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I guess I should have gone to the plumbing supply shop and asked if they had any quality stuff. I will say that gluing up the assembly such that everything lines up is a pain.

Here's a photo:

All the parts are schedule 40, solvent welded. I'm hoping that using the schedule 40 will provide a better service life than the slip joint fittings with the gasket. There are fewer failure points (gasket, nut, the thinner tubing, etc.) with the only downside that I can see being you can't take...

I'm trying to make snaking a fast and easy job because the kids that use the bathroom have perfected getting plugs of hair into tub and shower traps. Cleaning them out is at least a 2x per year exercise. I'm amazed that they have any hair left on their heads.

The trap goes to to a T that has straight shot to the basement. In the old setup the vent was connected to a 90 on top of the T. I'm going to use another T instead of the 90 and put a cap there too.

I envisioned using these:

Everything is open and it's not much work. I recall the old tub being a pain to snake so I'm trying to make life easier. I can do this. I was going to cap the Wye with a threaded plug. It looks like, at least in some cases, that the cleanout covers attach to the cleanout plug. Most of those...

I'm prepping a new tub and plan to solvent weld all all the fittings. The trap will be directly under the overflow pipe. I think I can fit a wye in the overflow such that it will end up in the bathroom wall where I will leave an access panel. It seems like this may make cleaning out the trap...

Thanks. I have the flange spacers so now I can do it either way, spacers on the subfloor or on top of tiles. I'll let fear be my guide once I start tiling the floor. We took delivery of the tub(American Standard Princeton). The instructions call for a 13 5/8" high 2x4 string across the back...

I'm going to try these set-rite spacers if a local supply house has them. Otherwise, I'll make one from plywood. I like not having to deal with drilling the tile and I suspect if I have some plumbing issues down the road that life will be a little easier with additional working room the spacer...

Something as simple as this for shims?: [ EDIT ] I also found some iron on rolls of 3/4" birch edging. This seems better since it can be more easily fixed in place (glue not iron :-) and fewer individual pieces would be required because you could just cut long lengths and lay it up as needed...

Thanks for all the info - so the tub goes on the 3/4 subfloor and the 3/8 plywood buts to the the apron right? Thank you, good idea. Is there some reference as to where they should be located in reference to the tub? Maybe I'll just install them as part of the job. It seems like a well anchored...

The floor is ever so slightly out of level. I assume this isn't anything to worry about and even shimming isn't needed. It must be less that 1/8" out over 4' and it's out in the "right" direction. If I put a piece of shingle under the end of the level, the bubble is "off" in the opposite direction.

I'm installing a new bathtub with apron (probably americast), we have a 3/4" subfloor (old tub was installed on that). My plan is to add 3/8" underlayment grade plywood, ditra and tile. As far as I can tell, I should put the tub in and then butt the 3/8 underlayment to to tub apron and...