior plywood as additional sub floor support...

Thank you for your time. I'll add the clean out.

Thanks for your help. I think I get it now. Per my recent picture, I can replace the S tee w/ a combo wye and turn it up into the wall for dry vent. This should put the 2ft arm below the floor and good clearance. S trap issue? There is a 3 foot section that is steeper than 1/4 in drop. If I...

I think I could. Confused a bit, would not the vent take off in the picture, if turned up 90 work. (I guess not b/c the T is still horizontal.) If I did use the wye and 45, would the vent be upstream of the wye. In essence, the drain would 180 back to the soil stack? Pardon the confusion. Tx

I guess I could use a TY and bring the vent up past that?

Have you ever used a San T on its back and street 45 rolled to at least 45 (more like 80') as a dryvent for a shower? My problem is when the SanT is on the vertical, my shower arm is above the floor. If I turn it on its side, roll it up 45,(more like 80') I can vent up and into the wall, no...

Thanks for your time.. and great site. Love to learn and do things right... My plumber loves it too b/c he gets paid and I do the work.. ;)

Thanks Terry. This was my concern about a 90. Is the speed a concern if my main line is 50 yrs old but seems to be working fine. We have 25 feet of main line out to the sewer connection at the street. Given the short run and limited use of the bath, might have to try the 90. Guess I could...

Drains the lav, shower and WC. The vertical drop past this section is 10 feet

Hello. I have a master bath drain (shower, lav, WC) turning down into a closet chase. This drain pipe is horizontally off-set from the main sewer stack by about 2.5 feet. (The main stack is positioned tightly in the corner of the closet to maximize usable space.) I was going to 45 it over then...

I just spent a ton of time researching toilet venting. Seems there is just as much support for a vent as there is for no vent. (A real hotly debated issue) I elected to wet vent the drain via a lav wye 7 feet from the flange. The toilet plumbing I removed for this remodel had no vent at all and...

Thanks. I'll find the T. Right now I have a 3x2x3 wye on the stack and was going to turn the shower drain down into the y. Your suggestion would eliminate one fitting and would make more space in the closet. I'm a bit confused, so are you suggesting the design pictured in #9 would be a proper...

Yes, the drops are well w/in 1/8 ft for the WC but the shower Ptrap has some height issues. I'll have to make a larger hole for the shower T to allow the hub up into the sub-floor. The only concern I have is how to keep the WC flange plumb and square to the floor. Will I have enough play in...

Here is a better pic. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OJq3WUQzbHE/UP9YadWu6jI/AAAAAAAA_N0/anWSDnuBfsk/s1108/Main+Plumb.jpg Shower p trap noted Shower / Lav vent through roof noted Lav P trap noted 3" Wye and 90 from WC stack fit and joined to vertical soil stack in chase below floor WC...

After review of IPC and some additional help, I think this lay out would work and meet code. The three inch and two inch join on vertical stack w/ wye. Would this work? Thanks https://plus.google.com/photos/105385845666049078607/albums/5836029767507480577