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Terry as usual you were right. Siding had to be cut. Had a plumber do it today, and solder on a female adapter so that next time the hose bib leaks itll be an easy replacement for me. Now I'll be working on repairing the siding although the hole isnt too big. Thanks again for your thoughts.

so for my original problem I bought a straight hose valve shut off connection that would have worked fine except the hose bibb in the picture must have damaged threads where you would attach the hose as I tried a couple hoses and the valve shut off adapter and all got stuck 1/2 way up the bibb...

thanks tightening did the trick! the first project is over my head time to leave it to the professionals.

Thanks Terry those looks like less piping to work with. On another note, here's one I just changed that already had the threaded adapter....but weird enough its leaking below where the threading connects. I even re-taped it still didnt work. here's a picture, any thoughts?

no reason to cut into the wall. the bibb is connected to the straight pipe coming out of the wall on the outside of the house. It was either soldered on or on a threaded adapter. It appears since it's so tight its soldered. So the bib will have to be removed and a threaded adapter soldered...

I have a hose bib that's leaking when turned off that I need to replace. I used channelocks to hold the pipe in place and a wrench to try and turn the bib counterclockwise to remove it if it was threaded. Did not work. Is there a way to know if its soldered on or threaded? If soldered, how...

HJ, I am not sure whether you are saying it will be just a challenge, or if it will not be possible. I understand this is less than ideal, but in all practicality, moving the drain pipe is out of the picture, and if it can be done, even if not as secure, I'm willing to take the chance...

Hi Terry, thanks for your advice. Do you have a picture by any chance of a setup similar to mine that uses that pipe so I can visualize how it works?

Is there anyway that a professional licensed plumber will be able to make this work? I just redid the kitchen and really dont want to have no disposal. At the same time, the drain pipe is so far away that moving it will tear up a lot of my brand new cabinets.

The outlet based on my measurements will be 1/2" to 1" higher than the inlet to the wall. Hope this will suffice. How would my setup work if I used a horizontal straight discharge pipe in terms of it being able to hook up to the ptrap and not clog up?

I do not know much if anything about plumbing so bare with me please. So I am remodeling my kitchen and I'm on my last step. All of my cabinets are in. Moving the drain pipe is not really an option as the piping is in stucco/cinderblock and has an elbow that runs about 35" or more horizontally...

Thank you, it is not drywall but cement/plaster, and behind it cinderblock. So without cutting out the plaster there is no way to tell how to proceed? Can you give me a rough rough rough estimate of what it may cost me for a plumber to move this correctly, so at least I know what I may be...

Hi All, Before I hire a plumber and pay him $75 for a service call just to tell me what can or cannot be done, please give me some guidance. I am in the process of a kitchen remodel and would like to move my sink setup about 30-40" to the left from the pictures below. Where the sink is now...

Hi All, I am in the process of doing a kitchen renovation, and I would like to re-locate my sink probably about 15-30 inches over. Currently the sink pipes are in the original plaster/cement and contractors are telling me it would cost significant amount of money for them to jack up the...

The drain is hidden and will have to be repositioned. The tub calls for this drain. http://www.us.kohler.com/us/Archer%AE-bath-drain/productDetail/Non-Catalog/426252.htm

First, cement will be poured to be level with the floor. Then the bathtub will be put in from there. Will this still be okay? The type of bathtub that I linked, is is the correct type for my setup? It includes an apron and from the manufacturer it says, "Thank you for your inquiry. This tub is...

So what you are saying is remove the cement board, there should be plenty of room for the 60" tub, install the tub, and then reinstall the cement board. No need to modify anything else? The tub I linked has a integrated tile flange which I believe remember hearing is important since I want tile...

I inherited a somewhat gutted bathroom with a little work done in the home I just moved into. I want to buy a 60" soaking tub. This one...